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Old 12-16-2020, 06:48 PM   #1
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Join Date: Dec 2020
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Unhappy WILL BE IMPOUNDED HELP!!! My mechanic clip the wire now Mable is dead

Let me introduce myself Iím Claudine. I bought 83 Carpenter 37,000 original miles. What is told that it was slightly overheating prior to purchase. After I purchased it went to go get it but wouldnít start. Figured dead battery got a new battery stolen start. Previous owner cleaned all my ground she started. as I drove her home she overheated I subsequently towed. $1200 later I was finally able to terret apart see what was wrong. When I got it home I decrease the motor for the mechanic that would be rebuilding it to have a clean area. Drove it to the gas station wouldnít start. After following all my wires I found a green wire unplugged. I was easily able to see that it plugged into the side of the motor into a round area. I put my finger in there and pulled out a broken black piece that obviously the metal male connector of the wire slipped into. Put that wire in there but started right up. Brought it home Next day has mechanic start to rebuild. Thought it was going to be a sleeve however it was only the head gasket and piston number four. Everything else looked fine. However allegedly the machine shop had to shave a lot off the head. Finally got the motor back together weeks later got a love the mechanic. He put the key in the ignition there was a strange clicking noise never heard it before. He sat there with his meter moving wires off of my cell annoyed which I had also replaced when I replace the battery. he started moving all sorts of wires around I couldnít keep up off of the solenoid. Came back from the restroom saw him clipping a green wire. The wire that went into the side of my motor Iím assuming is that wire. He tried saying it was pretty thermostat relay. Itís on the side of the motor though. Iím thinking that round thing with the black plastic broken piece that the wire originally went into could possibly be IPS. When I called the mechanic tell him I have to move the bus he told me to get a long screwdriver and push down on this lever at the bottom of my motor with a really long screwdriver that controls my fuel injection apparently. It was round and it had what could be described as an axle boot on the top. He told me to push it down with a lover. Luckily it didnít come to that which is whatís leading me to believe that it could be an IPS. However all the pictures Iím looking at none of them look like the original piece that came off the bus. Please help me. My neighbor and I are arguing bad and if I donít get my best to be able to move daily Iím going to lose my Mabel because my mechanic is a dick.
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Old 12-16-2020, 10:14 PM   #2
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Year: 1998
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Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
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No, *really!*
Paragraph breaks are REALLY your friend when gainfully gadding gayly in a generally gamboling gambit, in a generously generic garrulous gadabout.
good gosh and good golly...
(Otherwise, a wealth of well-wishes, and wee-peated welcomes to the self-commitment ward on the asylum, Claudine)
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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Old 12-17-2020, 03:27 AM   #3
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Year: 1998
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Chassis: TC1000, 40' MPV
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That wire in your hand looks like it goes to that broken plug in another picture. you need to get that fixed, I believe it goes to your alternator
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Old 12-17-2020, 08:24 AM   #4
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I'm just guessing here, had a lot of trouble trying to figure out what you were saying.
The round "thing" may be the temperature sending unit. If it is, it won't have anything to do with starting. Was the engine really overheating or did the gauge say so? If that is the temp sensor wire and it grounded, it would give you an overtemp reading.
Generic picture of a temp sending unit.

I have to move the bus he told me to get a long screwdriver and push down on this lever at the bottom of my motor with a really long screwdriver
No idea what that is talking about. Fuel injection isn't on bottom of motor. It would be helpful if you told what kind of engine you have. Since you mention injectors,on a 1983 bus, I'm assuming diesel.

You say won't start. Does the engine turn and not start or, does the engine not turn? You mention a clicking noise. that sounds like MAYBE bad battery or bad wiring connections. A "mechanic" should have known what the sound was.

By the way I'm a Dick.
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Old 12-17-2020, 01:51 PM   #5
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There is a lot to unpack in your post which isn't helped by the lack of paragraphs.

First off, you say it is a 1983 Carpenter. You don't say if it is a Type C bus with the engine out front under a hood or a Type D FE bus with the engine under a dog house next to the driver or a Type D RE bus with the engine in the rear. You also don't say which engine it is we are talking about. Different engines and different chassis require different types of troubleshooting.

I assume that since you only had the head off that your overheating was caused by a bad head gasket. Why that should have been a problem with a bus with so few miles could only be explained by not keep the pH in the coolant nearly neutral.

As for not starting, you need to get back to the basics.

First, you need to make sure your battery(s) are fully charged. If you have two or more batteries make sure they are all about the same age and condition. One old and one new battery will mean you have the power of two old batteries because the old battery will suck the life out of the new battery. Once you make sure the battery(s) are fully charged, make sure the battery cable ends are clean and tight on clean posts/studs. Make sure the ground wires are going to a good clean ground on the body and chassis. Make sure the positive lead going to the starter is clean and tight on the starter.

Second, make sure that when you turn on the key that all of the relays are turning on. On a school bus, particularly a bus like a Carpenter that was built on OEM vendor supplied chassis, it is sometimes difficult for the electrical system on the body to talk to the electrical system on the chassis. If when you turn on the key everything doesn't turn on then you need to find out where the juice is getting lost.

Third, when you turn the key to start are there any lock outs keeping the key switch from working. A 1983 isn't going to have nearly as many lockouts as a 2003 bus it still may have some. The number one lockout is the neutral lock out. Whether it has a manual or automatic it will most likely have a neutral lock out on the starting circuit. Cycle the gear shift into and out of gear a couple of times to make sure you are in neutral.

Fourth, if when you turn the key to start and all you get is clicking then somewhere you are losing juice. Go back to step one and recheck how much juice is in the battery. You may want to help things out by using a jump box or jumper cables to another vehicle that is running to give your battery(s) as much help as possible. If you have lots of juice and it is still clicking you may want to jump the starter relay directly to see if the starter will turn.

Fifth, at this point if it still doesn't want to start you may need to go back to what was done before. If the engine is a DT466 it has wet sleeves. If the head gasket was bad I would tend to think the cylinder liner seals may have failed as well. If that is so, it may have filled one or more of your cylinders with water. If that has happened trying to start with a cylinder full of water can cause major damage. The only way to check that would be to pull the injectors to seeing if one or more of the cylinders if full of water.

Good luck.
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Old 12-17-2020, 01:58 PM   #6
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I am not at all sure what it is you are trying to show us in the photos.

In the first one I see a relay with lots of wires. I am not sure what it is we are supposed to be looking at.

In the second photo I see what looks like a water temperature sender with the wire that hooks to it. I am not sure what is about the wire and sender we are needing to comment about.

In the third photo it appears to be a longer shot of the water temperature sender. I am still not sure what it is we need to be looking at in order to comment. It could be the center of the sender where the wire connects has come apart. See the photo somewhereinusa posted to see what a new temperature sender should look like.

If that is the wire that is disconnected, it would have nothing to do with the engine starting or not starting or causing the starter solenoid to click.
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Old 12-17-2020, 03:43 PM   #7
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Why is the alternator going to a relay? That seems odd. Is this dual voltage? 24 volt start and 12 volt for lights gauges etc? I had an old truck set up that way. and it did use a relay to separate the voltages.
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Old 12-17-2020, 04:54 PM   #8
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I see the sending unit. If that wire goes to it and was grounding that would give you a high temp reading. Nothing to do with starting the bus unless there's a high temp cut out of some kind
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83 carpenter, original dt466, wiring

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