Grid Heater “Killer Bolt” issues?

[lcm0027]

2008 bluebird 6.7 Cummings. 99k miles.

Started bus up the other morning and a wire which I believe is the grid heater wire started melting and smoking. Turned engine off immediately and upon further inspection noticed the wire was heavily corroded.

Does anyone else run with this disconnected from that relay/solenoid that it’s running from? Can I just disconnect the negative/ground wire that goes to that relay to stop the current to the grid heater to avoid this arcing and melting. I’ve read this bolt can melt into the intake and destroy the engine. I live in Alabama and it’s generally above 30 degrees here.

Should I replace this grid heater or do the delete I have also read about. I can’t find much info on this from the bus world.

Any help is appreciated.

[Rwnielsen]

This is just an opinion but...if that wire got hot enough to melt the insulation it's caused by a loose connection. Either the nut was not tight or the crimped connector is failing (or both). We're I you, I'd disconnect the batteries then remove that wire and clean the terminal with a brass or stainless tooth brush and some contact cleaner (or brake cleaner). Carefully check the connector on the wire and replace it if it's not a solid connection. Ideally you would replace that section of wire. If you can't replace it, a few wraps of electrical tape or heat shrink will suffice. Tighten everything back down and reconnect your batteries.
Judging by the solenoid and wire size, a lot of current flows through that wire...loose and/or crappy connections will fail.

[lcm0027]

It’s a 2ga wire going to a believe the grid heater. 200something amps runs threw it. I don’t believe the connection can be repaired. I think I have to replace this whole component?

[Rwnielsen]

Originally Posted by lcm0027

It’s a 2ga wire going to a believe the grid heater. 200something amps runs threw it. I don’t believe the connection can be repaired. I think I have to replace this whole component?

Check the solenoid for heat damage at the terminal, you might get away with just repairing the wire. You can get a solenoid switch rated at the correct amperage aftermarket and save money if it needs to be replaced, there's nothing too terribly special about them.

[DoubleO7]

Take burnt cable off.
Replace lug if needed or the entire cable.
Replace solenoid if the connection at the burnt point was tight and not obviously the fault of the cable or lug.
The solenoid can be had for less than $50.

[lcm0027]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Turns out it was the air intake manifold intake cover. I have parts ordered this weekend and will post the full write up and video.