Filters - Diesel Engine, Tranny, Coolant, etc...

Simplicity · 02-06-2021, 05:24 PM

I'm probably going to start some mud slinging here, but what the heck.

I'm sourcing filters for my T444E engine and MT643 tranny. I've been searching for one brand that carries all the filters for the bus, but, no luck.

In that search, I've also tried to determine which brands rate well. I'm not going to go broke, but I also want to protect my investment.

So, I'm soliciting "opinions", and hopefully some facts, about filter brands.

Currently, I've got:
Fleetguard for the fuel, engine oil and transmission.
Hastings for air and power steering.
Fram for coolant, yet looking at Baldwin and Donaldson too.

I know Wix is apparently a popular name, and Fram has had issues.

The plan is to keep maintenance frequent, so even if I end up using a not so great filter for some reason, it won't be for long.

Let the feedback fly!

ISAF2009 · 02-07-2021, 10:07 AM

Buy the cheapest filters you can and change them often.

Booyah45828 · 02-08-2021, 09:19 AM

We just went over all that recently in this thread HERE.

Take your current filter numbers, punch them into any of the interchanges available, and then find the best deal on said numbers.

We use napa filters, made by wix, at the shop. I have positive reviews of hastings/baldwin filters as well. Fleetguard and donaldson are also fine manufacturers. You can't go wrong with using any of the above for filters.

Every one of your filters should be available from all of the aforementioned suppliers, just don't expect to find the correct #'s by punching in your bus's year/make/model. Take the current filter numbers and put them through the respective manufacturer's interchange.

Like most, I avoid fram, even though they have a factory half an hour from me. They had issues a few years ago where the filter media would disintegrate during operation. They've since caught a lot of bad publicity because of that, and that's rightly so in my eyes.

EastCoastCB · 02-08-2021, 11:13 AM

I run Cat, Wix, or Fleetguard.

s2mikon · 02-08-2021, 11:46 AM

Wix makes NAPA and Carquest. Donaldson, Fleetguard, Baldwin and of course OEM are all good filters. I avoid Fram. Wix was bought out some years ago by Mann and Hummel, the OEM for Mercedes and Volvo. We may begin seeing them on the shelves of parts houses soon. Who knows? Take your numbers and cross them over on a chart and go shopping. If you save 2 dollars on Wix vs Baldwin go Wix. You may save enough at filter change time to buy a Burger and fries.

Johnny Mullet · 02-08-2021, 05:51 PM

I replaced all the filters on my T444E with Baldwin. Been using them for years as a diesel tech and never had an issue.

Oil - B7039
Fuel - PF7678
Air - RS2863
Trans- BT839-10
Coolant - BW5071

Simplicity · 02-10-2021, 08:19 PM

Excellent. Seems we have consensus. I ended up going with Hasting. I used GoVets.com, as all their stuff includes free shipping and their prices have so far been equal or lower than competitors.

Simplicity · 02-10-2021, 08:20 PM

Sorry I repeated a thread. I did search first, but came up empty.

Mountain Gnome · 02-10-2021, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Like most, I avoid fram, even though they have a factory half an hour from me. They had issues a few years ago where the filter media would disintegrate during operation. They've since caught a lot of bad publicity because of that, and that's rightly so in my eyes.

I never heard about this issue with Fram.

I always used Fram Tough Guard (and only Tough Guard) because they advertised in the upper 90% for particulate filtration, the highest I saw, and if I remember correctly, the particulate size compared to other filters (NAPA Gold, I think it was). I used NAPA Gold otherwise.
All my Nissan and Toyota motors stayed clean between oil changes. No carbon buildup under the valve-covers. The oil never got black; I changed it every 3K-5K miles. These were gasoline motors, though, not diesel.

Do you (or anyone) know if this was a "regular" Fram paper-filter that failed? I think the Tough Guards had glass-fiber-reinforced filters (or something synthetic like that). I drain all my filters upside-down for a few months, then put them in a vice and take a saw-zaw and cut them in half. I can see the carbon build-up inside, to keep an eye on my trucks' motors; but I also do it to recycle the metal. As a mobile mechanic, I tried to avoid oil-change services whenever possible (low pay for too much time, plus then I have to recycle the oil, which I could legally only do for free as a citizen, not a business, but ...), but I also did the same with my clients' oil filters. I was always impressed by the better quality of Fram filters over others (not to compare them with Wix or Baldwin) except the NAPA Gold filters (which are, admittedly Wix); internal plastic pieces and spring pressure-release valves and back-flow "valves" and the filter material itself were all better.

