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04-08-2016, 02:28 PM
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#41
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptSquid
I don't have metal strips in the middle of my front doors. They're aluminum framed glass. The glass is uninterrupted from top to bottom.
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There must be some arm fixed to the door frame a few inches away from the pivot point, right? Or maybe the pivot is an axle, and the operating arm is hidden behind a cover above the door.. My front doors (now deleted) sound similar to yours. One of the doors had a short arm attached to it, to which a regular rod end was bolted and the control rod ran off to somewhere else in the mechanism. I realized that if I could prevent that bolt from moving it would directly hold the one door leaf fixed closed and via the rod end and rod would also prevent the other leaf opening. I replaced the bolt with a section of threaded rod and a coupler nut, then positioned a piece of sheet metal with a hole drilled through just below where the coupler nut sat with the doors closed. I could thread a screw through that sheet into the coupler nut and it would prevent opening the front doors. My rear doors already had locks, so I'd secure the front from the inside then exit through the rear and lock that from the outside.
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04-08-2016, 03:13 PM
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#42
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj
I prefer claymore mines, myself
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But claymores are so noisy!
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04-08-2016, 04:27 PM
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#43
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Yes, but it is followed by silence.
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04-08-2016, 04:57 PM
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#44
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 447
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Yes, but it is followed by silence.
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Lmao
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
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04-08-2016, 06:17 PM
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#45
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Sweet I was just about to look for this info again.
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04-08-2016, 06:23 PM
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#46
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
There must be some arm fixed to the door frame a few inches away from the pivot point, right? Or maybe the pivot is an axle, and the operating arm is hidden behind a cover above the door.. My front doors (now deleted) sound similar to yours. One of the doors had a short arm attached to it, to which a regular rod end was bolted and the control rod ran off to somewhere else in the mechanism. I realized that if I could prevent that bolt from moving it would directly hold the one door leaf fixed closed and via the rod end and rod would also prevent the other leaf opening. I replaced the bolt with a section of threaded rod and a coupler nut, then positioned a piece of sheet metal with a hole drilled through just below where the coupler nut sat with the doors closed. I could thread a screw through that sheet into the coupler nut and it would prevent opening the front doors. My rear doors already had locks, so I'd secure the front from the inside then exit through the rear and lock that from the outside.
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I'll take a look tonight.
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04-08-2016, 09:49 PM
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#47
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 27
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International 3800 chassis
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 77
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Back door
Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
There must be some arm fixed to the door frame a few inches away from the pivot point, right? Or maybe the pivot is an axle, and the operating arm is hidden behind a cover above the door.. My front doors (now deleted) sound similar to yours. One of the doors had a short arm attached to it, to which a regular rod end was bolted and the control rod ran off to somewhere else in the mechanism. I realized that if I could prevent that bolt from moving it would directly hold the one door leaf fixed closed and via the rod end and rod would also prevent the other leaf opening. I replaced the bolt with a section of threaded rod and a coupler nut, then positioned a piece of sheet metal with a hole drilled through just below where the coupler nut sat with the doors closed. I could thread a screw through that sheet into the coupler nut and it would prevent opening the front doors. My rear doors already had locks, so I'd secure the front from the inside then exit through the rear and lock that from the outside.
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What are u using as steps for exiting rear of bus--I need ideas
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04-09-2016, 12:51 AM
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#48
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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You can always cut a hole big enough for your foot in that big black bumper.
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04-09-2016, 05:50 PM
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#49
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheryl_ann44
What are u using as steps for exiting rear of bus--I need ideas
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Sorry... mine was used in transit service. It has a "rear" door on the side, just forward of the rear axle, like a city bus. With built-in steps. I didn't use the rear door much on the school bus I had before this one, so I never solved that problem.
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04-10-2016, 09:35 AM
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#50
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,708
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheryl_ann44
What are u using as steps for exiting rear of bus--I need ideas
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I got this.
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04-10-2016, 11:32 AM
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#51
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
I got this.
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are these RV stairs or something you made?
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04-10-2016, 12:32 PM
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#52
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,708
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Something made. 1/4 thick 2x2 angle iron and 1/8 thick steel diamond plate tied into the frame rails. Sturdy enough that I could robably mount a hitch on it if I desired.
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04-10-2016, 12:35 PM
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#53
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Wow that's an illuminating paint job.
That type of step wouldn't make it where I travel. Hangs to low and would get scraped off or severely bent. I can see where that design could easily be made to hold the spare tire for you folks that stay on the hardtop.
At home I use several sections/rounds of tree of varying length to make steps into the rear of the bus. When traveling I use a foot hole cut into the bumper, which isn't perfect but better than straining something trying to get in or out.
