How do I resurrect a 6V92? - Page 4

o1marc · 11-13-2019, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mtrdrms

Can anyone tell me what batteries came in this thing? 8D? Amps?

Mine had 2 Group 31, one had 3 8D's. 2 or 3 of each should be sufficient, depending on temp region you live in.

Crown_Guy · 11-14-2019, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mtrdrms

Can anyone tell me what batteries came in this thing? 8D? Amps?

You've asked this already and I've answered it.

I don't sense you're reading and fully comprehending what I'm saying. Take the time to absorb my posts. You're all carried away with the vision and excitement of what you can do with the bus, I get that and know the feeling.

But look at it from the buses' point of view and try to get a feel for what IT wants to do TO you.....It wants to have everything wrong with it fixed so it's all healthy and brand new again and it'll settle for nothing less, no matter the cost. After all it's not it's money...

Just ask any commercial operator about how they talk among themselves when we aren't around. You're no different but without the cash flow from commercial revenue operations.

MCI's are 24V neg. ground and they come new with (2) 8D batteries. Most common is the 1100 amp/hr with a 12-1300 amp/hr slightly heavier duty one available for a little more. Plan on at least $175 each if you're lucky and can find a good wholesale battery place. Full price retail outlets will try to get over $200 each. Beware. I usually budget around $500 for a set of batteries and look for good deals.

These are wired in series to get the 24Volts so you only have the 1100 amp/hr rating available, not like other buses where the two 8D's are wired in parallel for a 12 volt system which doubles the available current to 2200 amp/hr. See.

Don't screw around, or try anything else but a pair of REAL 8D's, just don't.

You can't cheap your way out of having the best, strongest batteries you can get.

This is only the beginning of how Coaches will work so hard to take ALL your money. And, yes, the 24v Delco 50DN 225 Amp alternator is about $1500 to $2k depending on how good a deal you can find.

Group 31's and all the other stuff won't do it when the chips are down. Even though a Detroit Diesel WILL start right up in a single revolution as previously stated. If it's been sitting and cold soaked, maybe lost it's prime, water/crap in the fuel, the lower compression of the 6V-92 turbocharged engine will require quite a bit more cranking before it's hot enough in the cylinders to light off and start running. I drive one pretty regular and it usually takes 2-3 seconds to start up, and it's warm here and in great condition. This cranking is a terrible drain on the batteries and you should never crank it for any more than 5-10 seconds at a time. Wait a few minutes before trying again.

The batteries will need to recover as well as the starter to cool down. If it doesn't start after 3 or 4 attempts or sound like it's trying to start....Then STOP, you have a problem that needs to be located and fixed before attempting another start. This process will kill a fully charged and healthy set of 8D's in no time at all. I've seen it before and know the sinking feeling of a DD not starting right up almost before you can let go of the key. If it balks you have issues. DON"T crank and kill the batteries.

Another good question to have answered is if the engine is a DDEC or pure mechanical one. It'll be a definite issue to know about if it won't start. You might get lucky with a mechanical engine but I don't how many of them are really out there. I think it went to DDEC control pretty early in the 6V-92 engines after the pure mechanical 8V-71's which I'm more familiar with. It's not a good or bad thing but you'll need to know in order to proceed with repairs.

No one is trying to scare you, really, merely trying to hit you with a 2x4 between the eyes to get your attention. Now that we have your attention. Scared is good though, you should be plenty scared and have an overwhelming fear and respect for the dangers to your bank account a recalcitrant and hungry highway coach can deliver.

The MCI 96A3 (96" wide, not 102") is a really good fleet owners workhorse with a great reputation, a nicely re-styled and upgraded MC-9 which was fantastic, and was built before all the super complicated computerized modern systems in use today. These truly do suck and will leave you high and dry somewhere on the road, with passengers, until you turn off the batteries and re-boot the whole damn bus, just like MS windows, oh yeah that's really a fun time.

