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Old 03-05-2018, 03:40 PM   #1
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kingpin locking pin replacement

Hi guys,started to change calipers and didnt knew how to take it apart from wheel and somehow unbolted(found out its Kingpin) kingpin locking bolt-pin.
broke threaded part and cant smack out other side.it is quiet tight.but i will figure it out.where do i get similar to lock it up. sets that include pin for my f super duty 97 doesnt look similar.
is it safe to drive with half of that bolt ?
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Old 03-05-2018, 03:44 PM   #2
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:54 PM   #3
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All of the king pin retaining pins I have seen were tapered. You have to drive it out from the side the nut was on.
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Old 03-05-2018, 06:23 PM   #4
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somewhereinusa got it. It's a tapered bolt that locks against the pin and is pulled tight by the nut. They should hammer out easily with a drift punch. However, the last ones I did needed to be drilled out they were in there that tight.
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
All of the king pin retaining pins I have seen were tapered. You have to drive it out from the side the nut was on.
If they're anything like the tapered cotters used on bicycles with traditional European-style cottered cranks, be very careful before attacking them with a BFH. The end nut should only be used to secure them after they've been pressed into place, never hammered - if the nut is used to draw them on, even with the taper lubed with a thin smear of grease or anti-sieze, it will probably strip or snap off. Likewise, when removing them they should either be pressed out, or hammered only against a junk nut that should be lightly on the thread to prevent buggering up the threadform or mushrooming the end. There's a subtle art to dealing with these tapered cotters: too much brute force damages them, but too little does nothing. I use plenty of penetrating oil over several days, plus heat to expand whatever they're in, plus plenty of colorful language involving various religious entities and their maternal ancestry! No fun.

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Old 03-16-2018, 12:46 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
If they're anything like the tapered cotters used on bicycles with traditional European-style cottered cranks, be very careful before attacking them with a BFH. The end nut should only be used to secure them after they've been pressed into place, never hammered - if the nut is used to draw them on, even with the taper lubed with a thin smear of grease or anti-sieze, it will probably strip or snap off. Likewise, when removing them they should either be pressed out, or hammered only against a junk nut that should be lightly on the thread to prevent buggering up the threadform or mushrooming the end. There's a subtle art to dealing with these tapered cotters: too much brute force damages them, but too little does nothing. I use plenty of penetrating oil over several days, plus heat to expand whatever they're in, plus plenty of colorful language involving various religious entities and their maternal ancestry! No fun.

John
1 punch with 8lb bfh and its popped out.and 8grade bolt instead old one.cant find that pin online,only sets.Thank u guyz
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Old 03-16-2018, 02:40 PM   #7
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No, No, No, No, NO!

It has to be the correct tapered pin in order to lock the kingpin in the bore. A bolt, no matter the grade or size will work. Please do this right.
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:12 PM   #8
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No, No, No, No, NO!

It has to be the correct tapered pin in order to lock the kingpin in the bore. A bolt, no matter the grade or size will work. Please do this right.
what possibly could happen ?i dont want to buy whole set for hundred bucks to replace 1 small pin.
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:23 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by KGZ91 View Post
what possibly could happen ?i dont want to buy whole set for hundred bucks to replace 1 small pin.
Three things can happen:

1. Nothing much

2. Excessive and fast wear causing $700 damage to parts.

3. The pin shears, the kingpin dislocates and the wheel falls off.

Do not discount #3, I have seen it happen.
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:58 PM   #10
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You'll ruin the hole in the axle, requiring either

A) Axle surgeons to fix what you have = $$
B) The replacement of the entire axle = $$$$

Either choice is going to require you to buy a new king pin kit anyways. So For 100 bucks, I don't even know why it's even an option for you.

And that's under the assumption that the king pin doesn't fall completely out of the axle altogether causing you to lose the entire wheel, hub, knuckle assembly going down the road taking out god knows what in the process.

If you're that hard up for cash, go to the local truck shop and see if they have one to give you that will work. If you're flat broke, just buy the kit off amazon, use what you need, and return the rest. But using a bolt in place of it shouldn't be an option.

