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Old 04-14-2020, 12:17 AM   #21
Skoolie
 
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Well, we sure have gone all over the place in is this thread.

Thank you all again for hoppin’in, and give it a try. A lot of great information.

I shall put my head and hands around injectors valve cover, see what it looks like in there, and if really everything look suspiciously clean, i might take a look at the turbo valve and turbine/shaft before taking out the injectors to look at the o rings.

By then i might think about recapping the situation for it to be more clear.

Until then, i will still be checking in, please any one, i will take any 2cents of clues here, thanks !!

Good luck to everyone

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Old 04-14-2020, 12:51 AM   #22
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You may want to explore that glow plug issue. I have found a few references that seem to indicate that could be it.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...y-yourmechanic

When you say white smoke, is it smoke or steam? From what you have replied that the exhaust does not feel wet on your hands, to me that says that it’s smoke.

Someone also said that you can’t use an ODB2 reader, but you should be able to since it’s a cutaway van. The connector would most likely be under the dash on the drivers side.
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Old 04-14-2020, 01:00 AM   #23
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One other thing. When I drove OTR, commercial trucks I drove not only had the necessary oil feed to the turbocharger for lubrication, some also had a coolant bypass, I presume either to help warm the turbo assembly faster from a cold start, or perhaps to help keep it cool under long periods of boost pulling a hill with a heavy load... Seems possible to me that if a leak develops in that coolant loop, it could possibly spit a little coolant into the turbocharger, which might cause what you're describing. It would have to be a very small leak though, as the turbocharger is pretty much the start of your intake flow. Wouldn't take much more to hydrolock the engine and cause some serious problems. If yours is set up in this manner, might be worth a look.
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Old 04-14-2020, 10:12 AM   #24
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Sounds like a turbo issue.

On the electronic engines, the ecm will pull fuel and you'll lose power if it doesn't show boost on the map sensor.

If you're leaking oil from the waste gate, and seeing white smoke and noise from the turbo, I'd say you're due for a rebuild/replacement. At least remove it from the bus and inspect it for wear or issues.
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Old 04-14-2020, 11:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON View Post
Seems possible to me that if a leak develops in that coolant loop, it could possibly spit a little coolant into the turbocharger, which might cause what you're describing. It would have to be a very small leak though, as the turbocharger is pretty much the start of your intake flow. Wouldn't take much more to hydrolock the engine and cause some serious problems. If yours is set up in this manner, might be worth a look.
I dont think there is any coolant loop to the turbo on this engine. Oil fed from the pedestal sitting on top of it, directly fed by it. All the other line are air lines, and i have 1 exhaust pressure release valve, thats all.
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Old 04-14-2020, 11:58 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
Sounds like a turbo issue.

On the electronic engines, the ecm will pull fuel and you'll lose power if it doesn't show boost on the map sensor.

If you're leaking oil from the waste gate, and seeing white smoke and noise from the turbo, I'd say you're due for a rebuild/replacement. At least remove it from the bus and inspect it for wear or issues.

Thanks Booyah,

The loss of power actually happens exactely when the boost should kick in. Instead it “kicks out”. More and more convinced about the issue being located in the turbo. Either waste gate pressure valve, of the shaft bearing. I’ll inspect that piece in detail.
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Old 04-14-2020, 12:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo View Post
You may want to explore that glow plug issue. I have found a few references that seem to indicate that could be it.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...y-yourmechanic

When you say white smoke, is it smoke or steam? From what you have replied that the exhaust does not feel wet on your hands, to me that says that it’s smoke.

Someone also said that you can’t use an ODB2 reader, but you should be able to since it’s a cutaway van. The connector would most likely be under the dash on the drivers side.
Thing is with yourmechanic.co is that everything can cause your issues with them and the conclusion is always to make and appointment to have a mechanic look at it. I dont trust disguised courtesies so much ^^ Ed.Burneys can lick my bus’s exhaust if appreciated ;)

(Sorry for the slight digression)

If the plugs were the issue, im assuming that code would pop up eveytime, like my issue, which is absolute not the case

Thank you though
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Old 04-14-2020, 12:20 PM   #28
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Almost forgot,

I dont know what is in that smoke, but it smells not like steam when clouds come out !!

If their ever is stream, is just a little, that i assume is do the condensation. Pretty humide where im staying.

Thank for helping pointing that out !
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Old 04-14-2020, 12:24 PM   #29
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couple things here.. im confusied by some responses..



1. the 7.3 is a NON EGR ENGINE... there is no EGR cooler.


2. oil running down the up-pipe. or leaking from the wastegate.. i dont even see a wastegate..


3. EBPV.. is a valve down near the pedestal of the turbo.. it is designed to operate when the engine is cold and will definitely rob power. and "choke out " the turbo. if its malfunctioning..


4. oil on the Up-pipe.. is rather unusual, but if the turbo is failing... the bearing is failing and the seal has failed the turbo will burn oil in the exhaust.. id expect to see smoke under power and then lingering smoke at idle.. with a "raw oil burn" smell from the exhaust..


