Where is my ECM?

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Sounds like you're in one of those stricter states. Do you have to completely cover the yellow, or is it a 50% coverage requirement of the chrome yellow?

It's National School Bus Yellow per the MVA. So, it can be yellow but not that yellow. I suppose someone has a paint chip with the real color called out somewhere. And the requirement is that it not recongizable as a school bus. Probably the antagonist/engineer in me but a purple bus with all of its windows left in it still looks like a school bus to me. If your kid is dumb enough to step on any bus that drives by then maybe you ought not leave them at teh bus stop alone. Maybe that's why I see so many mommy cars at the end of a driveway that's all of 150 long waiting on the school bus. By 2nd grade I was walking 2 miles to school by myself. No, it was FL so it wasn't uphill nor in snow.

You'd likely be better off to get a gallon of Rustoleum and thin it before applying it with a brush or roller. The youtube vids show some nice shiny paint jobs done with Rustoleum.

I'm doing the least amount of work possible until I'm ready to do real primer and real painting unless someone can give me a reason why future work will be more difficult because of rattle cans.

You're right, I don't backread enough. This is a lot of conversations to be involved in. I work on my bus for a while, then I read posts for a while, all day long. Between cooking and cleaning and working on this bus there's not a lot of time left in the day. Maybe I should take a hint?

It fills my time while at work. If I wa a stay at home bus builder, I'd find something better to do with my time too.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Rameses

Just for the sake of clear communication in future endeavors, that isn't actually your ECM, that's the ABS module. The ECM is mounted on the left side of the engine by the injection pump.

unless you have a 444E then its on the right side valve cover..

and the ABS module is still down there under the bus someplace...

-Christopher

[Booyah45828]

ECM could mean both engine control module and electronic control module. While most people refer to the first example I've seen both in literature.

If you have an ISC, its ran by a computer on the side of the engine.

If you're looking at just getting paint on it. I'd suggest spraying the rustoleum paint by the gallon. Not sure how many rattle cans it would take to cover a bus but my hand hurts at the thought of it. That and the cost would be a lot more. You can buy a cheap gun at walmart or Harbor Freight, thin the rustoleum with mineral spirits/lacquer thinner depending on climate, and spray away. If you can use a rattle can, you can use a spray gun.

[cadillackid]

you can also roll it... seems ove seen some pretty decent pics of rolled busses where people took the time to properly prep and took their time with the roller..

makes it more neighborhood friendly where spraying and over-spray make neighbors antsy..
-Christopjer

[Robin97396]

I'll say overspray makes your neighbors antsy. Been there. Out here I could spray paint into the air all day long and not hit a neighbor.

Perhaps those rolled paint jobs don't look perfect up close, but applying the paint by brush and roller leaves a thicker coat than spray cans. The rattle can paint comes off over a period of years unless you seal it, and I also think you'll spend more on cans than a $26 gallon of rustoleum.

[family wagon]

Suppose you used a washable paint.. a set of ten 2 oz bottles of Crayola washable kids' paint is only $4.29 as an add-on item at Amazon. So that's 20 oz.. two thirds of a quart.. Maybe it's actually cost-effective? Mind the weather between application of the paint and inspection time. No need to worry about over spray on or off the bus.

The only concern I have about slapping on a coat of spray/rustoleum/whatever is that if the prep isn't good underneath then in the future it may all need to be stripped off. Otherwise whatever good paint you might apply would be applied over the top of a questionable base.

[Njsurf73]

I will be rolling it on.
First prep makes a huge difference.
The type of paint makes a difference too. A paint that's made to roll on will lay down easier. Slower curing paint will lay down better. Thin it about 10-15% with the reducer that is spec'd.
Use a tight nap roller cover (not foam) 1/4". Don't dry roll it.
Keep a wet edge and break off at panels... That keeps it looking uniform.
Cover your windows and anything within 10' that you don't want paint on.

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[Robin97396]

That's the idea, but I already know I'll do a halfazz prep job. It doesn't look like anybody has waxed this thing since forever. I'm going to rub it down with sandpaper, wash it and slap on some paint. But, just like today, every time I think about painting it rains again.

A paint guy said to paint on a cool dry morning if possible. Lots of cool mornings.

Does anybody bother taking off those chrome plastic strips?

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

That's the idea, but I already know I'll do a halfazz prep job. It doesn't look like anybody has waxed this thing since forever. I'm going to rub it down with sandpaper, wash it and slap on some paint. But, just like today, every time I think about painting it rains again.

A paint guy said to paint on a cool dry morning if possible. Lots of cool mornings.

Does anybody bother taking off those chrome plastic strips?

Depending on what paint your using, you could wipe it with mineral spirits, xylene, naptha, or acetone (wear gloves and a respirator even outside!!!)
The best thing to clean it with pre-paint is just dish soap and water. It cuts the road grime and grease, and does a pretty good job of stripping any old wax off.

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[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

If you have an ISC, its ran by a computer on the side of the engine.

I do.

Originally Posted by Robin97396

and I also think you'll spend more on cans than a $26 gallon of rustoleum.

26 cans at 10 oz each equals 260 oz / 128 oz = 2.03 gallons of paint. 26 cans at 97 cents each = $25.22

I got twice the paint for 78 cents less!!

Originally Posted by family wagon

Suppose you used a washable paint.. a set of ten 2 oz bottles of Crayola washable kids' paint is only $4.29 as an add-on item at Amazon. So that's 20 oz.. two thirds of a quart.. Maybe it's actually cost-effective? Mind the weather between application of the paint and inspection time. No need to worry about over spray on or off the bus.

