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Old 03-22-2024, 07:41 PM   #21
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Central Kentucky
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The only experience I have with Hydroboost brakes was on a 1999 Chevy Astro van. 4.3 liter V-6. Like Booyah said a couple of times, the booster takes up way less space under the hood than a huge vacuum booster. I loved the feel and effectiveness of the brakes. The boat and trailer I had at the time was not very heavy, but I had no problems dragging it on 1300 mile round trips to the in-laws place 3 or 4 times a year.

It stopped on a dime, back when a dime was still worth 10 cents.

If your brakes ain't right, it's because something is wrong, not because of design flaws.

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Old 03-23-2024, 01:17 AM   #22
Skoolie
 
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ok not sure where i can get it looked at, the chevy fleet dealer here lost my keys and put a dent in the bus last week so it is not going back there, will have to find a shop
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Old 03-23-2024, 01:17 AM   #23
Skoolie
 
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will keep this updated as i figure stuff out
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Old 03-23-2024, 02:47 AM   #24
Bus Nut
 
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Year: 1992
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Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
The frame is a 3500, so the pads will also be listed under a 3500.



That said, it's possible that they've got a couple of different versions, and you would want ones that are rated for a Medium-Duty (MD) or Heavy-Duty (HD) 3500 chassis. It would also probably be worthwhile to get some hybrid-metallic brake pads, too.

I've got hydroboost myself on the minibird, and after giving it a service and a flush, I love it... It feels like it's too much brake for the amount of pickup the shortie's got, but I like being able to stop when I need to, even with 13K-14K on the chassis.

If your brakes are feeling like that, you might want to check all the rubber and lines to the brakes as well, it's possible you've got a small leak somewhere in the system. Top off the fluid and bleed as normal if it's low.
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Old 03-23-2024, 03:12 AM   #25
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fluid is never low and it was just flushed at the dealer

nothing leaks on my motor, i am a fanatic about keeping my motors clean and checking them often

i need to do that hydroboost leak down test or whatever it is called

anybody in a with a chevy shorty that has a good mechanic, i just can't find anyone with big enough lifts/shops
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Old 03-23-2024, 11:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vin1 View Post
anybody in a with a chevy shorty that has a good mechanic, i just can't find anyone with big enough lifts/shops

Pretty much anyone worth the price of their tools can work a chevy; finding a shop with big lifts is kind of easy, too, since you can call the shops and ask them about their lifts.



Generally, big truck shops will be able to lift it, although some of them might be wary of working on a chevy.



RV shops should be able to do, as should combination-shops, shops that work on small fleet vehicles like the cable companies that often use 1-ton/Class 3 vehicles up to Class 4/5 vehicles as well. And honestly, brake specialty shops as well--but you'll generally want the smaller shops instead of the quick turn-around chain shops that specialize in doing brakes.
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Old 03-23-2024, 12:39 PM   #27
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hmm that has not been my experience, the gm dealer i usually use cannot get it in there garages or lift it which sucks because i would love to use them

the gm fleet dealer here has been a disaster three service visits in a row

my independant that does my other cars has three shops and does not have any bays/lifts big enough to do it

when i get some time will do some more research but it might just be cheaper to just to ahead and replace all the brake componenets myself than mess with trying to find a shop
hate to waste good stuff but have pretty much come to the conclusion i was going to have to do 90% of repairs and fluid change myself even though i dont want to

i will find someone gm inclined and have them drive it to see what they think
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Old 03-23-2024, 03:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vin1 View Post
gm dealer

Oh...



I'm never talking about dealers when I'm talking about shops.



Dealers are usually rip-offs one way or another; either the shop itself is usually operating under some kind of default policy, or the poor policy comes from even higher up with the way that they restrict access to some components.


While sure, they might know the platform better than many generalists, a lot of time the general policy is to simply swap parts these days, and a lot of the time there will be some kind of software restriction or parts restrictions so that some things are only available to the dealer. Independent shops, on the other hand, can only maintain their reputation as a solid service-provider by knowing how stuff works and making sure that it is fixed right. You can also find the best services in the good specialty shops, so those that specifically focus on something like intake/exhaust systems or transmission shops.



