Lil’Bus needs help. Engine cranking hardly, no start ... :’( - Page 3

M@tt · 11-11-2020, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON

Different adapters serve different protocols, and you need to find out which protocol your 02 PowerStroke engine management system uses. I'll put in a call to the local dealer here and see what I can find out.

Thanks Cheese, i’ll try figuring that for sure. The connexion was made, though ECU data could probably be better.

Happy though Torque told me starter barely bring 100 rpm to crank with. Tried bench testing, both solenoid and rotor ohm out 0.03, so im interpreting starter being okay.

Glow plug relay ?? Tested out very fine 6 months ago.

Quote:

Originally Posted by joeblack5

Are you using group 65 batteries? And two of them.? Do you have aaa.

[...]

I would not use ether unless you know for sure that you flow plugs are broken and you really need to get of the railroad tracks.

Thank you Joe & Numble,

Two 67 grp batteries brand new from yesterday. 850amp cold start .. :/

Not a big difference. Really sounds like something is draining power like a MF when i crank.

Peace to all of you & your engines

M@tt · 11-11-2020, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coffee Bean

Hi, For feature info, should you or other readers need to use a starting fluid, Try using WD-40 instead.
Yes WD-40 Liquid Wrench works very well as a starting fluid!

Enjoy your freedom while you still can!
" Steve The Coffee Bean Junkie "

Thanks !

Read about that earlier, liked the idea bot not sure how is the right method to it .

Any suggestions are super very welcome !

CHEESE_WAGON · 11-11-2020, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M@tt

Happy though Torque told me starter barely bring 100 rpm to crank with. Tried bench testing, both solenoid and rotor ohm out 0.03, so im interpreting starter being okay.

100 rpm cranking is not 160. It's a 38% difference. You'd be amazed what a difference that makes... 112-125 is considered slow cranking with this engine from what I've read. As I said, cranking speed and fuel pressure are critical in starting a diesel. Beginning to sound as though you need a starter.

Also do not recommend using any kind of starting fluid unless absolutely necessary, as it can cause problems with glow plugs and other starting assistance devices such as heater grids. It can also make the engine completely dependent on it to where it will not start without it, and that is not a good thing.

M@tt · 11-11-2020, 08:41 PM

Is there a way to know for sure the starter is the cause of so low RPM ?

Both solenoid & rotor ohm out at 0.03 .. :/

Tried them two days ago on a weak battery, popped and spinned right out !

WD40 has been the wisest recommendation i feel for .. but rather wait and believe my problem is somewhere i can solve.

joeblack5 · 11-11-2020, 09:18 PM

Not sure what kind of equipment you have to measure the resistance but in these amp ranges and super low resistance you would need a laboratory setup to get acceptable result.. do you have by any chance a seized belt / pulley that slows the engine down?
You can measure the voltage at the battery terminals during starting.. that would say something about the battery and or starter. The next on would be the voltage on the starter motor it self.. that is beyond the solenoid. If that voltage is much lower then the battery terminal voltage measured before then something gets lost in the wire and solenoid contacts.

So for these measurement crank only long enough to take the measurement beyond that it only drains the battery and puts wear on your starter.

Good luck
Johan

BeNimble · 11-11-2020, 10:07 PM

I bought a 'won't run' car super cheap that had a seized a/c pulley, and would not turn over. Just removed the belt and car started and ran great.
I've also had a starter (fresh 'rebuilt' one from autozone) that just would not turn over the engine, bench tested good, but with a load was bad. was worse than the one it replaced.
Also had bad grounds/connections on cables that would turn over slowly. Usually can tell because they will get hot from too much resistance.

CHEESE_WAGON · 11-12-2020, 04:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeNimble

I bought a 'won't run' car super cheap that had a seized a/c pulley, and would not turn over. Just removed the belt and car started and ran great.
I've also had a starter (fresh 'rebuilt' one from autozone) that just would not turn over the engine, bench tested good, but with a load was bad. was worse than the one it replaced.

/\ THIS...

I had a car raising all kinds of hell. I knew the A/C compressor hub was going bad. Believe it or not, the damned thing seized up at the auto parts store while they were telling me the price for the compressor I couldn't afford at the time. Came out and it would not crank. Pulled the belt and it fired right up and ran quiet as the grave. Since I couldn't afford the compressor, a shorter belt was a temporary fix that became a permanent solution.

I still think the starter is the OP's problem here, given the stated cranking speed. Weak batteries can and will fry starter motor windings, as can loose or corroded connections.

cadillackid · 11-12-2020, 06:44 AM

great idea to pull the belt and try cranking.. the idler pulleys on the 7.3 are known to seize up (dont ask me how I know).. I hadnt thought of the belt train being a source of slow cranking but thats a great idea to pull the belt at the engine pulley and see if she fires up or at least cranks faster.

M@tt · 11-12-2020, 11:16 AM

Thank you all, it would be hard to keep my head strait without you people, or have gotten this far to be able to brake down here ;)

Going to look at all those pulleys and crank with out the belt as soon as my batteries come back from charge.

Will keep in touch.

Thanks again !

M@tt · 11-13-2020, 09:22 AM

The alternator was totally seized up !!!!

Bought new one at part store, got every thing back together with the charged up new batteries, and she fired strait up !!!

8 days of head bump, 2 hour fix ;)

Cheers to you all !!!!

Thank you infinitely Skoolies !