Did I mention the battery cut-off switches?? MCI's all have them. It'll be located in the same compartment as the batteries, pretty hard to miss, labeled "ON" "OFF", nice, plain lever with a black knob. Nothing works until it's "ON". Always park it and turn off the batteries before you leave, just to be safe, or you may find a dead battery(s) when you return.

MCI's don't have frame(rails) as such as other trucks and "skoolies". They are essentially a single stress bearing internal structure inside with the perimeter and bulkheads forming a single uni-body box with the running gear attached, and outer decorative and protective skins riveted in place. They do rust and you'll find corrosion is the most likely enemy of most all older coaches even though they have a large amount of stainless steel and aluminum in the body work. Road salt and regular corrosion really does a number on aluminum. You should check for this since it can fatally weaken the bus and make it almost impossible to repair.

You asked for an idea of what to look out for and how to know what might be wrong. The simple answer is that there really isn't any way to know sometimes without taking the plunge and giving it a try. But if it looks all nasty and rusted and the doors and latch handles don't want to open properly, and the engine is reluctant to start, and the air system when started won't build air and the suspension air bags won't lift the bus up,(it'll come up about 3-5 inches if all is well). Or the DD3 parking brake, which it most probably will have, by the way, which you'll need to learn how to use(comprehend?), where they can be a real bitch on older buses not well maintained, won't release the brakes so you can move the bus, along with a long list of other possible problems, then you might want to start thinking about the wisdom of this purchase. The list is long. Good luck.

Gilligs/Crowns and Parts · 11-14-2019, 01:24 AM

I have several fresh 6V92's for sale at great prices. Also DT466 Internationals. And Allison trannies for Detroits and Cummins and CATs. An RTO Road Ranger transmission 10 speed to fit either CAT 3208 or 855 cubic inch (or 743) 250/270/290 Cummins. A T903 Fuller 5 speed. A 6852 Spicer 5 speed. Several differentials, either 5.29's or 4.63's or 4.11's. And drivelines. Also good tires.

Everything is inspected and guaranteed.I know everything about Crowns and Gilligs, also Ford F600, B700, F800, F900. I have manuals, schematics, many many many many parts, engines, trannies, diffs.

My advice is free 24/7. I know more about Gilligs than anyone on the West Coast, maybe the U.S. I've owned 40 Gilligs, 35 Crowns, every possible configuration, and have dismantled about 30.

I've been a mechanic for 53 years, buses for about 28 years. There is very little I do not know, and if there is I can find it out quickly.

Patrick Young FRESNO, CA (559) 251-3814 Once again FREE advice 24/7 anytime. I've rebuilt two engines so far, owned 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 cylinder diesels to include Nissan, Lister-Petter, Cummins, CATs, Detroit Diesels, IHC, Isuzu, Mercedes, Hercules and a few more I've probably forgot.

Gilligs/Crowns and Parts · 11-14-2019, 01:29 AM

The phone numbers listed above are wrong. My phones are (559) 251-3814 and (559) 513-9639.

My email is wheelchairbusproject@yahoo.com

Patrick Young
Bus/diesel specialist, over 85 owned, 30 dismantled.

Gilligs/Crowns and Parts · 11-14-2019, 01:34 AM

One 8D or 4D is sufficient. Two batteries are nice for cold weather.

Patrick Young
53 years turning wrenches
Owner of over 90 Crowns, Gilligs, Fords, Waynes, Carpenters and other diesel buses.

FREE ADVICE 24/7 at (559) 251-3814 or (559) 513-9639.

In an emergency you can call after midnite. Just do it twice, and state your emergency so I'll wake up, and pick up the phone.

My email is wheelchairbusproject@yahoo.com

EastCoastCB · 11-14-2019, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc

I only remember one issue you had on the DT466, the timing cover?

Well- Navistar performed their tsb on it which is to put block sealant in the coolant. It stopped leaking before I sold it. It was sold the the friend of mine who went to tx and drove it back.
Its now been sold to a diesel mechanic who wanted a shorty.

I was a Navistar fan-boy before all this. Block sealer in that tsb just killed it for me.

