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Old 12-10-2016, 11:02 PM   #21
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Fuel Tank

In these truck if you have a metal tank get rid of it ASAP and have a plastic one installed. Have a 99 and just had it done, the early warning sign is a reddish color that resembles fine sand in your fuel filter bowl. If you ignore it it will plug and destroy your fuel pump and sender resulting in a large bill.
Other than that its a great motor have a 550 with 160k and can confirm from a friend who is a mechanic that if properly cared for will go 500k no problem.

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Old 03-13-2017, 03:57 PM   #22
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A few more points about the 4R100 trans.

Many burned out 4R100s got that way when the engine was repeatedly overheated which then overheated the trans fluid. An add-on trans cooler can head off those problems. That and not overheating the engine in the first place.

Most of the reliability problems with this trans came from the F series pickups, not the E series vans. The van engine room is too small for a combustion air intercooler so the 7.3L diesels in vans have been de-tuned to compensate. The F series pickup motors have more horsepower (also better fuel mileage) and pickup owners are way more prone to modify their diesels for more horsepower and then use that horsepower at every opportunity. All this puts more stress on the pickup trans than the average van transmission will ever see.

Obvious warning signs are brown, burnt smelling trans fluid and, if you drop the trans fluid pan, metal bits in the pan and around the magnet inside the pan (you have to drop the pan to see the magnet).

If there are problems with the 4R100 they can be rebuilt to a much higher torque rating relatively inexpensively (Yes, I know that nothing transmission related is ever truly cheap). A properly rebuilt 4R100 is better than a new one and way cheaper in the bargain.
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:32 PM   #23
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Testing Coolant SCA Levels and Radiator Drain Plug Breakage.

Coolant in the 7.3L Powerstroke (as well as some other diesel engines like the T444 International) should be tested for adequate SCA (Supplemental Coolant Additive) levels once a year or so. The SCA prevents coolant cavitation near the cylinder liners which can eventually lead to pinholes in the cylinder liners and coolant leaking into the oil pan.

To test your coolant get some Fleetguard 3-way testing strips. Single strips are available for about a buck-and-a-half or you can get a 4 pack for around 9 bucks. These strips have an expiration date so don’t buy a bunch ahead. Expired strips will give you inaccurate results (I tested this personally). Too much SCA can be harmful so accurate testing is key.

To test the coolant, drain a little into a cup from the drain at the bottom of the radiator on the driver’s side. Use a ¾” wrench or an 8MM or 5/16” allen wrench to unscrew the plug until coolant drains out the spigot then test the coolant according to the directions on the back of the Fleetguard package. If levels are low add Fleetguard DCA-4. See below how to figure out how much.

WARNING – The drain plug is plastic and is easy to break, especially if it’s the original and the plastic has become brittle. When tightening don’t treat it like a steel plug, just snug it down nice and easy. There’s an internal o-ring on the plug that seals off the flow so the plug doesn’t have to be very tight to seal the drain.

If you do happen to break the head off the plug, the internal o-ring will keep the coolant from leaking out but a new plug will be needed (Ford part # FOAZ-8115-A). With the head broken off you can still unscrew the plug with an 8MM or 5/16” allen wrench and control the flow at the drain. When I broke mine I drained the radiator (about 5 gallons), backed out the old plug with an allen wrench then popped in a new plug.

The SCA is sacrificial, meaning that it gets used up as you drive. I found that with my total yearly mileage of 5000 or so, I could test yearly. I flushed my coolant when I first bought the bus and 5 years later have added only a few ounces at year 4.

(from the dieselmanor.com website)

What is the proper chemical SCA concentration for diesel engines?
Basically a chemical concentration of 1.5 - 3.0 UPG (Units Per Gallon) should be maintained in your cooling system at all times. How do you achieve that? Well, this depends on the capacity of the coolant system. For a reference, a 1 pint bottle of DCA4 additive is equal to 5 units.

