Pitfalls of a bus that hasn't been run in years?

[roach711]

Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur

My usual mechanic tells me these 7.3's have oil-dependent injectors. When the engines run low of oil, the injectors will not fire correctly (or at all). So the first thing I'd check is the oil level and/or do an oil change. This is one reason these engines very rarely suffer low-oil-related breakdowns, they simply stop running before they get that low on oil. Another difficult start possibility involves the glow plugs and/or related circuits that make them work. Since I've never really worked on the 7.3, I don't know enough about it to offer much more advice ...

All true. Old oil that's lost it's anti-foam inhibitors will also cause drive-ability problems. SOP is to change oil at 5000 miles.

Here's a bit of 7.3L info I put together from many sources:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f34/th...sel-10607.html

[PigPen]

Originally Posted by roach711

All true. Old oil that's lost it's anti-foam inhibitors will also cause drive-ability problems. SOP is to change oil at 5000 miles.

Here's a bit of 7.3L info I put together from many sources:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f34/th...sel-10607.html

WOW. Can't believe I haven't manage to find this before. This is fantastic.

[PigPen]

We got the bus home last weekend. We'll be starting a proper thread with tons of pictures later today/tomorrow, but have a quick question we were hoping one of you guys could help with.

So the bus ended up being in amazing condition, and the starting problem boiled down to a missing starter bolt that I finally found the proper size replacement to and batteries that were allowed to fully discharge. We got the batteries up and running for the trip home, and the mechanic thought they may come back to life, but if I leave them sit over a couple days they die.

Before we go out and buy batteries, do you guys have any recommendations? Also, I can't find specifics regarding the ideal specs. I thought someone had mentioned them in this thread but I guess not. The owners manual doesn't give specs, and the fordparts website indicates I only need 1 battery with 650 cca (I'd like to see them try to start this engine with that hahaha!)

Any opinions?

[roach711]

Before replacing the batteries, completely disconnect the cables and charge them again. If they still die quickly they're toast, but if they now hold a charge there's a drain somewhere in the wiring. I'd rather have bad batteries than have to chase down funky wiring.

Mine has two size 31D batteries with 850 cca each if memory serves. One good battery would probably start that beast but I definitely like having the extra capacity there if I ever need it. If yours has a slide out battery drawer you may be able to fit one 8D.

[PigPen]

I do have the slide out door, if I wanted to go with that big battery, where would I find one? I've looked around and can't find any in my area.

Also, how do you guys jump/charge dead batteries in your buses? I have a Toyotta Corolla that does not seem to do the trick. We had to jump it with a bus when we bought it...

Finally, the best deals on batteries I could find so far are 2 autocraft from Advance for about $240 total or 2 motorcraft from the local dealership for a few bucks less. Both options are group 65, 850 CCA and 1000 CA with 3 years full warranty. Would you recommend one over the other?

[roach711]

Most auto parts stores will load test your batteries for free. If you don't have a battery charger that may be your best bet.

If only one tests bad it's best to replace both together to avoid having the new strong battery being partially drained by the old weaker battery.

The prices you quote sound reasonable. If you're a Costco customer you can get a discount on car batteries at some stores.