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Old 06-09-2020, 11:18 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: California
Posts: 64
Year: 1967
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: Chevrolet B-Series
Engine: 366 V-8
1967 Chevy B-Series Drivetrain: Overhaul

Hi all,


My beautiful 1967 Gillig bus is based around the venerable Chevy B-Series chassis, complete with a 366 engine, 5-speed transmission, and two-speed rear axle. After it sat for 26 years, I got it running and was able to make the perilous half-mile trip from the previous owner's place to my parents'. More details about this journey will be in my builder's log but I wanted to come here for mechanical advice.


I have a background repairing and restoring classic cars as well as some experience maintenance heavy equipment, so this bus is right up my ally. I plan to complete most of the mechanical work myself but would appreciate some help along the way.


In the next two weeks, I plan to have the fuel tank cleaned and sealed (I was running it off a remote can), rebuild the carburetor, replace the u-joints and carrier bearings, and perform a full tune-up on the engine. In the next month, I will be servicing the entire brake system and replacing wheel seals.


First question would be regarding the carburetor, a Holley 4776-2. I plan to rebuild it but I am wondering if I should upgrade? I'm not looking for power gains, but I am open to improvements for efficiency and engine longevity. Any suggestions are welcome.
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Old 06-10-2020, 12:38 AM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
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Year: 2007
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Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
Sorry I don’t have any experience to help. Congratulations on the bus though.

Post more pics!
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Old 06-10-2020, 06:02 AM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,039
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
Great another classic! I really can not say on the carb. On my International I put Holley pro jection fuel injection on it, and am switching back to a carb. The pro jection unit is no longer supported by Holley, and I am haveing trouble with it.

I do have an air/fuel meter installed and have for now a vacuum gauge installed. Both are really great for tuning any system you have. Great to know what the fuel mixture is, so you can change jets if need be for fine tuning. Also you can see when the power valve opens this way, and see if at wide open throttle there is to much restriction from the carb. and what speed it may or may not be restrictive.

So as long as the current carb works do some test runs as is to get some base line numbers, then work from there.
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:26 AM   #4
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
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the holley carb has the governor built in.. you can drop in a 4 barrel intake and use an edelbrock 4105 / 4106 4 barrel carb which is a nice out of the box easy to tune solution, but the holley is rebuildable and when tuned will be OK.. the 366 is a long lasting engine as long as you dont try to wind it out with High RPM, its not designed for that..





Ronnie for the IH the 4 barrel intake / 4105 carb is a popular conversion from the factory holley.. you'll have to watch your own RPM.. but that 345 can run well into the 3000s and not hurt.. (I wouldnt run any of the IH's above 3800)...


-Christopher
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paddywagon View Post
Hi all,


My beautiful 1967 Gillig bus is based around the venerable Chevy B-Series chassis, complete with a 366 engine, 5-speed transmission, and two-speed rear axle. After it sat for 26 years, I got it running and was able to make the perilous half-mile trip from the previous owner's place to my parents'. More details about this journey will be in my builder's log but I wanted to come here for mechanical advice.


I have a background repairing and restoring classic cars as well as some experience maintenance heavy equipment, so this bus is right up my ally. I plan to complete most of the mechanical work myself but would appreciate some help along the way.


In the next two weeks, I plan to have the fuel tank cleaned and sealed (I was running it off a remote can), rebuild the carburetor, replace the u-joints and carrier bearings, and perform a full tune-up on the engine. In the next month, I will be servicing the entire brake system and replacing wheel seals.


First question would be regarding the carburetor, a Holley 4776-2. I plan to rebuild it but I am wondering if I should upgrade? I'm not looking for power gains, but I am open to improvements for efficiency and engine longevity. Any suggestions are welcome.
Wow that's a bus you don't see often. Nice find! Looking forward to MOAR PICS!
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:53 AM   #6
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Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,039
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the holley carb has the governor built in.. you can drop in a 4 barrel intake and use an edelbrock 4105 / 4106 4 barrel carb which is a nice out of the box easy to tune solution, but the holley is rebuildable and when tuned will be OK.. the 366 is a long lasting engine as long as you dont try to wind it out with High RPM, its not designed for that..





Ronnie for the IH the 4 barrel intake / 4105 carb is a popular conversion from the factory holley.. you'll have to watch your own RPM.. but that 345 can run well into the 3000s and not hurt.. (I wouldnt run any of the IH's above 3800)...


-Christopher
Thanks. My 4 barrel manifold is in pretty poor shape, and since I modified my 2 barrel manifold by boring out the throttle bore to 2" to acommadate the pro jection I want to explore two barrel first. If I do not get real happy with that I will look for a decent 4 barrel manifold and then get the carb you suggest. I ordered a 500 cfm Holley 2300 that should arrive today. NOT the circle track version. Will see what happens.

As engine rpm gets over 3000 vacuum starts climbing pretty good with the 350 cfm. And it feels weak above 3000. Which for me is 70mph. Or 50 in 4th gear, hill climbing mode.
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Old 06-14-2020, 11:29 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: California
Posts: 64
Year: 1967
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: Chevrolet B-Series
Engine: 366 V-8
Thanks for all the replies!


I decided for now I am going to rebuild the current carburetor. The kit is in the mail, but other work continues.


I will be putting in new carrier bearings and potentially new u-joints. I have to go back into the maintenance logs and see when they were last replaced. However, I am having trouble searching for parts for this chassis. When trying to find parts, '1967 Chevy b-series chassis' does not get me very far. Is there a more specific designation that I can use?
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Old 06-15-2020, 05:26 AM   #8
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A 1967 is going to be all old school with zero electronics involved. That can be really good is you are an old school dinosaur like me. But it can be a not so good thing with the really poor quality gas we get and if you expect to run your bus up and won through elevations gains of over 2,000 feet on a regular basis.