While not every independent shops are great or even good, 100% of the best mechanics I've ever met or known have all been working for independent shops.
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Old 03-23-2024, 04:18 PM   #29
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I absolutely agree except that I have had exceptional service at the Buick dealership for my 2017 cargo van....

have maintained that at the dealer since new and I don't think I've spent more than $1600 in seven years 155,000

even when I want things checked they look it over and say it's fine, they never try to rip me off, I really wanted them to be able to do the bus but they cannot fit it in there
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Old 03-23-2024, 04:58 PM   #30
Bus Nut
 
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Well when you've bought new, that's one thing--especially while the warranty is good. But servicing the new things they've sold is mostly what dealers are for, though.



But I don't buy new vehicles, never have, can't see that I ever will, so that's a different sort of vibe. And I would caution you that unless you've been dealing with them for years for all of your vehicles, you're not likely to have the same experience for a 20 y/o something else.
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Old 03-23-2024, 09:01 PM   #31
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I actually don't mine so much swapping out broken parts but I don't like doing my own fluid changes and having to haul the oil fluid for recycling, too messy
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Old 03-23-2024, 10:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vin1 View Post
I actually don't mine so much swapping out broken parts but I don't like doing my own fluid changes and having to haul the oil fluid for recycling, too messy
Finding and using a "dump container" is what I would always do; a 1.5 gal would do the trick for my rig, but I've seen some others where they found and used a 2-3 gal jug just for that purpose.
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Old 03-23-2024, 10:48 PM   #33
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i'm not sure what that means but like right now I just changed the radiator on the bus and I've got six or eight jugs full of radiator fluid and contaminated water from where we flushed it and I've got to haul 40 miles one way to the only place in Tucson that will take it
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Old 03-24-2024, 03:27 PM   #34
Skoolie
 
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plan right now is to ask a favor of the buck dealer and see if they can have a mechanic drive it and see if they think the brakes seem normal, drove it yesterday and was not bugging me as much

will update this on what they find
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Old 03-25-2024, 08:22 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vin1 View Post
sorry here is the differences between what's going on, the 2017 feels very responsive one or 2 inches of pedal pressure get you a good response, quick modulated braking depending in how hard you stomp on it

The 2008 you have to push it twice as far and it never gets a really good response, yes it stops but they're just not as sensitive or responsive I guess you would say

It's not spongy or soft to push down or hard at all
feels like it's breaking normally just not very responsive and not a super strong immediate braking like the 2017, I guess it could just be pads but I'm guessing that the school bus company knows what pads to put on their buses

I was pretty sure power stop showed an upgrade kit with calipers rotors and pads for this but I thought they were 4 piston but I'll confirm that later
Go back up and read my post 9 and 10. Pay particular attention in post 9 regarding pedal feedback.
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Old 03-25-2024, 11:00 AM   #36
Skoolie
 
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Engine: Chevrolet 6.0 gas motor
thank you, will test some of this

i would be thrilled if i could get the brakes really strong
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Old 04-23-2024, 04:34 PM   #37
Skoolie
 
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Engine: Chevrolet 6.0 gas motor
Wanted to update this with how i got the bus fixed

My Buick dealer had one of their mechanics drive it and he thought the pedal was spongy and that either it had air in the lines or a master cylinder problem or both

Since we were going to have to flush the brake system anyway i opted to go ahead and get a new master cylinder too

When we took the old one off it was wet where it hooked up to the booster, so was leaking a little

Anyway the gm fleet dealer in tucson did a lousy or no job at all flush, every caliper was black fluid
New master cylinder and completely new fluid and the brakes are great and normal now

Thanks for all the help
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Old 04-23-2024, 09:21 PM   #38
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Thank you

I find it very helpful when people also report the solution to the problem.

Again, thank you.

William
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Old 04-23-2024, 09:54 PM   #39
Skoolie
 
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Engine: Chevrolet 6.0 gas motor
Me too, I always try to put whatever the solution/outcome is

I am soooo happy to have decent brakes!!
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Old 04-25-2024, 01:05 PM   #40
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You should treat hydro boost just like vacuum the only difference is one uses vacuum for power the other uses hydraulic for power
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