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Old 11-30-2018, 03:45 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 7.3l IDI
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coolant change in 7.3 IDI

After a bit of a delay I'm back at it.
Been too busy to work on or even drive the bus.

I'm getting ready to change the coolant in the auction bus I bought 6months ago.
I've been reading up on coolants and it sounds like I need one that meets ATSM D-6210.

I found one, at the local napa or o'reiley store.
Its "Peak final global extra life". Its got all the right words,
<https://www.peakhd.com/wp-content/uploads/img_upload/Final%20Charge%20%20Red_Spec%20Sheet_hires.pdf?x38 462>

The only thing that got my attention was that it was an organic acid technology.


It says I can mix it with the "green" stuff but only to a 25% contamination level.
I'm planning on replacing as much of the fluid as I can.
The manual say this engine, 7.3, has an initial fill capacity of 31.2 qts, thats 8 gallons.
If I get atleast 6 gals out I should be OK.

I guess if I get less than the 6 gal out; I could fill with water, circulate it with the engine to dilute it and then drain again. I'll have to do some high school math to see
how often I have to repeat to get it below 25% Its been a while.

Does anyone know anything about it, is it any good and is my plan sound?
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:28 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
when I changed my coolant I flushed the system out with the hose and then poured distilled water down the heater outlet on the top of the head and let a couple gallons run out.... radiator drain was open and the heater loops were drained dry, flushed with the hose and blown out with an air compressor.. I then filled with AMSoil polyorganic coolant which is supposed to be good for all the navistar / ford diesel engines and doesnt need SCA..
-Christopher
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
when I changed my coolant I flushed the system out with the hose and then poured distilled water down the heater outlet on the top of the head and let a couple gallons run out.... radiator drain was open and the heater loops were drained dry, flushed with the hose and blown out with an air compressor.. I then filled with AMSoil polyorganic coolant which is supposed to be good for all the navistar / ford diesel engines and doesnt need SCA..
-Christopher
what color is that amsoil stuff? and how much per gallon?
I want to run the BEST in this new Cat of ours. I haven't even checked what kind I'll need.
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:40 PM   #4
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its red.. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...gn=ProdSummary


thats for a case of 4 gallons.. its a pre-mix.. you can get discounts, I called the AMSoil rep that bill hewitt recommends on powerstroke help and got a discount when I bought it.



my bus loses very little coolant.. since ive done the flush in early 2017 ive only added maybe a 1/2 - 3/4 gallon or so..



you camn ask him if its approved for caterpillar.. its supposed to be approved on a lot of engines.. all the navistar / ford V-8s for sure.. and probably the DT;s. so id guess the cats as well..



to the OP ive got a bunch of that final charge in my garage i'll never use.. i bought it thinking its what i needed in my DTA360 and its not.. not sure if I can use it in my SUperior or not.. the superior has some gold stuff in it..



-Christopher
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:43 AM   #5
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Your idi should have petcocks on each side of the engine block. Opening those up, draining the radiator, and flushing the heater loops should get you >95% of the old stuff out.

Flushing the heater loops is as easy as removing the hoses from the engine and using a garden hose to push all the coolant out until it runs clean. Run it on low flow so you don't create any pressure in the system.

If you're really concerned, you can fill the entire system back up with water and drain it twice. That'll get you better then 99%.

As far as antifreeze is concerned, I just use the regular green and monitor it with test strips. The new coolants are great but are more expensive then the old stuff and they're use isn't necessary in something that old.
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:18 PM   #6
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
Your idi should have petcocks on each side of the engine block. Opening those up, draining the radiator, and flushing the heater loops should get you >95% of the old stuff out.

...

As far as antifreeze is concerned, I just use the regular green and monitor it with test strips. The new coolants are great but are more expensive then the old stuff and they're use isn't necessary in something that old.

I just had a good look at my engine. I couldnt find any petcocks on the block but I did see 2 small plugs, maybe 1/4 in on the LH side and one bigger on, maybe 3/8 on the RH side. All about level with the freeze plugs.
The two small one look like they have not been touched in 26 yrs, the bigger one on the RH side may have been removed some time in its life.
The small ones had an even small square protuberance that was met for a crescent wrench. I'm betting that I can twist them right off so I dont plan to even try.


I think I will change plans, flush with water the best I can, put fresh green stuff back in and get an anti-freeze tester to adjust to get the right mixture.



I was happy to see that a block heater had been installed. Gives me a reason to mount a generator someplace
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:24 PM   #7
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Join Date: May 2009
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If you put regular ole green back in you need to get the SCA additive and some test strips and keep the levels good
Christopher
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:13 AM   #8
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Join Date: May 2014
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Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
Mine has petcocks, yours might have plugs. The holes in the block are 1/4 pipe, They'll be located near the freeze plugs, I don't have any pics and don't feel like taking any with the weather. To do a full flush you need to remove them otherwise you'll leave about 2 gallons of coolant left in the engine.

Use test strips to test. Most antifreeze testers only check the freeze point. You need to check the ph and additive level as well.

I can look up part numbers for the strips and the additive if needed.
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