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03-03-2019, 01:31 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 5
Year: 1977
Coachwork: AM General
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8v71n with unknown v drive in AM General things to check before driving it.
Hello first post here so I hope I put this in the right location. I am currently in the process of buying a 1977 am general 40 ft converted bus. I have new tires on the way so it can be driven home. I know a little about the Detroit 8v71 but have never seen one in this configuration with the tilted engine and the V drive. It looks much the same as the gm setups I have found in my research.
My question is does anyone have any advice or known problem areas to be aware of before I make the 70 mile (mostly freeway) drive home? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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03-04-2019, 09:10 AM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,707
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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When was the last time it was started and ran? That determines what your next step should be.
Your 2 stroke detroits are really simple engines. Make sure they have oil, fuel, and air and they should run.
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03-04-2019, 11:38 AM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 5
Year: 1977
Coachwork: AM General
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Friday was the last it was ran. Oil looks dark but is right where it should be.The person I am buying the bus from never drove it more than moving it around his property. He did however run it up to temp at least every other month for the last two years. I trust the Detroit to get me there as it runs great. I know nothing about these automatic v drives. All the info I find is for the gm busses. The running gear looks the same but I am no expert. It has the "lazy" style 8v71 with the block laying on its side and the v drive behind it at an angle. Only 3,517 of these busses made so info is scarce. Just like me to buy an oddball lol. Price was right though.
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03-04-2019, 10:18 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,362
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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Is it TomC's bus by any chance? Mind you, his is turbocharged, not an N, which makes it a rarity. Where are you located?
John
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03-05-2019, 12:17 AM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 5
Year: 1977
Coachwork: AM General
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Salkum washington. The bus is in camas wa. We are parked at a Walmart for the night till the tire shops are open. The bus runs and drives great. Its a little intimidating on small roads. Its a model 10240 am general. 102" width is sketchy on small roads in the dark when you have never driven a bus this big. My wife kept calling me to tell me to get off the shoulder and hog the road a bit.
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03-05-2019, 08:15 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,362
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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Easy 2-stroke driving tip - DON'T LUG IT!
Keep the revs at about 1900 when climbing grades, manually shift down to 2nd (if you have a V730 transmission), and use a 3/4 throttle. Never floor it uphill. There's only one gauge that will save your butt, and that's for engine coolant temperature. Watch it like a hawk, especially when climbing. If the temp gauge doesn't work or isn't trustworthy, fix it before driving anywhere.
John
PS - don't lug it.
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03-05-2019, 08:17 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Amen on the coolant temp gauge.
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03-05-2019, 08:23 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,362
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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Oh, one more thing. Use straight 40-weight CF-2 oil only, nothing else. No multigrades, ever. Sulfated ash needs to be no more than 1%, so that means Chevron Delo 100 (not Delo 400), Mobil Delvac 1240, Shell Rotella T (whichever one is CF-2), or whatever else you can find that says CF-2 on the container. If it doesn't say that, don't use it.
See, aren't 2-strokes fun!
John
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03-05-2019, 08:33 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,362
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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If AM General made 3517 of your bus, that's still about twenty times more than Crown made of mine! Mine is, AFAIK, the only fully-converted such bus anywhere, so that means it's unique. Not slightly unique, not unique-ish, not one of a few - I mean the only converted Super II in the whole damn world, and because I can confidentally say that there aren't others in any other dimensions of space-time, it's the only one in the entire galaxy. Now that's unique!
Good luck with yours. They're good 'uns.
John
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03-15-2019, 05:49 PM
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#10
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 5
Year: 1977
Coachwork: AM General
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I got lucky and it came with 4 cases of delo 100 40wt as well as a full filter change. The coolant temp gague does work(both actually) and it is a damn good thing too. We lost the fan belts part way home. I had to make 6 sets of paracord belts and one set out of ratchet strap. Finally found some belts in longview. I would make a set, fire it up and watch the temp gauge drop from the engine bay till it got to about 170ish. Then I'd fire it up and drive another exit up the freeway and watch the temp gauge up front and try to keep my colon from eating the seat! It would warm up and I would pull over and start again. Not much fun with a motor thats not known for liking hi temps. Thanks for the replies.
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03-15-2019, 05:57 PM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 5
Year: 1977
Coachwork: AM General
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John Honestly as far as the on off thing goes I have yet to see any two converted busses that are the same. As far as my buss goes I think it's just not popular. The gm "new look" busses are what was common for the time. Am general didn't stay in the buss biz for long. Honestly the gm looks cooler so I understand. I basically got the GM's ugly fat cousin. Lol.
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03-20-2019, 03:28 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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The 8V-71 in a V-drive is a left turning engine. All of the peripherals are identical to a right turning engine except for the fact the drive gears are reversed.
Make sure that if you are purchasing any parts to mention the fact you have a left turning engine.
The V-730 is a very stout transmission but is limited in capabilities. With only three speeds forward you will discover climbing hills will require using 1st gear a lot of the hill is steep enough or high enough. Some were geared with 2nd direct and 3rd OD. The OD version meant you could really fly but it really limited the hill climbing ability.
Good luck!
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03-20-2019, 04:01 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John
Easy 2-stroke driving tip - DON'T LUG IT!
Keep the revs at about 1900 when climbing grades, manually shift down to 2nd (if you have a V730 transmission), and use a 3/4 throttle. Never floor it uphill. There's only one gauge that will save your butt, and that's for engine coolant temperature. Watch it like a hawk, especially when climbing. If the temp gauge doesn't work or isn't trustworthy, fix it before driving anywhere.
John
PS - don't lug it.
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Don’t lug it at alll
If it is a stick slam your hand in the door to get the right mind set.to drive it. Rev it till it hits the governor shift and repeat.
As siad before don’t lug it.
Watch the temperature
And don’t lug it.
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03-21-2019, 09:13 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 389
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Crown Coach
Chassis: 40ft 3-axle 10spd O/D, Factory A/C
Engine: 300hp Cummins 855
Rated Cap: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seriousracer
Don’t lug it at alll
If it is a stick slam your hand in the door to get the right mind set.to drive it. Rev it till it hits the governor shift and repeat.
As siad before don’t lug it.
Watch the temperature
And don’t lug it.
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Like I always say. Drive 'em like you're mad at them. Most folks don't even understand what I'm talking about, or believe me, they think I'm nuts.....and they're right. Nuts about Detroit 2-strokes. Stomp on the throttle, full fuel, after shifting, and keep it revved up above 1900 and on the governor if you need the road speed. Won't hurt a thing. Smashing my hand in the door is counter productive, I usually need it to shift the damn thing. But I DO have a lead foot and it's planted on the throttle. Do this, and they last for many happy years. Oh yeah, don't get it hot, and don't LUG it. Shortest path to the rebuild shop, and paying for your mechanics' Hawaiian Golfing Vacation.
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03-22-2019, 06:24 AM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 334
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Yah well every truck driver I met that started driving them told me the same thing.
It is amazing when I drive the farm truck some place how many old timers walk over and ask if it is a two stroke.
The other comment is if it starts and runs away ( air box full of oil) go get a cup of coffee till it calms down. If it’s running your gonna haul if not. Well lol.
Oh yah drain the air box every time you start it.
Otherwise it could get exciting. Co2 fire extinguisher to shut it of if the emergency stop doesn’t work.
And don’t lug it.
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