5. Injector O-ring. a failed injector O ring can cause a couple issues.. as the HPOP builds oil rail pressure, a bad O-rimg can either cause oil to leak into the fuel rail, or back into the valve cover.. or possibly (unlikely) into the cylinder..



the dropping of HPOP pressure would cause loss of power... if it leaks int othe fuel rail, white smoke would be possible,



are you losing oil level? it seems like with a bad turno or injector O-ring you will notice your oil level going down..



a scan tool should help with the possibility of it being an O-ring as you can watch the HPOP and desired capacity of the IPR to see if the numbers are 'off' from the norms..



you can remove the turbo and take it to a turbo shop to have it inspected for bearing wear, end play, seal failure, etc.. these turbos are common in the aftermarket and can be rebuilt by any reputable diesel shop.



-Christopher
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Old 04-14-2020, 09:08 PM   #30
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Hi Christopher !

Thank you for bringing in some if your wisdom here

So, i just fell on a very interesting post about EBP Valve, especially -Nathan- showing their EBPV-free pedestal that is replacing the old one.
https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...-it-do.234909/

It seems to me that the main issue i have could very much be the EBP Valve that is stuck close on my pedestal. All symptoms point hardly in that direction.

Does some one know if the EBPV is oiled by any means ? And/Or if their is a possibility that the back fire is just jerking oil even more when i push the gas pedal half way to the floor ?

I feel their is only one way to find out

Just double checking my understanding. If my butterfly valve isnt opening anymore, unpluging the EPR valve wont change a thing, right ? Im about to figure out i guess
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Old 04-14-2020, 11:29 PM   #31
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The 7.3L in a van doesn't have a waste gate or an intake air cooler like the F series pickups do. They wouldn't fit in the cramped E-van engine room.

Oil on the up pipe does suggest that there may be an oil leak coming from the head. Most likely a leaky injector O-ring. It also tells you that the donut seals on your up pipes are due to be replaced.

The EBPV (exhaust back pressure valve) is controlled by a linkage running from the turbo pedestal. If memory serves you can unclip the linkage and turn the bell crank by hand then start the engine and see whether the sound goes away.

The picture below shows the bell crank directly below the band clamp at the down pipe. I removed my EPBV and sealed the hole where the linkage exits the pedestal.

Look for oil at the tail pipe which can be a sign of leaking turbo seals. Pull the rubber elbow at the inlet and check for end play in the turbo shaft. If you remove the turbo, mark your band clamps because they are not identical. Rebuilding the turbo is fairly easy. Many of the online diesel shops sell rebuild kits.
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Old 04-17-2020, 09:44 PM   #32
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All right all, you deserve to know the surprising thruth !!

Not the head gasket, not the injector rings or cups, not the turbo or the EBP valve, not the MAP sensor, and no error code.

I have to go back thru the thread to see if someone figured out before telling you how i got this hole smoke/power loss/oil leak fixed, thanks to the powerstroke community.



Thank you all !!!
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Old 04-17-2020, 10:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M@tt View Post

Found ICP sensor, unpluged it, not my issue here apparently.
So, actually .. took the sensor out, filled with oil (!!)! Now the appearance has a new perspective, went to find a new one.

Problem fixed !!
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Old 04-18-2020, 02:22 AM   #34
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So glad you figured it out ... and it was a relatively simple fix. All the better.
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Old 04-19-2020, 12:19 PM   #35
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Thank you Native,

&

Thank you all for your support !
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Old 04-20-2020, 04:55 AM   #36
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Hello Matt. Im so sorry about your engine trouble. But maybe you can be the answer to my question. Im DEEPLY committed to buy the same make and model of the bus that you have purchased. I want it to make into a home for myself. Ive been trying DESPERATELY to find the dimensions of the bus so I can start digitally designing the inside of it on SKETCHUP. The floor plan. I want to get a idea of what everything is going to look like and where everything should be placed. That way when im ready to start building I will be better prepared. Ive tried looking uo the dimensions and even messaged/contacted a few people but nothing has come up yet. I know its alot to ask but my I PLEASE get the dimensions to your bus so I can start designing my future? Thank you again for ur time.
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Old 04-20-2020, 10:13 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Dinki6801 View Post
That way when im ready to start building I will be better prepared.
I feel you .. having bin way unprepared for THE adventure (first skoolie, first domestic engine, first diesel, first ICP !!!, etc ...)

The best i see that i can do to help you is to picture the own initial sketch i made when i started projecting things raw from inside.

Hopefully some numbers might get usefull.

Keep in mind, my mothership is a 2002 Thomas built E450, for sure higher of clearance and probably 10” longer than the five window one with all five windows indentical. I have on one side a 10” longer window, and on the other side, a door. Use to carry special needs equipment and a wheel chair lift.

Other than that, pretty conventional size. From memory. Cabin excluded im at 8’ wide and 16’ long.(?)

Lets look at that sketch ^^

Good luck
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Old 04-20-2020, 10:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M@tt View Post
So, actually .. took the sensor out, filled with oil (!!)! Now the appearance has a new perspective, went to find a new one.

Problem fixed !!
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Glad it was a simple fix.
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:08 PM   #39
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Thank u. This helped me so much. Happy Journeys
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Old 04-21-2020, 10:41 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M@tt View Post
So, actually .. took the sensor out, filled with oil (!!)! Now the appearance has a new perspective, went to find a new one.

Problem fixed !!
I'm surprised unplugging it didn't solve your issue.

But, I guess every time I've tried the unplugging trick it was due to a no-start, not a sudden loss of power issue. I still wonder what the deal is with the white smoke is, unless that was just the leaking oil being burned off the exhaust pipes.
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