TC2000 Allison 545 to 1000 swap with pictures

[cadillackid]

if the donor vehicle has a 545 in it then an SAE3 1000 will bolt right up to it and its flywheel.. the AT545 was only Built with an SAE3 bell.. the 1000/2000 series could have GMC (used on duramaxx), SAE3 (most common) or SAE2 (usually only found on 2400 series)..


the converter Offsets and bolt pattern of the AT545 and an SAE3 1000/2000 are the same..



Big Block Chevy trucks (C50/C60, topkick,6500/7500) generally all had SAE3 flywheel housings behind them. the AT545 was sold on many 366 and 454 busses for years.. that housing could be removed and installed on a different block giving you the SAE3 bell pattern to use medium duty transmissions..

[Crawlerhauler]

Thanks, I am going to reach out and find out what motor was in front of it. I know it came out of a UPS truck. But I am thinking it came out from behind a Gm motor. Fingers crossed. But now I now what to look for. Much appreciated!

[cadillackid]

Get a picture of the bell in the trans .. if it’s a round 12 bolt bell then it’s an SAE, if it’s the usual GM shape (like a house ). Then it won’t fit on a 5.9.. but it’s really easy to tell

[rlg999]

Yes, what he said^^^^^!!!! Cadillackid was one of my inspirations for doing the swap. He has tons of info on it.

[rlg999]

If you go to my post #4 and look at the second page of pics, you can see what the bellhousing needs to look like.

[Crawlerhauler]

So I found out that it came out from behind a 6.0 Chevy. I am going to try and post some picks later. But from what I can tell it looks the same as the pics you have. I haven't been able to personally go look at it yet. Since the guy doesn't live close, but hopping to go this weekend.

[dalez]

Originally Posted by rlg999

my 3-4 shift was right at 35 and around 2100 rpms, my 4-5 shift was at 50 and around 2100 also

Why only 2100rpm? Doesnt the engine hit peak power way up around 2700rpm or so? I get you'll get better fuel economy if you keep it closer to 2k max, but you're leaving gobs of power for acceleration/climbing @ WOT on the table with it so low arent you? Or am I missing something?

[cadillackid]

there were 6.0 chevies out in medium duty trucks using the SAE3 bell so its entirely possible its the right bell ..

[rlg999]

DALEZ, In my bus, it seemed to fall on it's face above 2200 or so. Maybe its the turbo on the bus, the gear ratio, fueling, or whatever, but above that rpm it just makes more noise, but didn't seem to have any more grunt. I agree that it should pull up to about 2600 rpms. But performance is very acceptable as is, and if I do need more rpms, I can always downshift it back to 4th. Usually I do that to reduce EGTs when climbing.

[dalez]

Interesting! My new bluebirb is really close to yours in year, I'm going to have to check that out as soon as I can get it back on the road. Thanks!

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Originally Posted by Crawlerhauler

So I found out that it came out from behind a 6.0 Chevy. I am going to try and post some picks later. But from what I can tell it looks the same as the pics you have. I haven't been able to personally go look at it yet. Since the guy doesn't live close, but hopping to go this weekend.

the 6.0 in the medium duty or truck world is actually the LQ4 block.
all cast iron with cast heads.
the 6.0 LS block and heads are all aluminum for the cars.
supposed to be the exact same design but i have never seen the two side by side to compare or had the tranny off of either one? yet?

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by rlg999

DALEZ, In my bus, it seemed to fall on it's face above 2200 or so. Maybe its the turbo on the bus, the gear ratio, fueling, or whatever, but above that rpm it just makes more noise, but didn't seem to have any more grunt. I agree that it should pull up to about 2600 rpms. But performance is very acceptable as is, and if I do need more rpms, I can always downshift it back to 4th. Usually I do that to reduce EGTs when climbing.

my 7.3 bus is over-geared in the rear so I have to go down to 4th to get down the EGTs when I run it hard for a longer period of time.. with the revs up ill pull 30 PSI boost and it pulls really hard.. I built my TCM shift schedule to call for a downshift if RPM-safe when my EGTs hit 1100.. I use an output on my EGT gauge to trigger an input on the TCM.. it should be better once I install a 4.10 rear gear instead of the 3.54

[dalez]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I built my TCM shift schedule to call for a downshift if RPM-safe when my EGTs hit 1100.. I use an output on my EGT gauge to trigger an input on the TCM.. it should be better once I install a 4.10 rear gear instead of the 3.54

Is that a feature Jason offers?

[cadillackid]

Jason's TCMs should have 4 shift schedules.. im not sure the difference in them when he builds his default or not.. his should have Tow/haul, and another input available.. 4x4 I think.. you can ask him.. if I remember right the defaults he includes are similar.. his TCMs are EFIlive tuneable so I got EFIlive and tune them that way.. I have a Flashcan V2 and V3 device

[La Camioneta]

Originally Posted by rlg999

DALEZ, In my bus, it seemed to fall on it's face above 2200 or so. Maybe its the turbo on the bus, the gear ratio, fueling, or whatever, but above that rpm it just makes more noise, but didn't seem to have any more grunt. I agree that it should pull up to about 2600 rpms. But performance is very acceptable as is, and if I do need more rpms, I can always downshift it back to 4th. Usually I do that to reduce EGTs when climbing.

Have you done any engine mods?
Head bolts need to be retorqued, do the kdp kit, 3k gsk, #8 fuel plate, and bump timing up a few degrees and wire wastegate shut or clamp off boost reference tube. Makes a world of difference on the 12 valve and my egts are ~900f at 20-22psi.