We recommend that you add up to 2.5 UPG if you don't test the SCA as often as you should. Keeping the level this high will help ensure that the level is at least 1.5 UPG. Ideally you should test the SCA every 4-6 months. If you do, then you can keep the level at a lower level of 2.0 UPG. The benefit of a lower level will help prevent the buildup of particles that SCAs often cause. This buildup can become loose or flake off the water jacket walls, and because it can be abrasive, it will cause damage to your water pump or even clog certain parts of the cooling system like the heater core. A preventative measure that can be taken to eliminate this is the use of a coolant filter.

Example of achieving the proper SCA level.


A 2001 Ford Powerstroke 7.3L has a capacity of 32.75 quarts or 8.2 gallons. To figure out how many units 1 pint of additive will raise the coolant level, divide the 5 units (the amount that 1 pint will give you) by the capacity in gallons (8.2) 5 divided by 8.2 = .61, so this tells you that each pint of additive will raise the coolant level to .6. So if your current level is now at 1.3 and you wish to reach a level of 2.5 you would need to add 2 pints (2pts x .6 = 1.2, 1.2 + 1.3 = 2.5)



Test strips, DCA-4 additive and the new drain plug

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Old 04-11-2017, 04:44 PM   #24
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if you have a 7.3 buolt after 02/99. you can swap it to non SCA coolant like a Peak FinalCharge global, which is an ELC., which doesnt require SCA at all..

the Ford 7.3 (unlike the 444E) doesnt come with a coolant filter which time-releases the SCA additive to keep it up ... if you own a 444E be sure to change that filter every 10-15k miles and test the coolant..

if your 444E / 7.3 was built 02/99 or Before.. then you must use a standard coolant and charge with SCA as roach mentioned..

Or

you can switch to a POLY-ORGANIC coolant.. (Amsoil makes one).. which requires no SCA and is an ELC as well. and will work with the older or newer 7.3's...
-Christopher
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:58 PM   #25
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you can switch to a POLY-ORGANIC coolant.. (Amsoil makes one).. which requires no SCA and is an ELC as well. and will work with the older or newer 7.3's...
-Christopher
What about the 8.3 ?
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Old 04-11-2017, 08:41 PM   #26
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What about the 8.3 ?
supposedly the poly-orgamic ELC's are good in anything... but have to check with Cummins to be sure... they should have a guide on what is useable in any of their engines..

you can also call and talk to Tom, here

Your AMSOIL Online Source

they sell the AMSoil poly coolant... there are others out there that may be good and cost less.. im just using this as a guide... though I'll probably use the AMSoil products as the ford guys (there are a ton of ford guys with 7.3's) seem to have good luck with those products..

-Christopher
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:11 PM   #27
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Any opinions on these mods? (found on another forum)

1) get rid of the very restrictive muffler or replace exhaust system.
2) By now your up-pipes are probably leaking. Fixing it will make a difference.
3) remove the Air intake heater which sits right infront of the turbo outlet.
4) Install a Pyrometer to make sure your new programmer/chip wont overheat your exhaust valves.
5) Add a good programmer/chip.
6) Install a regulated return or fuel crossover (riffraff FRX) to keep #8 injector healthy and to get rid of the cackle.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:58 AM   #28
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Any opinions on these mods? (found on another forum)

1) get rid of the very restrictive muffler or replace exhaust system.
2) By now your up-pipes are probably leaking. Fixing it will make a difference.
3) remove the Air intake heater which sits right infront of the turbo outlet.
4) Install a Pyrometer to make sure your new programmer/chip wont overheat your exhaust valves.
5) Add a good programmer/chip.
6) Install a regulated return or fuel crossover (riffraff FRX) to keep #8 injector healthy and to get rid of the cackle.
the Navistar has the return already.. so id say Yes on the return.. im a fan of it on any diesel.. ..

I dont know if the fuel pressure regulator on the Ford is in the same spot as the navistar (the navistar actually still has a mechanical pump).. but their solution was to go to a 72 PSI regulator, and if that doesnt help then replace the #8 with an AE type... im told the low speed 'knock / cackle' is harmless.

