Dt466e running bad

[BusT]

Didn’t find anything still need to do a pin test .
Now I’m pulling codes 626 unexpected reset fault , power or ground issue to ecm
513- injector low side to bank 1 open
514 - low side to bank 2 open
along with the ones from the other day. Noticing a exhaust smell and faint smoke can’t tell the color

[Zork]

Something else to consider... with fuel sitting for so long in a 1/4 full tank and that much crud in the filter(s) you might have clogged fuel injectors. If I were you I would also pull the tank and clean/flush it.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by BusT

Didn’t find anything still need to do a pin test .
Now I’m pulling codes 626 unexpected reset fault , power or ground issue to ecm
513- injector low side to bank 1 open
514 - low side to bank 2 open
along with the ones from the other day. Noticing a exhaust smell and faint smoke can’t tell the color

Have you "Physically" removed and cleaned ALL your ground points?

I know that on my bus, my negative battery cable looked good but when I took it off and checked, there was rust and grime so I shiny cleaned the connector and bus frame, new bolt and then once assembled, rustoleum rusty metal primer on top for future protection.

Your new 626 code would lead me to believe you got dirty connections.

also, when I first got my bus I had an issue with the push button shift panel, it went dark and bus would not start.

I found the problem to be a wire that was corroded on the inside of the connector itself. Pin broke/separated from the wire INSIDE the connector.

A really good way for checking ground continuity is by using an old fashioned ANALOG multiimeter. or there is always the light bulb test too but analog meter is easier.

I would also open up the IDM wiring connectors and visually check all the pins for corrosion.

[PorchDog]

Bad grounds cause all kinds of codes. They are also the cheapest thing to fix-- IF you can find the offending one.

[ewo1]

I found this while searching, it is an easy to do test for the idm.

Disclaimer: I AM NOT a competent diesel mechanic. I learned what I know from the little book that came in the Kracker Jack box! But I also do have a dt466 and things like this interest me and by helping out, I get to learn!

Source: https://thetruckmechanictoolbox.blog...00-dt466e.html


Testing the IDM circuit

The standard test for the IDM circuit is to plug a sealed beam headlight across pins 30 and 87 of the IDM relay socket. I did so and the headlight lit brightly and remained lit for over a minute, so the circuit passed the test.

The relay was also a possibility, so I swapped it with the horn relay and blew the horn several times, including a long blast causing a negative reaction from my shop mates.

Even though the circuit seemed good I had to check the battery box. The Weatherpack connectors to the IDM and ECM are prone to problems in the 4300 model. However, on this truck I had already cut the connectors out of the harness and soldered the wires together in an earlier version of this same issue. The battery cable ends looked OK, but I've been doing this long enough to know that just looking isn't good enough, particularly when you know there is a problem. I took all the ends off the batteries and cleaned them all up, although they appeared good when taken apart.

[BusT]

Originally Posted by Zork

Something else to consider... with fuel sitting for so long in a 1/4 full tank and that much crud in the filter(s) you might have clogged fuel injectors. If I were you I would also pull the tank and clean/flush it.

I thought I should do this and was going to try and run fresh fuel from a.
Can and see if it helps… then u started getting the electrical related codes. I still might try to drain tank and put some kind of strainer ina funnel and see what I catch

[BusT]

Originally Posted by PorchDog

Bad grounds cause all kinds of codes. They are also the cheapest thing to fix-- IF you can find the offending one.

I need to find engine block ground locations . I’m not sure if it’s just because the front engine with dog house model but I can’t see anything

[BusT]

Originally Posted by ewo1

Have you "Physically" removed and cleaned ALL your ground points?

I know that on my bus, my negative battery cable looked good but when I took it off and checked, there was rust and grime so I shiny cleaned the connector and bus frame, new bolt and then once assembled, rustoleum rusty metal primer on top for future protection.

Your new 626 code would lead me to believe you got dirty connections.

also, when I first got my bus I had an issue with the push button shift panel, it went dark and bus would not start.

I found the problem to be a wire that was corroded on the inside of the connector itself. Pin broke/separated from the wire INSIDE the connector.

A really good way for checking ground continuity is by using an old fashioned ANALOG multiimeter. or there is always the light bulb test too but analog meter is easier.

I would also open up the IDM wiring connectors and visually check all the pins for corrosion.

Ecm pin looks dirty and might get some Electra clean and diametric grease in it and reinstall once it’s cleaned up
There was also rodent crap all sandwiched between the pins

[Zork]

Originally Posted by BusT

Ecm pin looks dirty and might get some Electra clean and diametric grease in it...