If you've thought about a trailer hitch on your bus, a step or even several stairs can be attached to the hitch and then removed if you need to tow something.
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04-10-2016, 01:13 PM
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#54
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Wow that's an illuminating paint job.
That type of step wouldn't make it where I travel. Hangs to low and would get scraped off or severely bent. I can see where that design could easily be made to hold the spare tire for you folks that stay on the hardtop.
At home I use several sections/rounds of tree of varying length to make steps into the rear of the bus. When traveling I use a foot hole cut into the bumper, which isn't perfect but better than straining something trying to get in or out.
If you've thought about a trailer hitch on your bus, a step or even several stairs can be attached to the hitch and then removed if you need to tow something.
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The paint for me I would call it high heat silver. Love it and if it weren't for my wife I would have already been the same color (dang gome) I love it and always wondered what my bus could have looked like with it.
Please send at least 1 side pic. Please?
My other insist on a green,brown or something like that to make less of an appearance with the big RV owners in the campgrounds. I decided a royal blue with red ribbons and we are still at a standstill but it is only a discussion until I actually finish the under storage and doors/facial skin associated. So we are and will be primer grey until then. I did paint my rims silver dang I love that color
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04-10-2016, 01:27 PM
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#55
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Haven't made it yet but for steps and hitch? I was planning on making my own hitch that is long enough to hold a platform with rails and slide out/fold down steps long enough for the back door to fully open and heavy duty enough to be able to to use a drop in Reese hitch with my attachment or without
Reese already makes a 2"-1-1/2" adapter which I already have for my truck and I can make a 4"-2" adapter ( sorry ) 4" tubing is what I would like to use to support my back door deck and steps and extend out to be able to hook up a trailer or whatever I want to haul.
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04-10-2016, 02:23 PM
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#56
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
Something made. 1/4 thick 2x2 angle iron and 1/8 thick steel diamond plate tied into the frame rails. Sturdy enough that I could robably mount a hitch on it if I desired.
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unfortunately I totally SUCK at making strong welds.. so I stick to bolts.. Great Job i love it..
-Christopher
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04-10-2016, 02:38 PM
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#57
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Yeah, a hitch extension works good and makes space available for steps and a rail. When I'm towing I just use the trailer tongue for a step. Step hole in the bumper for everything else when I'm not at home with my semi permanent steps.
Are you also using the hitch to attach a stabilizer for the rear of the bus?
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04-11-2016, 01:35 AM
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#58
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: on the land of tejas; state of mind
Posts: 86
Year: 95
Coachwork: Amtran ss-33
Chassis: Int 3800
Engine: dt444E
Rated Cap: 29,000
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that's cool but it will interfere with my 2"receiver hitch.
__________________
claim common law i, a man; claim.... on facebook
if your not a man our doing it all wrong-kp
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04-11-2016, 01:44 AM
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#59
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: on the land of tejas; state of mind
Posts: 86
Year: 95
Coachwork: Amtran ss-33
Chassis: Int 3800
Engine: dt444E
Rated Cap: 29,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
Something made. 1/4 thick 2x2 angle iron and 1/8 thick steel diamond plate tied into the frame rails. Sturdy enough that I could robably mount a hitch on it if I desired.
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you can get by with less metal thickness if you mount a tie back to the first cross member ahead of the hitch (forward). its used to distribute the load to more of the frame. have seen a chain and ratchet binder fulfill that role (although temporarily). chain only helps on pull and not load push (stopping).
__________________
claim common law i, a man; claim.... on facebook
if your not a man our doing it all wrong-kp
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04-11-2016, 01:52 AM
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#60
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: on the land of tejas; state of mind
Posts: 86
Year: 95
Coachwork: Amtran ss-33
Chassis: Int 3800
Engine: dt444E
Rated Cap: 29,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger
The paint for me I would call it high heat silver. Love it and if it weren't for my wife I would have already been the same color (dang gome) I love it and always wondered what my bus could have looked like with it.
Please send at least 1 side pic. Please?
My other insist on a green,brown or something like that to make less of an appearance with the big RV owners in the campgrounds. I decided a royal blue with red ribbons and we are still at a standstill but it is only a discussion until I actually finish the under storage and doors/facial skin associated. So we are and will be primer grey until then. I did paint my rims silver dang I love that color
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that color is really cool. literally. the February hand test results say its a 17.392 degree difference between white and silver. i rolled on my base coat and sprayed a topcoat to even things out. rolling makes it splotchy without multiple cover passes. spray has finer and more even particles. no discernible diff in actual color.
__________________
claim common law i, a man; claim.... on facebook
if your not a man our doing it all wrong-kp
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