Mtrdrms · 11-14-2019, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crown_Guy

You've asked this already and I've answered it.

I don't sense you're reading and fully comprehending what I'm saying. Take the time to absorb my posts. You're all carried away with the vision and excitement of what you can do with the bus, I get that and know the feeling.

But look at it from the buses' point of view and try to get a feel for what IT wants to do TO you.....It wants to have everything wrong with it fixed so it's all healthy and brand new again and it'll settle for nothing less, no matter the cost. After all it's not it's money...

Just ask any commercial operator about how they talk among themselves when we aren't around. You're no different but without the cash flow from commercial revenue operations.

MCI's are 24V neg. ground and they come new with (2) 8D batteries. Most common is the 1100 amp/hr with a 12-1300 amp/hr slightly heavier duty one available for a little more. Plan on at least $175 each if you're lucky and can find a good wholesale battery place. Full price retail outlets will try to get over $200 each. Beware. I usually budget around $500 for a set of batteries and look for good deals.

These are wired in series to get the 24Volts so you only have the 1100 amp/hr rating available, not like other buses where the two 8D's are wired in parallel for a 12 volt system which doubles the available current to 2200 amp/hr. See.

Don't screw around, or try anything else but a pair of REAL 8D's, just don't.

You can't cheap your way out of having the best, strongest batteries you can get.

This is only the beginning of how Coaches will work so hard to take ALL your money. And, yes, the 24v Delco 50DN 225 Amp alternator is about $1500 to $2k depending on how good a deal you can find.

Group 31's and all the other stuff won't do it when the chips are down. Even though a Detroit Diesel WILL start right up in a single revolution as previously stated. If it's been sitting and cold soaked, maybe lost it's prime, water/crap in the fuel, the lower compression of the 6V-92 turbocharged engine will require quite a bit more cranking before it's hot enough in the cylinders to light off and start running. I drive one pretty regular and it usually takes 2-3 seconds to start up, and it's warm here and in great condition. This cranking is a terrible drain on the batteries and you should never crank it for any more than 5-10 seconds at a time. Wait a few minutes before trying again.

The batteries will need to recover as well as the starter to cool down. If it doesn't start after 3 or 4 attempts or sound like it's trying to start....Then STOP, you have a problem that needs to be located and fixed before attempting another start. This process will kill a fully charged and healthy set of 8D's in no time at all. I've seen it before and know the sinking feeling of a DD not starting right up almost before you can let go of the key. If it balks you have issues. DON"T crank and kill the batteries.

Another good question to have answered is if the engine is a DDEC or pure mechanical one. It'll be a definite issue to know about if it won't start. You might get lucky with a mechanical engine but I don't how many of them are really out there. I think it went to DDEC control pretty early in the 6V-92 engines after the pure mechanical 8V-71's which I'm more familiar with. It's not a good or bad thing but you'll need to know in order to proceed with repairs.

No one is trying to scare you, really, merely trying to hit you with a 2x4 between the eyes to get your attention. Now that we have your attention. Scared is good though, you should be plenty scared and have an overwhelming fear and respect for the dangers to your bank account a recalcitrant and hungry highway coach can deliver.

The MCI 96A3 (96" wide, not 102") is a really good fleet owners workhorse with a great reputation, a nicely re-styled and upgraded MC-9 which was fantastic, and was built before all the super complicated computerized modern systems in use today. These truly do suck and will leave you high and dry somewhere on the road, with passengers, until you turn off the batteries and re-boot the whole damn bus, just like MS windows, oh yeah that's really a fun time.

Did I mention the battery cut-off switches?? MCI's all have them. It'll be located in the same compartment as the batteries, pretty hard to miss, labeled "ON" "OFF", nice, plain lever with a black knob. Nothing works until it's "ON". Always park it and turn off the batteries before you leave, just to be safe, or you may find a dead battery(s) when you return.