You're going to get some funny looks at the store. I suggest you ask for "dielectric" grease.

[cadillackid]

disconnect your bus batteries. . use some electronics cleaner on the cables and the ECM pins themselves.. then apply dieletric grease and put the connectors back on.. i'd be inclined to check the valve cover Harness as well if you can get to it..

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by BusT

Ecm pin looks dirty and might get some Electra clean and diametric grease in it and reinstall once it’s cleaned up
There was also rodent crap all sandwiched between the pins

That is one dirty connector!

Is it possible to open up the backside of the harness connector for inspection & cleaning?

Also, I know it might not sound like any fun, but checking the pins/connectors on the injectors themselves too... yeah ..no fun indeed!

[Booyah45828]

Absolutely clean that up. As others have said, dielectric grease.

Should have disconnected the battery before you removed the connector from the ecm. Definitely disconnect it before spraying any cleaner in there, you can easily short stuff out by not.

You can remove the pins from the connector. But it really won't get you any more access inside the pin. Some good electronics cleaner should blast that crud out, only reason I'd pull the pins from the connector would be to replace them due to corrosion or burning.

If you're doing the ecm connector, you might as well check the valve cover and the rest of the harness.

[Zork]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Absolutely clean that up. As others have said, dielectric grease.

Should have disconnected the battery before you removed the connector from the ecm. Definitely disconnect it before spraying any cleaner in there, you can easily short stuff out by not.

You can remove the pins from the connector. But it really won't get you any more access inside the pin. Some good electronics cleaner should blast that crud out, only reason I'd pull the pins from the connector would be to replace them due to corrosion or burning.

If you're doing the ecm connector, you might as well check the valve cover and the rest of the harness.

And old tooth brush works wonders to remove any stubborn crud.

[BusT]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Absolutely clean that up. As others have said, dielectric grease.

Should have disconnected the battery before you removed the connector from the ecm. Definitely disconnect it before spraying any cleaner in there, you can easily short stuff out by not.

You can remove the pins from the connector. But it really won't get you any more access inside the pin. Some good electronics cleaner should blast that crud out, only reason I'd pull the pins from the connector would be to replace them due to corrosion or burning.

If you're doing the ecm connector, you might as well check the valve cover and the rest of the harness.

I have a battery shutoff switch I engaged before taking apart . So should be good there and didn’t see anything over 1v when probing around after.
The valve cover pin going into the block didn’t loon to bad but I will probalay clean . Also didn’t see a lot of oil in there but there was some

[BusT]

Originally Posted by Zork

And old tooth brush works wonders to remove any stubborn crud.

Exactly what I was using hahah and yeah after ward put some of that “diametric” grease lol

[BusT]

Originally Posted by ewo1

That is one dirty connector!

Is it possible to open up the backside of the harness connector for inspection & cleaning?

Also, I know it might not sound like any fun, but checking the pins/connectors on the injectors themselves too... yeah ..no fun indeed!

Are you saying pull the valve cover to check injectors :0
I think there’s a heat shield that those computers were bolted onto . I might need to remove that and check the wiring behind there

[BusT]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

disconnect your bus batteries. . use some electronics cleaner on the cables and the ECM pins themselves.. then apply dieletric grease and put the connectors back on.. i'd be inclined to check the valve cover Harness as well if you can get to it..

That valve cover harness was a round pin with some purple wires . Think I checked the right one ? Waiting on some Amazon ores for the cleaner .
Have you heard good things about that scanner guage D

[cadillackid]

the scan Gauge D is OK but its boring with a sidelit tiny LCD display..



I have the original Scangauge II and it works but seems harder to read.. I like the nodern stuff on tablets and such

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by BusT

Are you saying pull the valve cover to check injectors :0
I think there’s a heat shield that those computers were bolted onto . I might need to remove that and check the wiring behind there

I was thinking, oh all else is being physically inspected then it might be a good idea to look at the actual connectors, at the injectors themselves… you never know …???

[jazty]

I have a good friend who is a full-time diesel mechanic for OTR and mining operations. He sees lots of DT466e.


His first advice for anything related to injector codes: "Follow that damn purple wire!"

And don't just look at it, but a load on one end (like a halogen headlight bulb) and check the voltage drop. He says he's helped a whack load of 466s by replacing that one wire.



If you're still having problems after cleaning up the connector it might be worth looking into