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Old 05-02-2017, 05:45 PM   #41
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what are the clamps for? is that what holds the sensors in instead of welding a bung since you are in pipe and not manifold?
-Christopher
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:07 PM   #42
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Hmm... the more I read, the more it seems like post turbo may not be that bad of an option. Slightly safer, slightly cheaper, and slightly easier. Just have to remember that the temps will be on average 200 degrees cooler that pre-turbo, perhaps as high as 300.

Since this is for peace of mind right now and I won't be doing anything crazy, post turbo should be good enough. I think.
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:22 AM   #43
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Hi CK,
Yes the clamps keep the probes in the pipe. The probes are about 1-1/4" long. That parts sticks inside the pipe. Diameter about 1/4" Then there is a little tapered flange that prevents them from going further.
We will see how it holds up against 15 psi of turbo pressure.

It was mentioned new Y pipes with bellows were much quieter. Any reason why that would be?

Later J
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:08 AM   #44
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It was mentioned new Y pipes with bellows were much quieter. Any reason why that would be?
The stock donut seals are prone to leak and when they leak they get noisy.
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:21 AM   #45
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they use donuts and not V-bands?
-Christopher
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:08 PM   #46
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OK that makes sense. Mine started leaking at the slip joint. You could see it as a soot trail along the pipe. Made also a hissing sound.
When I replaced the crunch seal I had to weld up the pipe to reduce the scoring. Next time I will use the bellow pipes.
This
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:09 PM   #47
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The stock pipes use donuts at the top and bottom of the up pipes. The bellowed pipes do away with the donuts. The "Y" adapter and the down pipe both use V bands.

As you can see, the turbocharger area is one of the few mechanic friendly areas of the E-van engine room.

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Old 05-07-2017, 05:51 PM   #48
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I've been trying to complete the coolant flush described in this thread. First problem was the radiator plug was broken (it's plastic) so there was nothing visible outside at all. An Allen head wrench works fine inside, luckily.

Problem 2 is stumping me.

Both block drain plugs won't budge. At all. I've broken 2 1/4" socket heads and just stripped the plug on the drivers side. As in, the square hole is now rounded. PB Blaster didn't help.

Should I just leave it and do extra distilled water plus engine running flushes?

Advice welcome.
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:10 PM   #49
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I never pulled the drains in my 444E, I had the water pump off to replace so I garden hosed like crazy till it all ran clear... then I "wasted" a few gallons of distilled water by just pouring a bunch through it. then I started pouring my AMSOIL coolant pre mix in until I started seeing a little pink coming out the other end.. at that point I figured im better than 99 percent of people out there that fill with tap water.. at 88 cents a gallon for distilled i figured it was cheaper than busting a plug somewhere and having to repair it...

-Christopher
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:14 PM   #50
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Hmm... so as long as the seal is still good, you think I'm okay leaving the stripped plugs in?
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:17 PM   #51
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Hmm... so as long as the seal is still good, you think I'm okay leaving the stripped plugs in?
if they never turned i dont think anything was hurt.. and if they dont leak under heat and pressure id say not touch them
-Christopher
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:45 PM   #52
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I didn't pull my block plugs either. Just used one of the prestone flush kits and let it run until the water came out clear.
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:54 PM   #53
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Okay, while we're on the subject: did you guys replace your working thermostats or the housing, and if you did, did you choose the 203 option?
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:58 PM   #54
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Okay, while we're on the subject: did you guys replace your working thermostats or the housing, and if you did, did you choose the 203 option?
I have a 444E which runs hot and I hate heat in a diesel so I dropped from 192 down to 180 in mine and installed an electromagnet fan clutch..
-Christopher
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:00 PM   #55
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Interesting. I'll probably just go with the $7 part locally then. I've heard the 195 option is too low because you want a diesel to run hot for max efficiency. Why do you dislike heat in a diesel?

The last thing I was doing today was pulling the thermostat. To get in easier, I went to disconnect the air tube going back to the turbo.

Turns out the entire resonator box was shattered the whole time. Talk about sucking dirty air!

Hopefully, they swapped on broken parts when I bought the thing and it hasn't been like that for years. Nothing we can really do at this point but hope its not too bad.

I'm gonna do a blow by test to start and keep researching things I should be checking now to potentially limit damage.
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:12 PM   #56
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I know the ford guys like to run em hot.. but oil thins out and with the high compression you run so close to the envelope of head gasket danger.. most DT360s, DT-466s, etc run 180 thermostats... not sure why a V-8 should be different..

on the T-444E side, the alarm bells go off at 235, as in danger danger shut it off NOW.. supposedly the Oil temperature of 216 or above and it will begin to De-rate..

when climbing hills its not uncommon for your oil temp to run 10-15 degrees above coolant temp... oil of 180 degrees is warm enough to not be too viscous and hurt stuff.. the cooler the coolant the better the poil cooler does its thing..

I know I'll get countered a milliopn times as to why i should run my diesel hot.. my dad still has his navistar scout, 180 tstat and all with 375K + on it...

before I fixed the fan clutch on my DT-360, it would run up to 212-214.. it seemed not as happy... felt like less power.. oil pressure was way down.. now it runs 180-190 or so and is happy.. hard to tell on my 444E it just felt right to go with a 180 Tstat.. to me its an emissions thing.. hotter is less harmful stuff in the air..
-Christopher
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:17 PM   #57
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The 444's have no trouble running hot at high speeds or in the hills.
I'm looking for a 180 or 190 thermostat.
Need to adjust my fan clutch too.
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:20 PM   #58
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The 444's have no trouble running hot at high speeds or in the hills.
I'm looking for a 180 or 190 thermostat.
Need to adjust my fan clutch too.
we can do your fan clutch when im up there next time.. dont know why I didnt think about doing it while you were on the roof riveting away last weekend.. I just have to remember to bring my mirror and little bitty allen keys.. I should be able to do it without yanking it off the bus..
-Christopher
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:35 AM   #59
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Where to buy parts?

Thanks a ton for this amazing thread! New to Skoolie.net and a proud new parent to a 2003 International 7 window with the T444E : ) : ).

Where is everyone buying parts from? Specifically, I can't seem to find the fuel strainers mentioned in the first post. Just fuel pumps/filters. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:02 AM   #60
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I actually end up buying some parts from my local rush truck center which is also the navistar dealer.. they have in stock, or can get, most anything I have found.. prices are decent, though I try to get it online first if I can. as it will be cheaper, but some things are just hard to find..

-Christopher
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