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08-01-2021, 06:56 PM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Replacing braided air hose?
Hi all, I need to replace the Bendix air dryer on my Thomas bus, but when I tried to remove the air hose coming from the governor up front, it was REALLY hard to get moving, and once I did, I noticed that the hose, which is a braided metal hose, was getting twisted/kinking because the hose fitting was rusty, so the nut on the hose end wasn't spinning independently from the actual hose.
I'm assuming I need to replace this hose, and was wondering if it was going to be a specific part for this particular bus, or if a typical heavy truck mechanic could just make up a new hose from off the shelf parts.
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08-02-2021, 08:32 AM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Both.
What you have likely has a specific part number, but there are generic teflon lined stainless braided air compressor hoses available. Your typical heavy duty shop should be able to set you up with something that will work.
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08-02-2021, 08:35 AM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
Both.
What you have likely has a specific part number, but there are generic teflon lined stainless braided air compressor hoses available. Your typical heavy duty shop should be able to set you up with something that will work.
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Cool. I'd rather not shell out more $$$ to Ohio CAT if I can help it so I'll see what the mechanic can provide first. I considered replacing the air dryer myself, but now that I have to trace out this hose I may just let them do it while I get the radiator flushed anyway.
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08-02-2021, 08:53 AM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Wouldn't be an ohio cat part, but a thomas bus part. Ohio cat might be able to get it through a dealer network, but If your bus was purchased from a local district, it was likely bought through rodoc in delphos, which is our area's local thomas dealer.
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08-02-2021, 09:42 AM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
Wouldn't be an ohio cat part, but a thomas bus part. Ohio cat might be able to get it through a dealer network, but If your bus was purchased from a local district, it was likely bought through rodoc in delphos, which is our area's local thomas dealer.
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Interesting. My bus was originally sold by Ohio CAT in Reynoldsburg (Dayton), so I thought they were the only Thomas dealer on this side of Ohio.
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08-02-2021, 10:16 AM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Isnt reynoldsburg here in Columbus ?
I’ve had my local Napa machine shop store make those air lines for me right while I wait. Not sure if you have a Napa around there with a machine shop?
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08-02-2021, 10:31 AM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbsoundman
Interesting. My bus was originally sold by Ohio CAT in Reynoldsburg (Dayton), so I thought they were the only Thomas dealer on this side of Ohio.
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No, there's several thomas dealers in the state. Which district originally bought it? If it was by toledo it should have been rodoc's territory, East towards cleveland would be meyers service near youngstwn. Southern Ohio could be possibly ohio cat, I'm not sure.
Reynoldsburg is actually near columbus, not sure if ohio cat has a dealer there. That might be considered south's territory, I'm not sure.
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08-02-2021, 10:35 AM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
Isnt reynoldsburg here in Columbus ?
I’ve had my local Napa machine shop store make those air lines for me right while I wait. Not sure if you have a Napa around there with a machine shop?
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Depends on the napa store and the type of hose. My local store will do all sorts of hydraulic and air hose, but they don't have teflon lined stainless braid. They have to order it in already made. So I guess it depends on the type of hose he needs. I've never seen a compressor discharge line that wasn't either teflon lined stainless or hardline copper/steel.
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08-02-2021, 11:02 AM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
Depends on the napa store and the type of hose. My local store will do all sorts of hydraulic and air hose, but they don't have teflon lined stainless braid. They have to order it in already made. So I guess it depends on the type of hose he needs. I've never seen a compressor discharge line that wasn't either teflon lined stainless or hardline copper/steel.
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ive not seen a discharge line that wasnt actual copper.. I was always told it was done that way to radiate heat and to not heat fatigue a rubber (steel braided is rubber inside).. line..
ive seen a lot of steel braided line that goes from the dryer to the wet tank..
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08-02-2021, 11:03 AM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Ohio CAT in columbus is on the west side of town.. ive seen it before..
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08-02-2021, 11:15 AM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Correct, the air out of the compressor is hot and in a high vibration area, so it has to be something to handle the environment. Copper( I think it's an alloy actually) is common. As is steel in some of the older stuff. Newer stuff I've seen use stainless braid with a teflon liner. I don't think a nylon or rubber liner would last in that environment.
Dryer to wet tank I've seen commonly nylon tube or braided hydraulic hose.
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08-02-2021, 07:15 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Baja often, Oregon frequently
Posts: 427
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Our hot little grubbies...