One thing for sure that I saw. DO NOT use the filters, or the "standard" oil (generally single-weight non-detergent from a big drum), that the quick-change-oil companies use. Bring your own filter, if you need them to do it, and either also your own oil, or pay for their "premium" oil - the stuff you can find at Wally-World in bottles. I did that once when on the road since there was little options for recycling the old oil, and they just charged me the same $20. The one other time I paid for an oil change, the guy was under the car (in the "pit") for way too long; I made an excuse and went down there, and he said "I can't get your filter off" as he twisted it clockwise. I said "let me try" and as he turned his back for a second, I twisted it off with my hand - counterclockwise. I just let him think I was a Hercules-Gnome. Change your own oil. They hire anyone who can breathe for those jobs.

ISAF2009 · 02-11-2021, 12:14 AM

Rewind 4 years ago.... I was breaking in a cam on a mutant Ford 390 I built and installed in my 1972 Highboy. The oil filter on it was the orange can of death but I didn’t care because it was only going to remain installed for a day. I went to relieve myself and while I was in the restroom I heard the engine shut off. Thank god my buddy saw the massive oil leak and shut the truck off. I asked what happened and he said it was double gasketed; I said that was impossible because the motor was 10 minutes old.
The crimp at the base of the can had failed and almost cost me that motor. I will not run Fram for 1 minute not ever. I have seen staples ruin cranks, disintegrated filter media, I have seen bypass and anti drainback valves fail, that hot glue they use on the filter media ends up everywhere.

ISAF2009 · 02-11-2021, 12:28 AM

I don’t really care about oil or filter brands, however I generally avoid filters made in china (STP), and the orange can of death. I don’t use air filters with a foam sponge layer or “permanent” air filters (k&n). If I was forced to pick a favorite brand It would be either Donaldson or Fleetgard.

Booyah45828 · 02-11-2021, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome

I never heard about this issue with Fram.

I always used Fram Tough Guard (and only Tough Guard) because they advertised in the upper 90% for particulate filtration, the highest I saw, and if I remember correctly, the particulate size compared to other filters (NAPA Gold, I think it was). I used NAPA Gold otherwise.
All my Nissan and Toyota motors stayed clean between oil changes. No carbon buildup under the valve-covers. The oil never got black; I changed it every 3K-5K miles. These were gasoline motors, though, not diesel.

Do you (or anyone) know if this was a "regular" Fram paper-filter that failed? I think the Tough Guards had glass-fiber-reinforced filters (or something synthetic like that). I drain all my filters upside-down for a few months, then put them in a vice and take a saw-zaw and cut them in half. I can see the carbon build-up inside, to keep an eye on my trucks' motors; but I also do it to recycle the metal. As a mobile mechanic, I tried to avoid oil-change services whenever possible (low pay for too much time, plus then I have to recycle the oil, which I could legally only do for free as a citizen, not a business, but ...), but I also did the same with my clients' oil filters. I was always impressed by the better quality of Fram filters over others (not to compare them with Wix or Baldwin) except the NAPA Gold filters (which are, admittedly Wix); internal plastic pieces and spring pressure-release valves and back-flow "valves" and the filter material itself were all better.

One thing for sure that I saw. DO NOT use the filters, or the "standard" oil (generally single-weight non-detergent from a big drum), that the quick-change-oil companies use. Bring your own filter, if you need them to do it, and either also your own oil, or pay for their "premium" oil - the stuff you can find at Wally-World in bottles. I did that once when on the road since there was little options for recycling the old oil, and they just charged me the same $20. The one other time I paid for an oil change, the guy was under the car (in the "pit") for way too long; I made an excuse and went down there, and he said "I can't get your filter off" as he twisted it clockwise. I said "let me try" and as he turned his back for a second, I twisted it off with my hand - counterclockwise. I just let him think I was a Hercules-Gnome. Change your own oil. They hire anyone who can breathe for those jobs.

I'm kind of surprised you haven't heard about this. I couldn't tell you the exact line of filters that it was from fram, but it was an orange canned fram filter.

There were several tsb's put out on it by a multitude of different oem's. They were having warranty returns, and upon disassembly, found the filter media stuck in the various oil passages of the engine, causing starvation and bearing failure. One of those bulletins(from gm I believe) showed pictures of what they were describing, the media in the oil passages, failed bearings, and a blurred orange oil filter with bed liner on the end.

So no, they didn't blame fram itself, but the filter used was obvious.

I know many DIY guys who love fram filters. They fall in love with the grip surface on the end and some even have a hex welded to the bottom. But after the wave of bulletins, and people with new vehicles getting shafted on their engine warranty, I'm not taking that chance.

s2mikon · 02-11-2021, 09:06 AM

Volvo cars had a problem with them over centering the stamped metal bypass spring and the filter would no longer function. It was in bypass mode all the time. I then bought a Cat oil filter cutter and began doing post mortems on oil filters. Fram was the worst. Paper end plates hot glued together. Just crap. This was in the early 80's. They may be better now. I haven't used one since.

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