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10-02-2014, 04:26 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 2
Year: 1991
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 65
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1991 DTA360 Coolant System Flush Procedure
Hello Everyone,
I am excited to join the ranks of this forum. I have recently purchased a 1991 International 3800 and I have many questions but I will start with a couple at this time:
1. Does anyone know or have a guide for doing a proper coolant system flush?
2. Does anyone have a owners manual or set they are willing to part with which would explain this and other questions?
Thank you so much for your time.
Joe
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10-02-2014, 09:50 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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Re: 1991 DTA360 Coolant System Flush Procedure
I doubt an owners manual will discuss a coolant flush.
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10-03-2014, 11:24 AM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Twin Falls, Idaho
Posts: 809
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Coolant System Flush Procedure
There are several questions to be known before a cooling system flush. Is the present coolant worth saving? The thermostat should be removed. After coolant is removed a good system cleaner is added. I have used lye on many occasions for a serious cleaning. After cleaning, fresh clean water is added, take vehicle for a ride to dilute any remaining cleaner. The heater control should be open so the heater core is also cleaned. New coolant should be 50-50
water and coolant. Coolant should be tested with coolant tester. Frank
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10-03-2014, 12:42 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: 1991 DTA360 Coolant System Flush Procedure
From the owners manual of my BB:
HEATER BLEEDING INSTRUCTIONS
Use of antifreeze (ethylene glycol type only) is recommended for summer or winter operation because of its corrosion inhibition and lubrication properties. A 50-50 solution of antifreeze and water is preferred and it gives freeze protection to about 30 degrees F below zero. Ultimate protection is attained at 68% antifreeze (about 92 degrees F below zero); a higher concentration of antifreeze should never be used. Check engine operations and maintenance manuals on recommendations on use of coolant additives.
If it becomes necessary to completely refill the chassis coolant system, the following procedure must be followed to insure adequate heater bleeding. During the bleeding process, it will be necessary to remove the radiator cap and refill cooling system several times to insure adequate coolant is available to replace purged air and coolant lost when bleeding.
WARNING: Extreme care must be used when removing radiator cap. As coolant becomes hot, pressure is built up in the cooling system. Rapid venting and/or removal of radiator cap will cause coolant to boil up and spray out and can result in serious burns. Slowly vent off pressure before removing radiator cap.
PROCEDURE:
1. With the engine off, shut all engine heater gate valves or clamp closed all heater hoses as close to engine as possible.
2. Fill cooling system completely, including surge tank with coolant and run engine for a few minutes to bleed air from cylinder block and heads.
3. Open the heater hose supply line gate valve or unclamp supply line hose. Refer to following pages, (Heater Cutoff Valves) for heater cutoff valve location. Turn on heater water pump.
4. Using a suitable container to catch coolant, run engine between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM, loosen bleeder valve located in heater hose return line. Bleed air and coolant through bleeder valve until air is elimi- nated from heater system. (Stop bleeding when continuous stream of coolant comes from bleeder valve.) Note: It will be necessary every few moments to refill the radiator or surge tank.
5. When all of the air has been purged from the heater system, open gate valve in heater hose return line or unclamp return hose.
6. Run engine between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM until thermostats open. To assist in deaerating the entire cooling system, accelerate the engine a few times before and after thermostats open.
Note: Thermostats have opened when upper radiator tank and radiator hose becomes hot.
7. Refill cooling system including radiator and surge tank.
WARNING: Never idle engine in closed areas. Never sit in a parked or stopped vehicle for any extended amount of time with the engine running; exhaust gases, particularly carbon monoxide, may build up. These gases are harmful and potentially lethal.
Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless, but can be present with all other exhaust fumes. Therefore, if you ever smell exhaust fumes of any kind inside your vehicle, have it inspected immediately by your dealer and have the condition corrected. Do not drive with exhaust fumes present.
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10-06-2014, 09:01 AM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,678
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Re: 1991 DTA360 Coolant System Flush Procedure
What's the reason for you wanting to flush? Did it test bad or is it full of gunk? There's many different ways and chemicals to flush depending on the reason why you are flushing.
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01-09-2015, 07:06 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
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I didn't see the coolant filter mentioned. Does the dt360 have a filter (spin-on or other)?
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10-31-2015, 11:37 AM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Vermont
Posts: 49
Year: 2003
Engine: DT466E
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Help with bleeding air
Quote:
Originally Posted by opus
From the owners manual of my BB:
3. Open the heater hose supply line gate valve or unclamp supply line hose. Refer to following pages, (Heater Cutoff Valves) for heater cutoff valve location. Turn on heater water pump.
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Hey Opus et al,
Winter is here in VT... and the family wants heat.
2002 International
I pulled out all of the passenger radiators when I did the bus last spring, put them in this morning and plumbed exactly like they were... I filled the radiator tank and cranked her up...
Then open the valves back to the driver/passenger radiators, but the res tank only dropped about 1"... and nothing went back (I disconnected the highest hose to try to bleed air...
So I quit and came to search for an answer on skoolie.net
Question: Anyone know where this waterheater pump referenced by opus/manual is? and how to turn it on?
Thanks!
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10-31-2015, 11:47 AM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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Usually there is a switch with all the others. I would turn on the key but not start the engine and start flipping switches one at a time and listen. If you have a rear engine bus, have someone listen in the back.
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10-31-2015, 03:06 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylebetaclark
Question: Anyone know where this waterheater pump referenced by opus/manual is? and how to turn it on?
Thanks!
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I've never seen an aux pump in anything but a rear engine bus. Sorry if that wasnt clear.
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10-31-2015, 03:30 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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My old 40' BB had a single loop in series to two heaters with no auxiliary pump. Just a mongo water pump on the DD 6V53. Lots of variations on how they plumbed these things.
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10-31-2015, 03:49 PM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Spring Valley AZ
Posts: 1,343
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 2 elderly children, 1 cat
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The pump on our front engine BB is under the bus, driver's side , under the seat.
__________________
Don, Mary and Spooky the cat.
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10-31-2015, 04:30 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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My 97 Intl front engine flat front had one under the skirt by driver.
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10-31-2015, 06:30 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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I have also seen many front engine buses with coolant booster pumps. Both dog nose and flat nose units.
They also wear out and don't work sometimes.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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10-31-2015, 06:41 PM
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#14
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
They also wear out and don't work sometimes.
Nat
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That all boils down to your maintenance program. When you live in the cold like I [we] do, you keep track of things like this and replace them BEFORE they break.
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11-01-2015, 01:08 AM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 308
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Please tell me you are only using them to get heat while on the road and not sitting there idling to make heat and carbon monoxide.
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