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Old 07-21-2020, 05:55 PM   #1
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2002 Ford E450 7.3l Power loss, no smoke or fluid leak ?? :(

Hi every one,

Its Matt, again, still new to the school bus and diesel world, going through new complications, on my 2002 Ford E450 7.3l (Thomas Short Bus).

Was riding fine for two hours, before the gas pedal started responding weird after an other half hour of cliff riding off Big Sur. Next hill almost got me to a stop, like the engine started chocking. Barely made it to the next pull out, engine died on me when i left off the gas pedal.

The engine would turn back on with a really bad idle, almost no propulsion, and had to press gas to keep the engine running. Had it cool down for two hours, same thing.

This morning thought, first start, turned on with the same bad idling for a minute, then it started idling like a champion for 30 seconds, until i pressed a bit on the gas, started idling very bad again, and since.

Will keep the post updated every now and then, almost no signal out here.

Thank you all for any attention.

=)
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Old 07-21-2020, 07:15 PM   #2
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well could be 500 different things......

read for any codes recorded by the engine computer. IF there are codes record them. Clear all codes.

that is the first step.

then you have a series of questions to answer, based on those answers you have other work to do.

when is the last two times the fuel filters were changed. from now how many miles/time since last filter changed? between the last filter change and second to last filter change, how many miles/time since changed?

william
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Old 07-21-2020, 07:26 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
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Might sound stupid but check your oil level. These engines need oil to run. Then there are a host of sensors to check. But my best guess is oil level or clogged fuel filters or pickup screens in the tank.
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Old 07-22-2020, 09:21 AM   #4
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=)

High everyone !

Thanks for being around this.

—> So here is Episode#1 of the adventures of Lil’Bus just a couple months back : https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f34/2...oss-30818.html

Side-note: As we saw in Ep#1, the scan had not been so helpful .. I do need one though, always a good starting point. Also, i only drove about a couple hundred miles since i fixed my exhaust fumes problem.

—> A scan will probably show codes. Im catching a ride to go get one today.

Right now it sounds like firing only half of my 8 injectors, the noise is so bad it’s hard to hear what’s doing what. But for sure, passenger side sounds bad.

—> The oil level is very steady since i flushed it a couple months and couple hundreds of miles.

Can’t wrap my head around the fact it started idling great for a minute before i touched the gas pedal again ..

—> That makes me thinks of a clog of fuel of some sort. Could the pump that supplies the fuel bowl make those kind of symptoms ??

I did play around with serpentine belt at some point, after i removed AC (no need to bypass), but it did not seem to affect the issue i have right now, so far.

Thank you again for following the thread here
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Old 07-22-2020, 11:51 AM   #5
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Update

Hi again,

Engine cranks but doesnt start this morning. Plus, noticed that leak that smells like fuel, drips when cranking. Its coming from behind the passenger side cover gasket, where the fuel line connects to the engine.

Need help :/
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File Type: jpeg 5717BF9B-7E1B-4F4D-96B0-9F54E2827B4A.jpeg (183.0 KB, 8 views)
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Old 07-22-2020, 03:56 PM   #6
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most likely the under valve cover harness has come loose or unplugged. It is also possible there is damage inside the valve cover. This is relatively easy to check if you can reach them. The plugs are in front of the turbo about halfway towards the front of the engine. Give them a wiggle and see if anything changes. If you have to change those harnesses it is a weekend job it you are handy. ONLY BUY INTERNATIONAL OR FORD REPLACEMENT HARNESSES. The dorman versions have been know to be bad out of the box.
That fuel line leak isn't ideal but shouldn't cause the issues you are explaining unless it is gushing out of there. Dieselorings.com sells those here https://www.dieselorings.com/7-004-p...e-sleeves.html
the issue i still suspect you are having is this problem shown here...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19216921
this isn't easy if you have a finished floor. If you are lucky like i was you will have a fuel tank access hole in the floor behind the rear axle. I did this mod on my bus and it runs much better.
Any more questions i will help as best i can. Good luck!
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:40 PM   #7
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Thanks a lot for all the info Shorty !
Great paper about the fuel “Hatch”. Dont have trap but, i read about that before, and i might have to end up making one my self.

Just wondering, the fuel pump is the pump that fils my fuel bowl and makes a little sounds when you turn the contact on, right ?

Im looking for infos about the serpentine belt of this engine, some kinda of shop manuel. The owners manual if find are all accessorial stuff that doesn't educate me much about mechanic specs and what not.

First, im going to run some scans so i can give and get feedback out of it and maybe clear some space of mind here ^^’

The harness on passenger side is also a guess i have that i need to check. The connector is definitely dirty, going to clean it up a bit.

Sorry about going all directions here, as always, and thanks again for the support !