I like you!! I was thinking a nice water based paint.

The only concern I have about slapping on a coat of spray/rustoleum/whatever is that if the prep isn't good underneath then in the future it may all need to be stripped off. Otherwise whatever good paint you might apply would be applied over the top of a questionable base.

That's my worry too. Now if I can hit it with a scotch brite pad and rough it up a little then primer paint for real, I'd be ok with that.

Originally Posted by Njsurf73

First prep makes a huge difference. The type of paint makes a difference too.

That's just it tho. I don't want to prep more than taping the rub bars. I'm not ready for the roof raise. When that is done, I'll prep, spend good money on paint, use a real sprayer, etc. I've gotta get the seats out, floor out, rust paint, etc. Then chop off the roof and rivet some fresh metal back in. Finally I can worry about real paint. That ain't all happening in 3 weeks. The temp tag expires 5/11.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

I do.

26 cans at 10 oz each equals 260 oz / 128 oz = 2.03 gallons of paint. 26 cans at 97 cents each = $25.22

I got twice the paint for 78 cents less!!

I like you!! I was thinking a nice water based paint.

That's my worry too. Now if I can hit it with a scotch brite pad and rough it up a little then primer paint for real, I'd be ok with that.

That's just it tho. I don't want to prep more than taping the rub bars. I'm not ready for the roof raise. When that is done, I'll prep, spend good money on paint, use a real sprayer, etc. I've gotta get the seats out, floor out, rust paint, etc. Then chop off the roof and rivet some fresh metal back in. Finally I can worry about real paint. That ain't all happening in 3 weeks. The temp tag expires 5/11.

The thing is, if you don't prep before this coat, you will work twice as hard to make it right. You could just wash it down, and then wipe it with xylene. It will soften up the base paint. It would take about a gallon.


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[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Njsurf73

The thing is, if you don't prep before this coat, you will work twice as hard to make it right. You could just wash it down, and then wipe it with xylene. It will soften up the base paint. It would take about a gallon.

Grrrrr. This is NOT want I what to hear.

No water nor electric. Looks like I'll have to move it, wash it, paint it proper.

[Robin97396]

I like the xyline idea, but I don't have any of that. Is that a paint etcher?

I'm going to paint this thing dirt color so I don't have to wash it anymore.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

I like the xyline idea, but I don't have any of that. Is that a paint etcher?

I'm going to paint this thing dirt color so I don't have to wash it anymore.

It's a reducer. It's available at home Depot and most paint stores. Wear heavy gloves. It's not good for you. If you have access to a Sherwin Williams, I highly recommend "industrial enamel HS"
It rolls on nicely and dries hard as a coffin nail.

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[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Njsurf73

It's a ruducer. It's available at home Depot and most paint stores.

Fancy talk for paint thinner. Blue can. Google it, you've seen it before.

Wear heavy gloves. It's not good for you.

Only a 2 on the MSDS for Health. I wouldn't drink more than one shot a day but there are far worse things out there.

If you have access to a Sherwin Williams, I highly recommend "industrial enamel HS"
It rolls on nicely and dries hard as a coffin nail.

What do you have for primer suggestions?

[Robin97396]

Oh, I got good stuff. It says "Inhalation of high concentrations of vapor may affect the central nervous system."

It has xyline in it. I guess that's better than the acetone I was going to use. So I'm covered, but I've only got one sheet of sandpaper. Isn't that how it always goes? Another trip to town.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

Fancy talk for paint thinner. Blue can. Google it, you've seen it before.

Only a 2 on the MSDS for Health. I wouldn't drink more than one shot a day but there are far worse things out there.


What do you have for primer suggestions?

I don't plan on using a primer. The xylene will give it a good bond. But if you want a primer, I am pretty sure any good alkyd primer will work. A chemchromic primer or macropoxy would be Overkill. There are some moisture cure urethane primers that are really tough and can be sprayed over literally anything... Fresh welds, rust (not scale), galvanized... But that stuff is pretty pricey. Getting into the $100.00 a gallon or more range.
I have the pleasure to have been an industrial painter for a very long time. Our motto "runs don't rust" lol
The industrial enamel self levels pretty good. Brush strokes and roller stipple will lay down as long as you overlap it wet.


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[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Njsurf73

I don't plan on using a primer. The xylene will give it a good bond. But if you want a primer, I am pretty sure any good alkyd primer will work. A chemchromic primer or macropoxy would be Overkill. There are some moisture cure urethane primers that are really tough and can be sprayed over literally anything... Fresh welds, rust (not scale), galvanized... But that stuff is pretty pricey. Getting into the $100.00 a gallon or more range.
I have the pleasure to have been an industrial painter for a very long time. Our motto "runs don't rust" lol
The industrial enamel self levels pretty good. Brush strokes and roller stipple will lay down as long as you overlap it wet.

You're talking way over my head that's for sure. Is the POR15 stuff part of the urethane primers? Whatever the rust inhibitor stuff is.

[Njsurf73]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

You're talking way over my head that's for sure. Is the POR15 stuff part of the urethane primers? Whatever the rust inhibitor stuff is.

I honestly don't know lol.
That's something I never used.
I worked on everything from bridges to sewer treatment plants.... Por15 was never spec'd lol

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[Robin97396]

So... wash them, wipe em down with xyline and try not to get any nervous system damage.

Is the Rustoleum adequate or would it really be worth while to get some really hard as nails paint?