There's certain **** you can skimp on. Then there's suspension and braking components where it shouldn't even be questioned.
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Old 03-16-2018, 05:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
Three things can happen:

1. Nothing much

2. Excessive and fast wear causing $700 damage to parts.

3. The pin shears, the kingpin dislocates and the wheel falls off.

Do not discount #3, I have seen it happen.
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Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
You'll ruin the hole in the axle, requiring either

A) Axle surgeons to fix what you have = $$
B) The replacement of the entire axle = $$$$

Either choice is going to require you to buy a new king pin kit anyways. So For 100 bucks, I don't even know why it's even an option for you.

And that's under the assumption that the king pin doesn't fall completely out of the axle altogether causing you to lose the entire wheel, hub, knuckle assembly going down the road taking out god knows what in the process.

If you're that hard up for cash, go to the local truck shop and see if they have one to give you that will work. If you're flat broke, just buy the kit off amazon, use what you need, and return the rest. But using a bolt in place of it shouldn't be an option.

There's certain **** you can skimp on. Then there's suspension and braking components where it shouldn't even be questioned.
ok i got it. thanks guys.cash is out of question.just didnt want to spend 100 when i can get bolt for 1.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:26 PM   #12
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Hey guys,what it could be with brake system,changed calipers pads,standing still when pressing pedal makes slight vibration in foot and weird noise.not hissing.comes from pulley belt area.is that some kind of pump ?
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:58 PM   #13
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Possibly a hydraulic brake booster, if you have one. Was the noise and feel there before?
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:01 PM   #14
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Possibly a hydraulic brake booster, if you have one. Was the noise and feel there before?
I think so, f suepr duty 97 7.3 .as online says it has brake booster.ill lookup right now symptoms
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Old 12-30-2018, 02:31 PM   #15
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Used grade 8 bolt ,still tight,no changes after ~10k miles this year.
As per booster,havent changed brakes work good
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:33 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by KGZ91 View Post
Used grade 8 bolt ,still tight,no changes after ~10k miles this year.

Man, you really need to get that fixed properly. Everything will hold tight... until it doesn't. Who knows - it might last for the life of the vehicle, or it might fail catastrophically tomorrow.
A bolt is simply incorrect for securing that kingpin. It requires a tapered pin to work safely and correctly.
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:42 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Man, you really need to get that fixed properly. Everything will hold tight... until it doesn't. Who knows - it might last for the life of the vehicle, or it might fail catastrophically tomorrow.
A bolt is simply incorrect for securing that kingpin. It requires a tapered pin to work safely and correctly.



Would this suit an emergency repair on the road jazty?
Grade 8 bolts are strong, maybe the best for strength.


I think there would be some slop in that barrel for the tapered pin, The bolt would not allow the same pressure as the drive bolt, which fills the shape of the barrel. I think that would work in a pinch to get somewhere but quite noticeable in the steering feel.

Reminds me time to check mine again soon,


Happy New Year,


John
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:15 PM   #18
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Would this suit an emergency repair on the road jazty?
Grade 8 bolts are strong, maybe the best for strength.
If a tapered locking pin fell out of one of my kingpins I wouldn't be terribly concerned about driving it to the parts store as is, but I would fix it as soon as possible. The kingpins are held in place from falling out entirely from the top and bottom plates. The problem is that the kingpins are expected to be held tightly in place on the axle and rotate against greased bushings in the knuckle (side note: grease them regularly). Without locking the kingpin in place it can now rotate against the ungreased axle and rapidly wear. You can ruin both the axle and kingpin that way.

A bolt will not lock the kingpin in place. It provides all clamping force (which is not useful in this application) and zero perpendicular force. A well sized bolt will keep the kingpin from completely rotating, but it can still shift enough to wear the axle. I mean, if a wedge some how fell out (very unlikely), then sure, toss a bolt in for extra peace of mind, but fix it properly as soon as possible. Heavy duty truck shops should have the wedges for cheap.



Let's all be safe...
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:38 PM   #19
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Thanks for the explanation, haven't been down that road yet. Heard say mine were good when purchased. How often should they be inspected though?
Thanks



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Old 01-02-2019, 09:26 AM   #20
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Why did I even bother.
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