MCI's don't have frame(rails) as such as other trucks and "skoolies". They are essentially a single stress bearing internal structure inside with the perimeter and bulkheads forming a single uni-body box with the running gear attached, and outer decorative and protective skins riveted in place. They do rust and you'll find corrosion is the most likely enemy of most all older coaches even though they have a large amount of stainless steel and aluminum in the body work. Road salt and regular corrosion really does a number on aluminum. You should check for this since it can fatally weaken the bus and make it almost impossible to repair.

You asked for an idea of what to look out for and how to know what might be wrong. The simple answer is that there really isn't any way to know sometimes without taking the plunge and giving it a try. But if it looks all nasty and rusted and the doors and latch handles don't want to open properly, and the engine is reluctant to start, and the air system when started won't build air and the suspension air bags won't lift the bus up,(it'll come up about 3-5 inches if all is well). Or the DD3 parking brake, which it most probably will have, by the way, which you'll need to learn how to use(comprehend?), where they can be a real bitch on older buses not well maintained, won't release the brakes so you can move the bus, along with a long list of other possible problems, then you might want to start thinking about the wisdom of this purchase. The list is long. Good luck.

No, this is great. Sorry if I asked this already but I keep running through these scenarios in my head in preparation and I've got a line on a few 8D batteries but I wanted to know the correct amp range.
I get the corrosion and other red flags but can you tell me more about the parking brake? I could see that being a problem...

cadillackid · 11-14-2019, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Well- Navistar performed their tsb on it which is to put block sealant in the coolant. It stopped leaking before I sold it. It was sold the the friend of mine who went to tx and drove it back.
Its now been sold to a diesel mechanic who wanted a shorty.

I was a Navistar fan-boy before all this. Block sealer in that tsb just killed it for me.

block sealer has been used forever.. we had this conversation before... even Cadillasc required Block sealer from the factory on some of its engines.. apparently it worked since the bus got driven to texas from florida....

im glad you arent a Cat-hater anymore like you used to be. as they did make some good engines.. but navistar Hate doesnt help anything.. be realistic.. ALL engines can break...

there's PLENTY of non-leaking 04+ 466E's out in the field still taking kids to school every day...

EastCoastCB · 11-14-2019, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

block sealer has been used forever.. we had this conversation before... even Cadillasc required Block sealer from the factory on some of its engines.. apparently it worked since the bus got driven to texas from florida....

im glad you arent a Cat-hater anymore like you used to be. as they did make some good engines.. but navistar Hate doesnt help anything.. be realistic.. ALL engines can break...

there's PLENTY of non-leaking 04+ 466E's out in the field still taking kids to school every day...

I was turned off of Navistar for several reasons. I'd still own an older one but after talking to several guys who fix diesels all day I'm no longer a fanboy of Navistar.
If you look at my post history you'll see I recommend Navistar, Cummins, and Cat equally... I'm NOT brand loyal anymore at all...

Mtrdrms · 11-14-2019, 09:31 AM

Ok, I've got the batteries. Is there special coolant for this motor? In case I need to top off? I have some 40wt oil to bring with me.

Crown_Guy · 11-14-2019, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mtrdrms

Ok, I've got the batteries. Is there special coolant for this motor? In case I need to top off? I have some 40wt oil to bring with me.

OK.

The DD3 parking brakes CAN be a source of all kinds of mischief. But as long as the components aren't rusted or worn and decently maintained they usually work reliably.

The normal procedure to release the parking brakes is to let the air build up to the absolute maximum it will go to as dictated by the air governor on the compressor. This will be around 115psi or maybe a little more, more is definitely better but nothing you can do about it. It's a function of the air governor and out of your control.

Once the air is up as far as it will go then you push the black (and round usually) brake knob, again usually located to the right and below the seat inside the panel to the drivers right, DOWN. This could be located anywhere actually maybe left side, or near the dash but this is where they usually were located, down and to the right. It will be the only such knob and be labeled what is is. It should STAY down. Then apply a maximum foot brake application----and I mean ALL the way to the floor as far as it will go, mash it HARD. Hold it for a second or two and then release. If all is well the bus will now roll freely. If not you now have your first issue to resolve.

