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Old 07-16-2021, 07:04 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
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Radiator leak

Okie dokie. So have a leak in the radiator. Found the culprit. A bolt that attached the steering fluid reservoir was rubbing on the radiator until it made a small hole on the end side part of the radiator. For a while I’m guessing. It’s spraying out about as much as a gallon jug with a pinhole in it. Luckily have a friend a couple hours away while on the road. Gonna take it off when I get there. Anyone have any experience getting a full metal radiator patched/ repaired? Also advice on changing in and out. I’ve changed radiators before so know the ins and outs. Just wondering any helpful tips on the skoolies if any difference. . Thanks bus friends!!!

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Old 07-16-2021, 08:57 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
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Year: 1954
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Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
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patched the tanks

I had one many moons ago..... hole in an upper tank. got a small sheet of brass from the hobby store.... used to make brass gas tanks for model airplanes.... anyways... cut a a piece that would cover the hole..... sanded the brass clean, the patch and the tank.... got out the torch, and flux and the solder..... took about two hours total, but I had no practice.... I was carefull not to heat up too much and unsuspecting disassemble the entire upper on accident, I have done that one before.... go to you tube university or find older fella that repairs tractor radiators....

william
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Old 07-16-2021, 10:43 PM   #3
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a real copper penny works well also and easier to locate, small propane torch and acid solder to finish it up.
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Old 07-17-2021, 01:33 PM   #4
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I staybright8'd radiators before. staybright8 holds up on my HVAC joints with R-410a which in heat mode can produce pressures approaching 500 PSI
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Old 07-17-2021, 05:46 PM   #5
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I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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Old 07-17-2021, 06:51 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
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Year: 1991
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Engine: DTA360 / MT643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post

used it on a heater hose to get me home and yes it works!
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Old 07-17-2021, 06:54 PM   #7
Bus Geek
 
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Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the other thing its excellent for is sealing unused holes and ports in the bus firewall.. stuff seems to hold up well too
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Old 07-18-2021, 11:39 AM   #8
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Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Baja often, Oregon frequently
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Chassis: Ford CF8000 ExpeditionVehicle
Engine: Cummins 505ci mechanical
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!!! Warning !!!
.
Avoid Off-The-Shelf additives such as Barr Stop-Leak [spit].
.
A couple-three years ago, our 1997 radiator was seeping from the top tank.
While the engine was hot and running, I added a tiny car of Barr Stop-Leak [spit].
.
That stuff [spit] plugged the heater core, plugged the head coolant channels in our mighty Cummins 8.3, plugged all the hoses, and generally made a mess of things.
.
And yet, the top tank seep continued.
.
I dismantled the entire cooling system, rigged a power flusher through a stand-alone diesel-fired high-pressure pressure worsher.
Hours later, I was still seeing grime flushing our, looking suspiciously similar to Barr Stop-Leak [spit].
.
I ended-up replacing the radiator and heater-core plus the heater hoses.
New water-pump and both thermostats.
.
Now, let's not be quick to judge Barr Stop-Leak [spit] as the cause of the entire cooling system blockage.
But the timing seems awkward...
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Old 07-18-2021, 12:13 PM   #9
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Depending on the size of the hole, a simple brazing operation with no filler will work. If not, a piece of thin brass as mentioned earlier brazed in place is next best. If you want a long term repair for peace of mind, a reputable radiator shop can replace the end (or top, as the case may be)tank.

In either case, the radiator needs to be empty and as dry as possible.
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