May we all swim in the river of fortune !

Long live short buses !!
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Old 07-22-2020, 05:23 PM   #8
Skoolie
 
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the fuel pump should be directly under the driver door. it is electric. If the bowl is filling chances are the pump is still fine. But checking fuel pressure would be a good idea too. you need an adapter to see what the pressure is at the fuel bowl. the belt routing should be the same as a standard econoline van https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...002-7-3-a.html
What do you need to know about the belt?
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Old 07-22-2020, 06:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E450Shorty View Post
What do you need to know about the belt?
Trying to understand what the other poulies than the alternator, the AC pump, and tensioner ones are. Especially trying to understand what the two big central poulies are and how they relate to each other with what seems to be a power steering related pump and a vacuum pump that seems to only be going to a wired sensor.
They certainly moved when i checked the belt after changing ICP sensor .. : /

Probably sounds as mysterious as the idea i have of it from here ..
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Old 07-22-2020, 06:30 PM   #10
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clockwise from alternator, 1. alternator 2. idler 3. a/c compressor 4. vacuum pump 5. power steering 6. water pump/ fan 7. crankshaft 8. belt tensioner which has 2 pulleys.

It's possible (but unlikely) you have dual alternators. Which would put that in between the crankshaft and the tensioner.
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Old 07-22-2020, 06:53 PM   #11
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Thanks !

Do only have one alternator.

Does it mater if the poulies ever turn when i change the belt ??
Some time the vacuum poulie will have a more/less of a return spin when i release tension. Is that normal ??
The idle pulley is a sort a dummy pulley in this case ? Meaning its not running anything in the engine.
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:16 PM   #12
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The vacuum pump turning back a bit is normal. And yes the idlers do nothing other than change the direction of the belt.
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Old 07-23-2020, 03:34 PM   #13
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Hi William,

About the second last filter change, i did not get that info from the seller who said i better do the fluids and filter changes so i can have a clear idea.

Last filter change was 6 months ago, driven 250 miles.

Side note: OBD wireless scanning tools is not working where the bus is broken down due to lack of signal ... U—U’

I’ll have to keep working on getting codes somehow.

Thanks for insights anyways.
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Old 07-23-2020, 03:35 PM   #14
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Thank you for the infos Shorty.
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Old 07-23-2020, 06:41 PM   #15
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1/2 of 8 injectors.. IDM module comes to mind.. or under valve-cover wiring harness.. the 2 things I see cause this issue the most...
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Old 07-24-2020, 02:16 PM   #16
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P0683
P0675
P0306
P1316
P0381
P0113
P1211

Some stopped by offer me a minute free on scan, those codes came out with only contact on.

I did have at that moment my crankshaft position sensor and air intake temperature unplugged.

Did have a couple months back a cylinder4 misfire code that disappeared. Thinking about replacing valve harnesses and connectors at some point, but could they give me such symptoms ?

The CPSensor is 15 years old, did pull it out and on my way to replace it. It sounds like what i experienced seems in different ways corresponding to failure of CPS.

Fingers crossed ..
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Old 07-26-2020, 03:36 PM   #17
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Ok, so after looking under both valve covers, figured might as well look at ICP sensor ..

Only had the sensor swapped last time, and the goo from the connector actually just made its way down to the sensor. Got both “cleaned” (sensor easier than connector), Lil’Bus started back perfectly, for a couple miles, with 0 dtc.
Drove the last 5 miles with connector unplugged, waiting for my new connector to get at the store.
Should be back on the road before sun sets

Thank you all again for your support ! Good luck to everyone !!
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Old 07-26-2020, 03:39 PM   #18
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Just FYI,

For my 2002 e450 7.3l, code P0675 (misfire) has definitely be THE error code that comes out when im having trouble with ICP sensor.

Fair well ... enough =)
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Old 07-26-2020, 08:57 PM   #19
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So pissed about my Dorman connector ...

Needs to be forced in, to not even work properly. Worked better yesterday with no connector at all ..

Have to wait tomorrow to try to find the OG one at Ford ..

Read on the valve harness page (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19216921) to not trust Dorman’s cause they were known to be garbage out of the box.

It seems none of there electronic is worth trusting.

If the OEM connector solves my issue, Dorman will hear about Lil’Bus for one last time, giving them a peace of mind, just a piece.
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Old 07-27-2020, 07:00 AM   #20
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Motorcraft or International for anything engine related for sure. A few dollars more will work out in the long run every time. Glad to hear you got it running again. The engine computer will run on assumed values for when a sensor is unplugged or fails. Its more of a "limp you home" mode then a long term solution.

Did the ICP sensor have oil in it? if so it is failed and needs to be replaced also.
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