Do research online about how DD3 works and you'll begin to see what's happening. Basically when you park and pull the knob to set the brakes it pushes the shaft out of the brake can with a separate rubber diaphragm and pushes metal wedges in place to lock the shaft in that position, thus holding the brakes on when air bleeds out. To release requires a larger application and a little further movement of the shaft which allows the wedges to be retracted by springs thus releasing the actuating shaft for normal brake functions using the Service brake diaphragm. If these wedges aren't freed up due to low air pressure and not enough foot brake application movement then the brakes won't let go and you're stuck. There's also potential issues with wear, corrosion/rust, leaking rubber diaphragms even slack adjuster/brake adjustments can be factors if not enough travel is being made to set/release the brakes. If maintained and kept in good order they work fine but when they aren't all kinds of things can happen. These are NOT spring brakes but rely on the air pressure to apply the brakes and then lock the shaft in position. One common modification is to remove the DD3's entirely and install a spring brake system. This needs plumbing modifications and other things but will update and remove the obsolete DD3 system.

As to the batteries again. Don't listen to anyone who says you don't need two 8D's. This bus and you are in COLD country and needs all it can get when the occasion arises. It may not for most starts but it's going to when it gets cold and you need to crank it a bit. An electric block heater helps as does starting fluid/ether but use this very sparingly and carefully since it will wash the oil off the cylinder walls at startup and cause some wear at startup. It also causes the engine to rev up to high rpms without adequate oil pressure especially if the oil is cold and not flowing much. Keep the rpms low as long as you can to allow the oil to heat up and get circulated around. All Detroit Diesels have extremely Low oil pressure at idle. Even when at operating temperature it's around 3-10 psi. at idle. This is grossly normal and you'll see it jump up rapidly as the engine accelerates past about 800 rpms. This is another reason to use ether sparingly since the oil just isn't being pressurized much on start up anyway.

Now on the oil......NOT just any oil either. READ and believe this. If you haven't already seen my previous posts along with others regarding the proper oil to use in a DD 2-stroke (comprehend this) read it again. DD 2-strokes are totally different animals and REQUIRE the lowest ash content oil possible. This today is harder to find since they are not anywhere near as prevalent as they once were. DD engines owned every bus and many trucks on the road 20 years ago, not so much now. It was simple to find the oil and everyone knew what they needed. The CORRECT oil is a MINERAL (not synthetic) straight 40 wt. (maybe 50 if hot climes) low ash CF2 oil. Delo 100 (NOT 400-synthetic) 40wt is the usual and it will take an effort to find but it's around and usually the cheaper option. Order a full case of it and keep it with you always on the bus. Alternatives are Rotello T-1 CF2 straight 40wt, there are a couple others but I can't remember them. The key is CF2, lowest ash content, NON-synthetic, mineral oil, and NO NADA muti-grade oil EVER. 40wt is the usual and works in most climes and DELO has the lowest ash content of all of them. Just don't use any multi-grade oil and don't ask me. And don't listen to any "expert" who tells you different. It's your engine and you need to use the proper oil for it. Just do it. If you don't you risk the repairs. IT MUST have a CF2 rating or don't use it.

It will use about a gallon of oil every 4-600 miles if it's in halfway decent condition. More if it's worn and in need of attention. This is again grossly normal and should be factored into your operational consideration. Keep oil with you at all times so you won't get stuck on the road having to find something that isn't readily available anymore.

As to coolant questions you can get away with water but mind the freezing temperature when you shut it off. You'll probably want a three step ladder to reach the water fill to check and top it off. Fill it until it gushes out, it's a surge tank so no harm done. The ladder is also handy for doing the front windshields too. Almost a required operational item.

It's always a good idea to add antifreeze for it's freezing protection as well as lubricity and corrosion/rust inhibitors as well. DD has wildly expensive recommendations for coolant additives but that's up to you. You should also consider installing in the water circuit a water conditioner which is a metal housing with a sacrificial element that keeps the coolant chemistry in good order. It may already have one and if so be sure to replace the element. This is one of the things to regularly service when doing a normal PM service, replacing both(2) fuel and the oil filter and an oil change (about 10 gallons), do this water conditioner as well. This will cost about $400 just for the parts, and should be done every 6-8 thousand miles at least. One of the costs of ownership of any bus.

