02 International 3000 Water Pump Replacement

[Vince&Megan]

Hello all, We have a leaking water pump on our bus with a T444e.

Looking at it I cant tell if you can replace it from inside the the engine bay through the side doors or do you need to remove it out the back of the bus.

Any one have a clue?

Thanks.

Vince

[Rock-N-Ruth]

Originally Posted by Vince&Megan

Hello all, We have a leaking water pump on our bus with a T444e.

Looking at it I cant tell if you can replace it from inside the the engine bay through the side doors or do you need to remove it out the back of the bus.

Any one have a clue?

Thanks.

Vince

I just put ours back together and am waiting for a thermostat housing.
Ours is the AMTRANS RE with the T444E. A door on each side of the engine bay.
No chance of doing the job that way.

• Drop the rear bumper.
  Remove the Radiator.
  Remove the Intercooler(That thing that looks like another radiator) There are also two nuts on the bottom of the intercooler frame you might not notice.
  Take off the fan blade.
  Remove the fan clutch.
  *Very important* The fan clutch nut is LEFT Hand thread.
  The fan clutch shaft has a big (I mean big) nut 51mm. It is right hand thread. Put the wrench on it before you remove the serpentine belt and give the wrench a wack with a hammer. It should break free and spin out by hand.
  Take a couple of pictures of the serpentine belt pattern. You'll be glad you did when it is time to put it back on.
  Remove the serpentine belt.
  Remove the water pump pulley.
  Remove the idler pulley.
  Now you can remove the water pump.
  As you remove the pump make a written note of where the different sized bolts go. There are three sizes.
  
  Clean all the mating surfaces.
  
  Inspect the thermostat housing for corrosion. If there is any replace it. It is much easier to do it now than after you put it back together and it begins to leak. Ask me about waiting for parts.
  
  Take this opportunity to change your radiator hoses, compressor cooling lines
  and thermostat. You will save yourself trouble down the road.
  

Once the pump is out take a few pictures of the old pump so that you will remember where all the fittings go on the new pump.

Before you start:
Take a bucket. Put a couple good sized magnets in a ziplock baggie, in the bucket. Now you have a place to plop all the bolts and you won't lose any.

When you are installing the new pump. Do not use gasket sealer.
Tighten the pump bolts in a cross pattern 1/3 torque at a time. (finger tight, snug, then tight)

If you run into trouble look up Freedom Field Deming New Mexico on Google.
My contact info is there. You can call or text. I might be able to help.

[Vince&Megan]

Originally Posted by Rock-N-Ruth

I just put ours back together and am waiting for a thermostat housing.
Ours is the AMTRANS RE with the T444E. A door on each side of the engine bay.
No chance of doing the job that way.

• Drop the rear bumper.
  Remove the Radiator.
  Remove the Intercooler(That thing that looks like another radiator) There are also two nuts on the bottom of the intercooler frame you might not notice.
  Take off the fan blade.
  Remove the fan clutch.
  *Very important* The fan clutch nut is LEFT Hand thread.
  The fan clutch shaft has a big (I mean big) nut 51mm. It is right hand thread. Put the wrench on it before you remove the serpentine belt and give the wrench a wack with a hammer. It should break free and spin out by hand.
  Take a couple of pictures of the serpentine belt pattern. You'll be glad you did when it is time to put it back on.
  Remove the serpentine belt.
  Remove the water pump pulley.
  Remove the idler pulley.
  Now you can remove the water pump.
  As you remove the pump make a written note of where the different sized bolts go. There are three sizes.
  
  Clean all the mating surfaces.
  
  Inspect the thermostat housing for corrosion. If there is any replace it. It is much easier to do it now than after you put it back together and it begins to leak. Ask me about waiting for parts.
  
  Take this opportunity to change your radiator hoses, compressor cooling lines
  and thermostat. You will save yourself trouble down the road.
  

Once the pump is out take a few pictures of the old pump so that you will remember where all the fittings go on the new pump.

Before you start:
Take a bucket. Put a couple good sized magnets in a ziplock baggie, in the bucket. Now you have a place to plop all the bolts and you won't lose any.

When you are installing the new pump. Do not use gasket sealer.
Tighten the pump bolts in a cross pattern 1/3 torque at a time. (finger tight, snug, then tight)

If you run into trouble look up Freedom Field Deming New Mexico on Google.
My contact info is there. You can call or text. I might be able to help.

Thanks for your highly detailed reply. But after looking it over I decided to try to do it all through the side doors first. All went good through the doors for my rig.

Here is how I did it may not be in perfect order.

Drain coolant
remove hoses as needed
unplug and unbolt fan clutch wiring
remove drive belt
remove fan clutch with fan and let it lay in shroud against radiator
remove accessory bracket with alternator
remove belt idler pulley over water pump
remove water pump pulley
remove water pump
clean mating surface
transfer all needed parts
reassemble


everything was done through the left ( drivers side) door with the exception of releasing the second drive belt for the a/c compressor & 2 alternator

The fan clutch nut was 50mm


All in all went pretty quick about 6hrs and that included lunch and a couple drink breaks.


Just another way to do it at least for my rig. Maybe it can help someone else

Vince

[Megg]

Hi Rock-N-Ruth!

I have run into the same problem. I have a 2000 International t444e and am broken down on the side of the road because one of the coolant hoses burst and the bus started to overheat. I replaced the hose, but when I went to add coolant to replace what was lost, I noticed a leak from the bottom of the water pump.

Does this mean I need to replace the whole water pump? If so, do I just need to follow your instructions?

Thanks in Advance!
Megg

[Rock-N-Ruth]

Originally Posted by Megg

Hi Rock-N-Ruth!

I have run into the same problem. I have a 2000 International t444e and am broken down on the side of the road because one of the coolant hoses burst and the bus started to overheat. I replaced the hose, but when I went to add coolant to replace what was lost, I noticed a leak from the bottom of the water pump.

Does this mean I need to replace the whole water pump? If so, do I just need to follow your instructions?

Thanks in Advance!
Megg

Be sure that the leak is in fact from the water pump. If it is coming from the pump, it could be from the weep hole. In that case you may be able to top off your water and proceed with caution, keeping an eye on your engine temp. This could allow you to relocate to a better place than the side of the road.

If it is the weep, you will have to replace the water pump. It's not a small job. But it can be done.

[HamSkoolie]

And if it's not coming from the weep hole of the water pump you can put some BARR's Stop Leak in. Not the best or correct way to repair a leak but I've used their products with great success. My RAM 1500 blew a pump so bad that the shaft was off at least 10 degrees. It threw and destroyed my serpentine belt and caused the steel pump impeller to dig into the aluminum accessory case on the front of the engine.
After measuring the depth of the damage it was determined that it was still serviceable so on went the new pump. On start up all was good and so after driving it a couple of weeks we headed out on a road trip pulling the 5th wheel RV. The morning after our first stop I discovered coolant had leaked and investigation showed that it was coming from the bottom right corner of the accessory case.
Barr's Copper was the product recommended by the company litterature to deal with our leak and it got us home just fine. It leaked a bit more withing a few weeks and another treatment of Barr's Copper stopped it immediately....it was a small leak the second time where the first leak was massive and took a while to seal up.
That was well over 6 years ago and I haven't had to put a drop of coolant in since the second treatment.
If yo go with Barr's, read all the literature on their products to find the right one for your situation.


And if it's the weep hole and not streaming out...... get somewhere safe that you can get the work done and replace the entire pump. That weep hole is there as an indicator of a failing pump.