You can tune up an old engine like that and get it running like a top on the tank of gas you have and the next tank will be just enough different that it won't run worth a plugged nickel.


If you are wanting to upgrade driveability, increase usable HP, and possibly increase fuel mileage you may want to consider upgrading the dizzy to a GM HEI dizzy and the fuel system to EFI.


Hamilton Fuel Injection has been playing around with making the GM EFI system work on just about any gasoline powered engine. I know he has done some Packards and some Hudsons with Twin H power. Getting an EFI system to work on your engine should be easy peasy.


Hamilton Fuel Injection. Throttle Body Injection Kit
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Old 06-15-2020, 06:33 AM   #9
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Year: 1971
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Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
Just a note, the 500 cfm carb arrived and works great, about 5 mph increase in speed on steep hills. So a measurable difference. Plus still great drivability.

I do think rebuilding the existing carb is a good choice.

I had thought of useing the Hamilton fuel injection. However it is based just like the Holley Pro Jection on the GM two barrel TBI. I am assuming Hamilton has a bit more sophisticated tuning though. Because of the weight of our buses we are running near full power a lot, which of course is to be expected. At full load I really have never found that fuel injection is better then a well matched carb. Where fuel injection shines is at light throttle, and cold weather. So my old dump truck with had a 345 gas engine same as my bus. Empty it got 8 mpg and loaded it did 6mpg with the pro jection. With a carb it was always 6 mpg. I had used it on enough long trips to see the difference. However the bus is always well full? I am at 18,000lbs and that does not change much a few hundred one way or the other. So pro jection or carb and I am not seeing any real difference in fuel mileage. Both carbs, and the pro jection are right around 5.5 - 6mpg

So what I am saying is I am not so sure I could recommend changing to fuel injection as long as you have a good carb.

I had trouble getting the driveshaft carrier bearings for my bus, they are a discontinued part. I hope being Chevy you will not have the same trouble. For U-joints, just take accurate measurements and then you can look up by size what joint you have.
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Old 06-28-2020, 07:28 PM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: California
Posts: 64
Year: 1967
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: Chevrolet B-Series
Engine: 366 V-8
Identifying the 366

Hi all,


I got the carburetor rebuilt with little drama. I have not reinstalled it yet because I am taking advantage of increased access around the rest of the engine without it in the way. Other work on the engine will include replacement of the fuel pump, valve cover gaskets, servicing the ignition system, all new belts and hoses, and a few other odds and ends. My main issue now is that the engine was replaced in the late 80s and I cannot find a stamped id or date code that gives me an idea as to what year the engine is, which is important since the 366 had many production changes throughout its life. Anyone have any clues on this?
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Old 07-01-2020, 02:48 PM   #11
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 3
Year: 1985
Coachwork: Wayne Lifeguard
Chassis: Chevy B60
Engine: Chevy 366
I'm a rookie posting pictures here, but my 1985 Chevy 366 engine code is found in these attached pics:
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File Type: jpg 20200511_231108363_iOS (2)_LI.jpg (265.7 KB, 9 views)
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:03 PM   #12
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Highland Village, TX
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Year: 1985
Coachwork: Wayne Lifeguard
Chassis: Chevy B60
Engine: Chevy 366
I replaced the OEM Holley 4152-EG governed carb with a Holley 4160 (0-1850SA) from Summit Racing. So far it's doing great, but I only have a few neighborhood miles on it since the rebuild.
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Old 07-08-2020, 06:03 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: California
Posts: 64
Year: 1967
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: Chevrolet B-Series
Engine: 366 V-8
Thanks P-Bod for that stamp location. I checked there and a few other places that other online resources mentioned and it looks like I have an unstamped block. There are several machined ledges where the stamp should be, but they are blank. This possibly means that it is a factory replacement block, but who knows. The peanut spark plugs and points ignition narrow it down to roughly 1970-73, assuming that the heads and distributor match the block.
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Old 07-08-2020, 06:22 PM   #14
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
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Posts: 1,201
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
The 366 and truck 427 engines are "tall block" models that require a longer distributor shaft than other small and big block GM engines. So finding an updated HEI factory dizzy to fit in place of your points unit might be challenging today.

Years ago I was able to source a MSD adjustable collared distributor that bolted right in place of the points equipped factory dizzy on an early 366 I once owned. I had to buy their box that tied the dizzy into the ignition system. It wasn't cheap but it worked well for years, never leaving me stranded.
If you go that route, take out your distributor and set it on a bench next to the adjustable collared unit to get a set point for mounting.

Good looking project you have there, as I'm partial to GM products myself!
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Old 07-08-2020, 06:47 PM   #15
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Sometimes the engine #'s get ground off when the block is resurfaced and the original stampings were light--not that that does you any good at this point.
Jack
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Old 07-08-2020, 07:03 PM   #16
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no numbers

sounds like to me a crate motor..... so is not original. I wonder if a 90's era 366 would have all stuff to convert to efi..... just a thought..... It has been a very long time for me about 1984, in souhtern california I saw a 1960's tow truck with tall deck big block and four side draft webers.... built kinda like a cross ram manifold... Fellow said had as good torque numbers at low rpm as a two barrel, but was still good on torque and power up higher..... He also told me about one mile to the gallon better on the highway....

quite a bit of money in four new weber carbs,,,,,, setting the idle has to be a pain...

william
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