I dont think its ever possinle to completely eliminate cackle in a 7.3, it seems upgraded aftermarket-worked injectors and a programmer that runs them single-shot are what seems to help make power and quiet things down.

on my 444E it doesnt have an air intake heater, just glow plugs.. and it started in 0 degree weather with just 1 cycle and kicked like it was 70 outside.. so it seems if all 8 of your glowplugs are working then the intake heater may not be needed.

if yours is equipped an Exhaust Backpressure Valve that might be a nice delete since it seems all they do is leak oil over time...

-Christopher
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:30 AM   #29
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Thanks for the input...

New question.

My air filter housing has been broken for some amount of time. Everything is running fine, but I'm nervous about damage from dirt. Is there anything that can be done to mitigate the potential damage?
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:59 PM   #30
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Anyone here add an egt probe to their 7.3? If so, where and how did you do it? The exhaust manifold?

Edit: Also, are tranny temps available via obd2 on the e450?
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:27 PM   #31
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I've seen the probes installed on both the driver's side manifold and on the up pipes with a band clamp. Consensus on the Ford Powerstroke forums is that the manifold location is best. I've never done one myself but drilling and tapping the manifold looks like a fairly easy job.

On the Fords, fuel pressure is regulated in the fuel filter bowl and a fuel return line already exists.

New bellows up pipes quieted down my 7.3L considerably. They're an easy install in the e-vans.

Mine doesn't have an air intake heater.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:11 PM   #32
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Drilling and tapping in front of the turbo requires a lot of care. Does not take much metal to totally lunch one. Have heard (on the 4BT Forum) of guys drilling and tapping with the engine running. Supposedly blows any debris back out the drill hole. (?)

Anyone else?
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:16 PM   #33
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The only advice I got about the metal was to get a full set of drill bits and start with the absolute smallest one possible and progress one size at a time so that you're essentially just creating metal dust each time you drill.

Doing it with engine on makes sense when you put it that way.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:22 PM   #34
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I need to do the same on my 4BT. The location is important. Safest bet is after the turbo (in the exhaust) but the temp readings are very different. From what I recall, the best location for reading peak heat is on exhaust port of the rear most cylinder.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:33 PM   #35
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Some put grease on their drill bits and tap to catch the chips. Some did their drilling with the engine running to blow the chips out the hole. I'd use a small pen type magnet stuck up through the hole to pick up any chips inside the manifold. The conventional wisdom is that the tiny chips wouldn't cause any damage if they did go through the turbo. On the 7.3L you're drilling up into the manifold so most chips will fall out naturally.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:09 AM   #36
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with a stock tune is there any need for EGT? though maybe the OP is going to turn it up, I always thought ford kept the stock tune conservative enough that even towing up a hill you wouldnt run into issues..

-Christopher
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:41 AM   #37
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with a stock tune is there any need for EGT?
Probably not essential, but I'm installing one on mine just for peace of mind...
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:44 AM   #38
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I am also primarily looking for peace of mind
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:12 PM   #39
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If you break a drill bit while the engine is running, it's going through the turbo... I think drilling incrementally larger bits is the way to go. Then stick a magnet, or a vacuum up there to get out as much as you can. Most of the chips will drop in your face, anyway.

EGT temps will rise and fall much quicker than oil or coolant temps. They can act as an early warning for catastrophic engine problems, or they might just be telling you that you need a new intake filter, or a big fat exhaust pipe. EGT can also be used to improve driving habits for better fuel efficiency.

Finally, all diesel fan boys love seeing EGT gauges. Instant street cred.
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:10 PM   #40
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yep,




I want larger diameter tires in the hope to bring MPG up a little.
There is potential more lugging of the engine on hills. EGT's will tell me where we are...

As you can see I drilled holes in the Y pipes. A lot easier , may be slightly lower temps?? The thermo couple wires would have to be extended if the probes would be on the bottom of the exhaust manifold.



just a picture while I was at it for documentation sake. 150000 miles no play.

This was part of a fuel damper leak repair in supposingly a multi shot??
The write up is under elfbus. joeblack5

later J
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