Chassis: Ford CF8000 ExpeditionVehicle
Engine: Cummins 505ci mechanical
Rated Cap: Five Heelers
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1997 Ford CF8000:
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Our air-dryer has a replaceable cartridge.
I simultaneously replaced the pop-off valve.
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About four minutes with a half-inch impact.
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I was an aircraft mechanic, A&P.
I tend to not complicate PM.
Eyes, nose, hands, done.
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08-02-2021, 08:10 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LargeMargeInBaja
1997 Ford CF8000:
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Our air-dryer has a replaceable cartridge.
I simultaneously replaced the pop-off valve.
.
About four minutes with a half-inch impact.
.
I was an aircraft mechanic, A&P.
I tend to not complicate PM.
Eyes, nose, hands, done.
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They went cheap on my bus and used a Bendix AD-IP, which is technically rebuildable, but mine has a seam in it that definitely leaks (I think someone put sealant on it to get some more time out of it in service), so it needs to be replaced fully.
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08-03-2021, 05:05 AM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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A lot of the newer busses seem to have the AD-IP. I see them on a lot of box trucks too
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08-03-2021, 08:03 AM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbsoundman
They went cheap on my bus and used a Bendix AD-IP, which is technically rebuildable, but mine has a seam in it that definitely leaks (I think someone put sealant on it to get some more time out of it in service), so it needs to be replaced fully.
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I wouldn't consider an ADIP cheap.
What seam are you talking about? There's a large o-ring between the cartridge and dryer base that should be replaced when replacing the cartridge. Is that the seam?
I think the AD IP is easier to service, so long as the center bolt is well lubed to prevent being stuck. I can replace the cartridge and install a rebuild kit on an IP quicker then most could get the housing off on an ad9.
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08-03-2021, 09:18 AM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
I wouldn't consider an ADIP cheap.
What seam are you talking about? There's a large o-ring between the cartridge and dryer base that should be replaced when replacing the cartridge. Is that the seam?
I think the AD IP is easier to service, so long as the center bolt is well lubed to prevent being stuck. I can replace the cartridge and install a rebuild kit on an IP quicker then most could get the housing off on an ad9.
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My elementary understanding was that the ADIP was better off being replaced because mine is kind of corroded, plus the purge valve looks a little sad and it seemed like the cost of the rebuild kit was approaching the cost of a whole new unit. The new unit was about $500. However, now I'm debating since I'll also have to replace that braided hose and I don't know how much that will cost in time and effort. Hmm...
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08-03-2021, 09:51 AM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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If it's corroded to hell and needs more work then it's worth, a reman might be a better choice.
The ad9 is a better dryer, but that doesn't mean an adip is trash. Most new buses/trucks have the adip because of serviceability. To service an ad9 on a bus, you typically have to remove the unit and do it on a bench, because the top housing won't clear the floor when trying to remove it over the cartridge. That isn't the case with an adip, as the top housing is a part of the cartridge, and the housing/cartridge is completely replaced.
AD9 takes about an hour for service, adip is 15 minutes or less.
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08-03-2021, 09:53 AM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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For one bus, it probably doesn't make a difference. Go with the cheaper reman unit, so long as it's from a quality supplier(avoid Chinese clones). But doing this day in and day out, time saved is money earned.
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08-03-2021, 10:06 AM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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OK cool, I already have a brand new unit in my possession (remans weren't that much cheaper) so I'll go that route. Now I just need to talk to the mechanic and/or NAPA and see about replacing that hose, once I make sure I know where it starts. There's a lot going on around the air compressor, I still haven't 100% spotted the actual governor, it's hidden in there above the compressor I think. Time to take off the doghouse again!
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08-03-2021, 08:10 PM
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#20
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Took off the doghouse tonight and got a closer look at the braided hose. Naturally it connects to the compressor in the tightest spot where you could only move a wrench about 1/10 of a turn at a time to remove it.
I also got a better picture of the crusty fitting, see attached photo.
I’m debating whether I should a) see if I can clean up the crusty end and remove/reuse it as-is, b) get a new hose and DIY the repair to save the mechanics fee, or c) say F it and have the mechanic do it all. On the one hand, I wouldn’t mind saving the money especially since I’ll need some new shocks as well (grumble grumble), but I also know it will take me a good chunk of a day to do this job, whereas a mechanic would have it done much more quickly.
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