2002 Ford E450 7.3l Power loss, no smoke or fluid leak ?? :(

[M@tt]

Originally Posted by E450Shorty

Did the ICP sensor have oil in it? if so it is failed and needs to be replaced also.

Even if my icp sensor is 6 months old ??? Cleaned nicely inside with paper tissue and cue tip being very carefull. The oil inside was relatively clean :’(

Sure was a heck of a limp home ..

Still thinking about valve harness connection also ..

[M@tt]

Also, something happened today.

Was reading: https://www.thedieselstop.com/thread...e-first.75094/ Going thru testing my GlowPlusRelay.

Weird thing, no volatge at opposite of “always hot” pole with keys on, and will actually turn on and show voltage (around 11v) when i do the small pole grounding test. Which kinda blows my mind ..

Any suggestions ??

Not really understanding what it implies either than what i read on the post. Test glow plugs.

Now im stuck between ICP sensor and faulty glow plugs, or valve harness, or an electric default somewhere between the ICP, the GPR, and my glow plugs .... ((

BTW, i am back to engine crank but no start.

[M@tt]

A prayer for Lil’Bus, & Matt ^^’

[cadillackid]

There are so many crap aftermarket parts for these floating around.. just ask guys about having the elusive black CPS .. they were made by IH and were really the best ones.. lots of crap out there..

The ICP or IPR with oil in the connector won’t cause a no start, in fact you can unplug a suspected faulty ICP and the computer will use a default value and run the engine. It might run a little funky and low on power but won’t miss or shake or be particularly rough.

If you have a meter then you can have someone Turin on the key or maybe you can test through the doghouse on a van. The glowplug relay. You should have voltage on one large terminal all the time. When you go key on you should have voltage on both large terminals for about a minute or so, this varies with temperature.

[M@tt]

Ooh ok, thanks for the GPR terminal info. Now i know exactly the origine of the smoke coming from turbo intake after cranking, saw that while test yesterday. Interesting stuff.

CPS brand new.

Leaving IPC sensor alone, brand new also.

Focusing on valve cover harnesses. From two days ago, when my engine fired back like a princess, to here, all i tweaked that day was both valve harnesses and the IPC sensor + connector (now OEM brand new also).

Really hoping thats my issue ..

[M@tt]

Okaaaaay,

So before taking out my valve covers for the second time this week, inspected PCM module looking for eventual broken pin, no luck there.

Went on for a first UVCH test.

After easy continuity test, found the pin for glow plug 5 was lighting weird. Opened valve covers to test my harness connection, ohmed out great. Then i ohmed out glow plugs, i found out p0675 was telling me glow plug #5 was dead pretty much, which was. All the others checked out fine, still changed all 8.

0 DTC left.

Got everything back together, fired like a princess.

That was yesterday evening. This morning, fired like a princess, until.

Drove for like ten minutes, weird misfire sound, and almost stalled on the road, again. Made my way to a parking lot, and scanned before cutting engine off. Pulled p1316, IDM related fault.

So i just re ohmed both UVCHarnesses, and they ohm out all very fine .. which leaves me with a new issue.

I might open a new discussion thread to not get every things mixed up :/

Thank you all for your help and support !

And good luck to every one !

[M@tt]

Also going to unplug again ICP to check if im not all ready on default value.

Thumbs up y’all =)

[Jocelyn]

Yikes hope you can get it fixed soon!

Have you checked the IPR? Resealing it is on my to-do list.

[M@tt]

Nop have not since it “looks” ok, but im done trusting things upon looks. Letting engine cool down before i get testing more stuff.

Is there a way someone might be able to explain how ICP, IPR, PCM, and IDM relate and fonction together ??

From my understanding ICP sensor tells IPR valve thru IDM module what pressure injectors should be functioning thru the PCM module.

Could someone confirm or correct me on that side ??

Lovely knowledgable Shorty, are you here ?

[M@tt]

All right, just realized from the wiring diagram that there is quite a big difference between the GPCM and the PCM, which i mixed up .. :/

Any ways, back to a P1316 when cranking.

[E450Shorty]

hmm. Its possible the tinnerman nut is loose on the IPR. its also possible that there is something iffy inside the IDM. You could pull it out and inspect for water intrusion by moving it around and listening for sloshing noises. They are known for getting water inside them. I had to replace the IDM on my bus when i bought it.

[M@tt]

Crazy night had me studying the electric powerstroke engine diagram with a Ford trouble code help guide. Absolutely helpfull

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/attac...6&d=1528769914

Thank you roach, thank you shorty ;)

Here’s what i found out. My intermittent p1316 is telling me that there is an issue BETWEEN IDM and injector circuit.

So i just took a look real quick under my uvch pig tail on passenger side. Its been always sitting directly on the engine. I’d like to share a picture of it.

For now i feel like doing cheap duck tape and paper fix, we’ll see how far i go ^^’

[M@tt]

Might not be that clear on the picture, but i can see clearly one or two bear wires that must be having all the fun in the world grounding my IDM as soon as engine starts shaking.

[E450Shorty]

That is most likely the problem. Electrical tape is a better solution. But ideally that needs to be spliced with new wires. Eventually the water will get in there and corrode the copper.

[roach711]

I've used some "liquid electrical tape" on hard to reach wiring repairs and they've held up well. The liquid stuff seals the wires better than electrical tape.

You may have had some critters hanging out in your engine compartment.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[M@tt]

: )))

Thanks for advices !!

I went for dollar store ducktape, and cardboard recycle from dorman butt connector package until i fix that better.

Thinking about trying that liquid stuff.


Thank you Thank you Thank you

[M@tt]

I might order the 50$ connector at ford though .. ^^’

Sharing this nicely horrible pictured one, for the records.

[M@tt]

Also thinkin’bout using those 9 connectors left from that box and redo that connection my self for 5$

I’ll let the mother house know what works, what doesn’t

[roach711]

Looks like what the damn squirrel did to a few of my wires until he bit into a battery cable and offed himself.

[M@tt]

Got everything back together.

Still cranking but not starting. No more code, unless i unhook the passenger harness i just re furbished. Then p0671,p0673,p0675 and p0677, and they disapear when i replug it.

So i went on opening the 42 pin plug in front, and ohmed it with nice bear coper homemade extention pic for the volt meter to fit in the small plugs.

Using this nice helping picture