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Old 09-24-2021, 07:07 AM   #21
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,007
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr4btTahoe View Post
Fuel slosh in these big tanks is normal as most of them aren't baffled or anything. Some aftermarket gauges buffer that a bit. You wouldn't have to replace the sender necessarily... would just need to know the empty and full ohm rating of the sender and match the gauge to the sender.

thats a great idea.. pull the sender out of the tank.. ground the base of it to a known good ground and smoothly (and slowly)move the float up and down and see if the gauge moves smoothly also.. if the gauge or sender is bad then something will go bonkers..


an even better test would be like BT says with a multimeter and watch thew resistance go up and down as you move the float. it should be a very smooth movement and not jumpy..

cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2021, 08:12 PM   #22
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 823
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
Resurrecting this old thread...I finally found the FULL schematics for my bus, so I'm thinking I might actually be able to wire in some of my own analog gauges to bypass the tachometer "module" that currently seems to feed data to all the gauges over some sort of data bus (and of course doesn't work right now).


If I pull out, say, the OEM fuel gauge, remove the wires that go to the current tach/dash module, and run them straight to an aftermarket fuel gauge with the right range set...should that work?
dbsoundman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2021, 08:41 PM   #23
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 819
Year: 1993
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbsoundman View Post
Resurrecting this old thread...I finally found the FULL schematics for my bus, so I'm thinking I might actually be able to wire in some of my own analog gauges to bypass the tachometer "module" that currently seems to feed data to all the gauges over some sort of data bus (and of course doesn't work right now).


If I pull out, say, the OEM fuel gauge, remove the wires that go to the current tach/dash module, and run them straight to an aftermarket fuel gauge with the right range set...should that work?
It'll work fine assuming the gauge and sender ohm ranges match.
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Old 12-20-2021, 05:12 AM   #24
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,007
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbsoundman View Post
Resurrecting this old thread...I finally found the FULL schematics for my bus, so I'm thinking I might actually be able to wire in some of my own analog gauges to bypass the tachometer "module" that currently seems to feed data to all the gauges over some sort of data bus (and of course doesn't work right now).


If I pull out, say, the OEM fuel gauge, remove the wires that go to the current tach/dash module, and run them straight to an aftermarket fuel gauge with the right range set...should that work?



I thought the fuel gauge on the CAT is off of the link and not part of the data.. the oil pressure, tach, temp, speed are all integral to the engine operating.. pull those senders and the engine very well may not run.
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Old 12-20-2021, 06:30 AM   #25
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 823
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I thought the fuel gauge on the CAT is off of the link and not part of the data.. the oil pressure, tach, temp, speed are all integral to the engine operating.. pull those senders and the engine very well may not run.

I’m not talking about pulling any senders, just “tapping” the sender wiring to the dash itself. Currently it all comes into the odometer via a couple multi pin connectors, then the gauges are driven from that odometer module via a 6 pin interface of some sort. I’m thinking that the odometer module is bad, which would explain why two of my gauge backlights never turn off and the battery voltage shown on the odometer module is always low (when it works).

My idea is basically to pull wires from that multi pin connector into the odometer module and use them to run independent gauges.
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