I think that answers your questions. Check around for other forums dealing with coaches and conversions. They have a lot of good threads about what to expect and how to deal with stuff coach related. I gave you a link in a previous post.

ol trunt · 11-14-2019, 06:29 PM

Crown Guy, great posts. Been there done that and you are right, right, right. Funny though how sometimes after you've lead a horse to water you have to push his head in to get him to drink- Ha.
Jack

Mtrdrms · 11-14-2019, 08:13 PM

Awesome info crown guy! Just the kind of stuff I wanted to know. Thanks for taking the time! I'm sure I'll have more questions between now and Sunday but this will hold me over for now.

Iceni John · 11-15-2019, 12:16 AM

And from a 6V92 owner, please know that Crown Guy (a good friend of mine whose knowledge of bus matters is based on decades of real-world experience and countless miles of driving) is not BS-ing you. 6V92s are not "normal" engines by current standards, and they need to be driven and treated with care and knowledge to get a long life from them. If you treat them like anything else, you WILL quickly kill them, no ifs or buts. Read all you can on BCM about them, and heed the advice there, especially Luvrbus (Clifford) who is their resident guru on pretty much everything. If it's a DDEC engine, get yourself a Pro-Link 9000 scanner with a DDEC cartridge, probably DDEC II if it's a 1989, and a copy of the DDEC Troubleshooting Manual from Detroit. The first time your CEL or SEL comes on you won't be shitting bricks wondering WTH is happening - if you can read the engine parameters you're halfway to diagnosing the problem. And get an oil analysis to give you some idea about past usage and incipient problems.

See, ain't buses fun?!

John

Mtrdrms · 11-15-2019, 05:56 AM

Thanks John, I'll invest in a pro-link. I'm OK with this being a unique and sensitive beast. I'll handle with care for sure - I just need to get her fired up and home!

Gilligs/Crowns and Parts · 11-15-2019, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilligs/Crowns and Parts

I have several fresh 6V92's for sale at great prices. Also DT466 Internationals. And Allison trannies for Detroits and Cummins and CATs. An RTO Road Ranger transmission 10 speed to fit either CAT 3208 or 855 cubic inch (or 743) 250/270/290 Cummins. A T903 Fuller 5 speed. A 6852 Spicer 5 speed. Several differentials, either 5.29's or 4.63's or 4.11's. And drivelines. Also good tires.

Everything is inspected and guaranteed.I know everything about Crowns and Gilligs, also Ford F600, B700, F800, F900. I have manuals, schematics, many many many many parts, engines, trannies, diffs.

My advice is free 24/7. I know more about Gilligs than anyone on the West Coast, maybe the U.S. I've owned 40 Gilligs, 35 Crowns, every possible configuration, and have dismantled about 30.

I've been a mechanic for 53 years, buses for about 28 years. There is very little I do not know, and if there is I can find it out quickly.

Patrick Young FRESNO, CA (559) 251-3814 Once again FREE advice 24/7 anytime. I've rebuilt two engines so far, owned 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 cylinder diesels to include Nissan, Lister-Petter, Cummins, CATs, Detroit Diesels, IHC, Isuzu, Mercedes, Hercules and a few more I've probably forgot.

Along with the 75-80 or so buses I've owned, I have also owned and driven a 1965 Ford F250, a 1978 Ford F250. a 1966 F350, a 1970's U-Haul F600 (all V8 gas powered, with 4 speed manuals, except the 1978 that has a heavy duty automatic) several Ford B700's (CAT diesel powered with 5 speeds) and about six Ford F800/900 series fire trucks, also with 3208 CATs and Allison 653's.

