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03-01-2017, 07:38 AM
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#21
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Well crap.
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03-01-2017, 11:14 AM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,709
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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That looks nasty. I'd start looking at new.
On a side note. Some radiator shops will fix/repair/modify fuel tanks. So if you can't find exactly what you need, try talking to one of those places and maybe they can help out.
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03-01-2017, 03:28 PM
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#23
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828
That looks nasty. I'd start looking at new.
On a side note. Some radiator shops will fix/repair/modify fuel tanks. So if you can't find exactly what you need, try talking to one of those places and maybe they can help out.
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Actually just read about this today. Also read you can treat the tank with electrolysis then coat it with something like ospho.
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03-01-2017, 03:38 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Ospho doesn't really "coat", but it converts the rust.
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03-01-2017, 04:08 PM
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#25
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30kdays
you can treat the tank with electrolysis then coat it with something like ospho.
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This will work amazingly well, the only thing you might have to worry about is if the rust has eaten the original metal down to the point that you get pinholes and cracks in the cleaned tank. Trying to patch a hundred tiny pinholes in a fuel tank is not fun... ask me how I know...
If you go this route I would de-rust with electrolysis and then coat the inside of the tank with por-15 tank repair. I've used several brands of tank liners (red-kote, por-15, kreem, etc.) in lots of motorcycles and cages and por-15, in my experience, has been the most durable.
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03-01-2017, 06:26 PM
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#26
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slaughridge85
This will work amazingly well, the only thing you might have to worry about is if the rust has eaten the original metal down to the point that you get pinholes and cracks in the cleaned tank. Trying to patch a hundred tiny pinholes in a fuel tank is not fun... ask me how I know...
If you go this route I would de-rust with electrolysis and then coat the inside of the tank with por-15 tank repair. I've used several brands of tank liners (red-kote, por-15, kreem, etc.) in lots of motorcycles and cages and por-15, in my experience, has been the most durable.
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Thanks. What about http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm and http://www.barbeepaint.com/solvent-b.html
Have you used either of them?
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03-01-2017, 06:34 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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What a great argument for an aluminum fuel tank!
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03-01-2017, 07:34 PM
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#28
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Wash it.
Looks dirty, but salvageable. Put it in a pickup bed or small trailer. Throw some detergent water in there and a few feet length of chain. remove sender.
Drive around like a madman and chain will scrub inside of tank. Rinse, dump, repeat.
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03-01-2017, 08:21 PM
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#29
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slaughridge85
If you go this route I would de-rust with electrolysis and then coat the inside of the tank with por-15 tank repair. I've used several brands of tank liners (red-kote, por-15, kreem, etc.) in lots of motorcycles and cages and por-15, in my experience, has been the most durable.
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If the tank is solid structurally I'd go with this option. The electrolysis treatment is cheap and easy and the POR-15 is a great coating. Here's a link to the process:
Gas Tank Cleaning using Electrolysis — Page 3
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03-05-2017, 10:53 AM
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#30
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Updates: using electrolysis is working great!
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03-05-2017, 10:54 AM
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#31
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Used a bit of tubing and a rock to keep the iron from making contact with the bottom of the tank.
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03-06-2017, 06:37 PM
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#32
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Before and after of inside the tank
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03-06-2017, 06:41 PM
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#33
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,497
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 72 pax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30kdays
Before and after of inside the tank
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Wow. That turned out awesome.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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03-06-2017, 06:44 PM
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#34
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Njsurf73
Wow. That turned out awesome.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Right?! Left the tank hooked up for about 48 hours then sloshed the acid around inside for about 30 min. There is still some rust on the top of the tank but as you can see the bottom looks brand new! We should have it finished this weekend.
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03-06-2017, 08:00 PM
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#35
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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I'd heard of using electrolysis for rust removal but had never seen the results. That's outstanding, particularly considering how cheap it is to do.
I may have to find a bus sized pool so I can de-rust my undercarriage.
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03-06-2017, 08:54 PM
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#36
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
I may have to find a bus sized pool so I can de-rust my undercarriage.
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You and me both, 'cept I'll need Olympic sized.
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03-06-2017, 08:55 PM
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#37
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 39
Year: 1992
Chassis: Cadet
Engine: 5.7 350 gas
Rated Cap: 35 Passenger or 14,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
I'd heard of using electrolysis for rust removal but had never seen the results. That's outstanding, particularly considering how cheap it is to do.
I may have to find a bus sized pool so I can de-rust my undercarriage.
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Don't be fooled. It would not of come this clean without the phosphoric acid
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03-06-2017, 10:12 PM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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"I may have to find a bus sized pool so I can de-rust my undercarriage."
That is exactly what Jack (aka; Ol' Trunt) did for many of the parts on his 1935 Chevy. He used a large, plastic Kiddy Pool as I recall and had excellent results.
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