Coolant boost pump leak - keep it or delete it?

[dbsoundman]

Hi all, I had my coolant system flushed last summer, and figured I'd find some leaks eventually. Sure enough, it looks like I have a leak coming from my electric boost pump (the one you can turn on to make the interior heat up faster). It's not terrible, but I definitely get a drop a day at least.

I'm planning to remove my rear heaters but keep my driver's heater and defrosters. Would it be worthwhile to keep the pump, or should I just take it out when I take out the heaters? Looks like I can use a Gates 28626 elbow to replace it without having to redo the coolant hoses. Wasn't sure if this pump provided any real advantages with the rear heaters removed.

[fo4imtippin]

My bus has a rear heater and no boost pump. I don't think you'll need it since your removing a bunch of hose and heater.

[cadillackid]

in my bus since its a parallel flow system where the main lines are trunks I need the boost pump or I get whimpy flow at my rear heater during idle.. when driving and engine is at RPM I dont need it...



that said, when I broke my water-pump belt.. that heater pump allowed me to keep coolant circulating through my engine and limp off the highway so when it started to leak I put a new one on!!

[dbsoundman]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

in my bus since its a parallel flow system where the main lines are trunks I need the boost pump or I get whimpy flow at my rear heater during idle.. when driving and engine is at RPM I dont need it...



that said, when I broke my water-pump belt.. that heater pump allowed me to keep coolant circulating through my engine and limp off the highway so when it started to leak I put a new one on!!

Yeah, the emergency situation is really the only case I can think of where having one would be advantageous, but since my coolant "loop" will be so much smaller I'm not sure it would make a whole lot of difference anyway.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by dbsoundman

Yeah, the emergency situation is really the only case I can think of where having one would be advantageous, but since my coolant "loop" will be so much smaller I'm not sure it would make a whole lot of difference anyway.

the main water pump will push water through the bus just fine when the RPMs are up.. if you idle it might have somewhat cooler heater air but otherwise you can ditch it

[dbsoundman]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

the main water pump will push water through the bus just fine when the RPMs are up.. if you idle it might have somewhat cooler heater air but otherwise you can ditch it

Thanks, that was my intuition but wanted to make sure.

Now, I have to figure out if I can get this done in the winter in my driveway, or if I want to pay $$$ to the mechanic again. I don't have a way to elevate the front of the bus to "burp" it, and I'm not actually sure how well I can do that in cold weather with a diesel. Initially the job wasn't going to be such a big deal as I was just going to remove the rear heaters, but pulling out the pump will no doubt dump more coolant and require a little more finesse.

[magnakansas]

look up RADIATOR HOSE PINCH OFF PLIERS

you can clamp the those hoses off while you take out the booster pump and insert the elbow fitting and not lose more than a cup of coolant.

william

[dbsoundman]

Originally Posted by magnakansas

look up RADIATOR HOSE PINCH OFF PLIERS

you can clamp the those hoses off while you take out the booster pump and insert the elbow fitting and not lose more than a cup of coolant.

william

I had never heard of these before, they look like they just might save my bacon! Or at least my $$$.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by magnakansas

look up RADIATOR HOSE PINCH OFF PLIERS

you can clamp the those hoses off while you take out the booster pump and insert the elbow fitting and not lose more than a cup of coolant.

william

a short piece of 1 inch radiator hose ( 2 or 3 inches long).. and a pair of vice grips will also pinch off a hose and not damage it.. you slit the 2 or 3 inch piece and then slip it over the heater hose you want to pinch.. vice grips need to be snug but you dont want to honk then down. you dont car if a little coolant is dripping or drizzles out.. wet down the fitting you are going to use for the bypass..



TACbusparts in johnstown ohio sells all kinds of various heater and hose fittings (and new pumps)... more than likely you will want a right angle splice fitting for the simplest and quickest repair / bypass of that bergstrom pump.



I try and work on hoses while the ysare a bit warm.. obviously you dont want hot but warm hoses flex easier and go on / off easier..



dipping a hose in coolant or pouring s little coolant on the outside of a hose makes it cut like butter..

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

if you keep the electric pump then i would think that you could run it to burp air from the system with the radiator cap off and not worry about elevating the front of the bus.
i use a remote pump setup idea kind of like that at work for flushing and purging the air out of solar water/glycol panels.

[cadillackid]

Thats exactly how I have refilled my system when I do work on it.. electric pump on cap off..

[shorthair]

I've done the same thing with a couple pieces of flat bar and a pair of vice grips.

[Jonnie B.]

If you have a front engine and remove the booster pump and rear heaters you will essentially have a box truck setup and should be fine with the stock pump. IF you have a rear engine bus I would recommend keeping the booster pump, I have a re300 and deleted my passenger heaters but replaced all the lines inside the bus and it makes the defroster work quite a bit better for me.
I also had a leaking coolant pump on my bus and I got a replacement from wheeler fleet solutions using the part number the dealer gave me. I could have bought two from wheeler and still had money left over for what international quoted me, and I received a Bergstrom pump.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Jonnie B.

If you have a front engine and remove the booster pump and rear heaters you will essentially have a box truck setup and should be fine with the stock pump. IF you have a rear engine bus I would recommend keeping the booster pump, I have a re300 and deleted my passenger heaters but replaced all the lines inside the bus and it makes the defroster work quite a bit better for me.
I also had a leaking coolant pump on my bus and I got a replacement from wheeler fleet solutions using the part number the dealer gave me. I could have bought two from wheeler and still had money left over for what international quoted me, and I received a Bergstrom pump.

Bergstrom and MP are the most common brands used by OEMs

[Jonnie B.]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

Bergstrom and MP are the most common brands used by OEMs

The one I removed was a bergstrom with an international sticker over it. good stuff.