I know a lot about these vehicles, and have done clutches, brake master cylinders, drivelines, adding fuel tanks, front axle kingpin bushings, front wheel bearings, 4 barrel carb rebuild, long marathon driving in the F350 and F600 to Central America, pulling a trailer, adding trailer hitches, basic electrical troubleshooting, and even destryed the 1966 F250 by towing it behind my bus but not dropping the drive line.

I will soon be servicing the 1978 F250, to include new transmission and differential oil, and lubrication. I've also lubed the 1966 F350.

If it is 1960's-1970's Ford trucks or buses, I'm very knowledgeable.

You can call me 7 days a week up until midnight at (559) 251-3814, or (559) 513-9639. For emergencies you can call 24 hours, just call TWICE and tell me your problem and contact information.

All the best to you and yours,

Patrick Young
Wheelchair Project
Fresno, CA
FACEBOOK PAGE: Buses in Service: Classic Gillig and Crown school buses.

PatrickBaptist · 11-15-2019, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilligs/Crowns and Parts

Along with the 75-80 or so buses I've owned, I have also owned and driven a 1965 Ford F250, a 1978 Ford F250. a 1966 F350, a 1970's U-Haul F600 (all V8 gas powered, with 4 speed manuals, except the 1978 that has a heavy duty automatic) several Ford B700's (CAT diesel powered with 5 speeds) and about six Ford F800/900 series fire trucks, also with 3208 CATs and Allison 653's.

I know a lot about these vehicles, and have done clutches, brake master cylinders, drivelines, adding fuel tanks, front axle kingpin bushings, front wheel bearings, 4 barrel carb rebuild, long marathon driving in the F350 and F600 to Central America, pulling a trailer, adding trailer hitches, basic electrical troubleshooting, and even destryed the 1966 F250 by towing it behind my bus but not dropping the drive line.

I will soon be servicing the 1978 F250, to include new transmission and differential oil, and lubrication. I've also lubed the 1966 F350.

If it is 1960's-1970's Ford trucks or buses, I'm very knowledgeable.

You can call me 7 days a week up until midnight at (559) 251-3814, or (559) 513-9639. For emergencies you can call 24 hours, just call TWICE and tell me your problem and contact information.

All the best to you and yours,

Patrick Young
Wheelchair Project
Fresno, CA
FACEBOOK PAGE: Buses in Service: Classic Gillig and Crown school buses.

Why all the SPAM? You keep on posting this stuff on peoples threads and never actually address the topic being discussed or answer anyone's questions.
Very sketchy.

Mtrdrms · 11-16-2019, 08:15 AM

Hey guys I've got an inner Tire on the tag axle that's off the bead won't take air any suggestions?

PNW_Steve · 11-16-2019, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mtrdrms

Hey guys I've got an inner Tire on the tag axle that's off the bead won't take air any suggestions?

I am a little bit confused. I have never seen an Bluebird All American with a tag axle. Worse, I have never seen any bus that have stage Axel with dual.

If I had an inside dual on my drives I would take the wheel off and beg, buy or borrow a bead seated.

https://www.amazon.com/SUNCOO-Blaste...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Edit: forgive my confusion. I read the question and looked at your profile and assumed you were talking about your BB.

Crown_Guy · 11-16-2019, 09:05 AM

This is the first of many many things. Remember what I said, the list is long. If this is the 96A3 of course. You NEED a tire shop with a mobile service truck with a compressor. A BIG RIG tire shop who knows these tires. You most likely have 12(maybe12.5)X22.5 tires on it those were industry standard. The tag is important and carries weight and adds braking. Tires can be a biggy in the drive home especially if a front lets go at speed.....When a tag blows and the rear end settles so low the guy has trouble getting the jack under the bus then you'll know really messed up things can get with a seemingly easy fix. Easy, not cheap. Remember the list is long and the engine is probably the least of it.

Actually your post is a tad confusing. The tag axle is the single tire behind the duals which are the only driven axle. In any case a loose tire anywhere off it's bead needs a proper tire guy with tools to re-mount and air it up. All MCI's have 8 tires on the ground the duals in back with the tag behind, and the fronts. Happy trails.

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