Mods fall under max torque specs for the 5 speed Allison swap and keeps up with or passes semis on the interstate.

https://usdieselparts.com/c-778605-1...odge-5-9l.html

[La Camioneta]

Originally Posted by rlg999

I have a 12 valve Cummins. Make sure the donor vehicle had a Cummins in front of the transmission. I don't think a GM gas or diesel Allison bellhousing will work. The new torque converter and transmission bolted right up to my engine flex plate. Also make sure the transmission mounts are in the same place or you'll have to build some. Try to get the transmission computer from the truck also if you can, it may already be programmed to work in a stand alone application. If it isn't, Jason is your man. I haven't driven mine a whole lot in the past few months because of stupid high diesel prices, but I'm hoping to get out in it some after the first of the year.

Originally Posted by Crawlerhauler

What motor are you running in your bus? I have a 97 blue bird with a 59 Cummins and I'm pretty sure a 545. I do know it is a 4 speed and that it runs around 26 to 2800 rpm at 65. It loves 55, lol! But dang it takes for ever to get any were. I have found a 1000 hs and told the guy I was very interested. He's not in a hurry to sale, so he told me to do some research and get back with him. Thanks for any info.

Converter stall is critical.

I wound up having a TC-222 made for my swap. Apparently since the Cummins wasn't offered with the Allison in (m)any applications the 222 was impossible to source and just cheaper to rework a core converter into one.

Jason explains below:

https://transmissiontuner.com/blog/f...r-stall-speed/

[Nickgeo]

Originally Posted by rlg999

Well I've finally bit the bullet and decided to start my 545 to 1000 swap in my 92 Bluebird TC2000 short bus. I hated to pull out a perfectly good transmission, but the last trip to Florida was pretty slow, poking along at 55mph.
The first step was to get my used trans that we picked up in Alabama home and inspect it. I drained the nice red fluid and pulled the pan, the filters and everything looked pretty good, just a tiny bit of material on the magnet inside the pan. New filters installed and I reattached the pan.
I contacted Jason at transmission tuners and he told me what I needed to get for a controller. Found one online and sent it to him. He had it on it's way back to me in just a day or two. He is an awesome guy and provided lots of info via numerous emails back and forth.
The removal of the 545 was really simple, I did it by myself in the driveway with just a motorcycle jack. First, I drove the bus up onto a few 2x12s on all four corners to give a little more working room. Chock the wheels and make sure nothing can move! Disconnect the battery, then disconnect the small plug on the right side of the transmission. Remove the bolt holding the kick down module to the side of the trans and pull it out. Drain the fluid first, or you'll have a mess.. Remove the nut holding the shifter cable to the selector assembly and then the bracket holding the cable in place. Remove the two cooling hoses from the top of the transmission with a7/8 wrench. Drain the hoses into a pan to catch the fluid. Next remove the two bolts covering the access cover on the driver side of the bellhousing. Then take your pry bar and insert it into the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and rotate the engine clockwise until you can see one of the the 15mm head bolts. Remove all six of them. After the last one is out, the torque converter will spin freely when you insert the pry bar. Go to the back of the trans and remove the u joint bolts holding the drive shaft. Mine were super tight and I had to use a small torch to heat them up, then a small hammer to tap the bolts and they finally freed up. Wiggle the drive shaft back carefully and don't lose the needle bearings inside each cap. Loosen the bolts holding the center drive shaft support enough to allow the support to move a little. Remove the two bolts holding the drive shaft safety loop toward the front of the drive shaft. Now you can slide the drive shaft to the side enough so that the transmission will slide back over the front axle. Don't separate the driveshafts without marking the orientation or you'll get the u joints out of sync and have horrible vibrations. Go over to the passenger side and remove the fitting for the trans dip stick. I had to heat this one up a little also to get it to free up. It probably had some type of loc tite on it. Now that everything is removed from the trans, it's time to pull her out. Take a long extension and impact wrench and remove all the upper bolts around the transmission to bellhousing flange. Leave two side bolts in temporarily. Go under and remove the bottom bolts, now you should have only two of the twelve bolts remaining. I slid the motorcycle jack under the pan with a small piece of plywood between them and put a little pressure with the jack. Slowly remove the last two bolts, making sure the trans stays level and doesn't put any stress on the torque converter. Slide it back until you can balance it on the front axle. Move the jack behind the front axle and side the trans onto the jack. Lower the jack and side out the transmission. Voila, you're 1/100th of the way there, lol.

I am so happy I saw your posts.
I have 545 and thinking about Allison 2000.
Can't get much info anywhere.
I have cat 3126b with 190hp with Allison 545. It is horrible slow.
I am going to pull Allison 2000 from the rusty bus and use it.
I can not get any info if cat 3126b 190hp can handle Allison 2000.
For long distance driving.
Please I need advice

[La Camioneta]

Originally Posted by Nickgeo

I am so happy I saw your posts.
I have 545 and thinking about Allison 2000.
Can't get much info anywhere.
I have cat 3126b with 190hp with Allison 545. It is horrible slow.
I am going to pull Allison 2000 from the rusty bus and use it.
I can not get any info if cat 3126b 190hp can handle Allison 2000.
For long distance driving.
Please I need advice

What do you mean by 'handle'?

[Nickgeo]

I am not sure.

Someone told me that 2000 might put a stress, load on 190hp 3126 and rear end 4.11 ratio.

I am new to this and I don't know

I am new to this

[La Camioneta]

The locking torque converter stresses your drivetrain less, as more power gets converted into motion since torque converter slip is eliminated in the higher gears. Runs cooler, runs faster.

My 5.9 12 valve might make 190hp and zips along at freeway speeds since I swapped the 545 for a used 5 speed Allison.

Take your current top speed and divide it by 0.71 for your theoretical top speed in 5th.