Replace Radiator Hoses

[lornaschinske]

I'm going to need to replace the radiator hoses on the bus before I move the bus in the Spring (one of my kids will be getting married). David thought they were soft and collapsing causing the motor to run hot. He never got around to replacing them so it's up to me now. Can anyone tell me a rough estimate as to how much it will cost to replace the hoses? I won't be doing it until January as my next "big" purchase is a water softener (my christmas present to the bus) before the NM water eats everything up. I found radiator hoses on the NAPPAonline.com website and I know there is a NAPPA store here in town... somewhere. Also, would the service manual that I need to buy (along with a parts manual) tell me how to change them out (like where the stuff is to drain the antifreeze, shut off's that need to be opened and how much antifreeze I'm going to have to catch).

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul ... %2b2166002

So much to do, so little time... and money. Situation normal.

[opus]

I understand the funds and time issue. I'd surely call a Detroit dealer and ask them what they'd charge to do it. Messy job with possibility of air locks afterwards as well. You could call a local school bus shop and see if they'd take the job on. Either way, somethings are just worth hiring out....to me, and I'm a pretty good wrench too. Just my input though.

[frank-id]

Hey Lornaschinske call me. Changing hoses is not a tough task. The job will take a few hours but ya can save some money. Call me and we can talk. Frank 208 423 5969

[lornaschinske]

Originally Posted by opus

I understand the funds and time issue. I'd surely call a Detroit dealer and ask them what they'd charge to do it. Messy job with possibility of air locks afterwards as well. You could call a local school bus shop and see if they'd take the job on. Either way, somethings are just worth hiring out....to me, and I'm a pretty good wrench too. Just my input though.

I've changed radiator hoses on my jeep, the 1976 GMC Class C, sepentine belts, did all the tune ups on the Jeep, Class C, Buick Century, Ford Ranger, VW (bug and squareback) and the Cadillac (because you ended up siting in the engine to do the tuneup.... it was a really BIG motor... I loved that engine). So I have no problem getting dirty. Just give me a book with the instructions and I am quiet capable of doing it myself. Plus it gives me the added benefit of being able to the job in a vacant parking lot on a holiday weekend. So, no, I would rather do it myself.

Originally Posted by frank-id

Hey Lornaschinske call me. Changing hoses is not a tough task. The job will take a few hours but ya can save some money. Call me and we can talk. Frank

You are liable to get a call from me when I get more minutes on my phone and after the Black Friday weekend which I am working (EEEK!) Will PM you for a good time to call.

[somewhereinusa]

Lorna, it's really easy.
I don't remember if you kept any of the rear heaters, I'm guessing not.
If you want to drain the whole system. There will be a drain plug, or possibly a spigot somewhere on the bottom of the radiator. There are also two
drains on the block, one on each side.



They may or may not have something other than a pipe plug screwed in to the hole. Also remove the lowermost heater hose where it goes into the engine. I recommend that you also flush the cooling system. You can do a pretty good job if you have access to a water hose where you are going to do it. With the heater hose off run water both directions until you get good clean water, make sure you have the heater control valves all open. You can also kind of flush the radiator and block by doing the same thing at the upper radiator hose, but you have to remove the thermostat to do that.

When you are filling, if you don't know the cooling capacity, you can fill using every other gallon antifreeze and water, starting with a gallon of antifreeze. My AARE has a bleed valve on the front heater core accessible when you open the front panel. It was on the upper right and is a 1/8" plastic tube coming out of the top of the piping and going down to behind the bumper with a valve at the end. Run everything until you get good flow and the heater gets hot at both inlet and outlet.

Hope this helps,
Dick

[Dragonpop]

My Cummins manual says that if you are going to flush the system you add 1 pound of sodium carbonate per 6 gallons of water and add
that to the cooling system after a full drain of the radiator, engine and heater system. Then run for 5 minutes after the engine reaches
176 degrees F. It also states that as you fill the radiator that you open bleeder valves till all bubbles are out and wait 2-3 minutes after it
is full to let the bubbles out of the radiator and then top it off to the bottom of the filler neck and leave the radiator cap off when flushing.
You then drain the flush solution and check to see how dirty it is and then fill again with clean water and run to temp plus 5 minutes again.
If the water still comes out dirty then flush again till clean. You will want to get multiple gallons of distilled water to mix with the coolant to
avoid mineral deposits in the cooling system I believe my 1996 AARE takes around 30 quarts with all the heaters still in the system. Just make
sure to mix the coolant and water together before installing. They recommend a 50/50 mix but you can go as high as 70% coolant to water
safely if you expect colder temps that -34F. The main drain is on the radiator and possibly one or more on the engine block. Do you also have
a coolant filter you will need to change? Changing the hoses is very similar to any other vehicle just larger hoses. If they don't want to come
off I usually slit them with a blade and peel them back from the fitting. With your experience you'll do just fine just have catch pail that can
hold 5 or 6 gallons. Best of luck.