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Old 02-26-2024, 09:14 AM   #1
Almost There
 
Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 93
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas (Thomas Vista)
Chassis: International 3600
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 60
1992 DT360 Temp sender.

Looking at a repair manual I think this is the sender, anyone able to confirm I'm not crazy (at least this time) If it is, anyone have a reliable site to buy one from? Temp gauge went while using the bus to get stuff for the build, I thought I had the correct one to replace it but I was very much wrong.
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Temp. Sensor.jpg   Sender.jpg   Sender2.jpg  

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Old 02-26-2024, 10:13 AM   #2
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,843
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I have a 1990 DT360, repairlink wont go back that far but the dealership does.. i have called my local dealer for parts by VIN for my DT360 bus and had good luck.. even if you dont buy it from them you can get a part number and cross it..



I looked up the diagram for mine and it doesnt have troubleshooting instructions for that sensor.. it does appear you have the correct one for the gauge.. tan wire which should habve a '29A' on it from whan I can tell..


my bus also has a temperature switch on the head near the rear that trigger the alarm..



also remember the IH gauge clusters are often faulty themselves.. you can try reaching behind and moving the wire harnesses gently to see if the gauge comes back to life or not... ive had to re-solder the connectors on both my 3800's ...
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Old 02-26-2024, 10:37 AM   #3
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Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 93
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas (Thomas Vista)
Chassis: International 3600
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
also remember the IH gauge clusters are often faulty themselves.. you can try reaching behind and moving the wire harnesses gently to see if the gauge comes back to life or not... ive had to re-solder the connectors on both my 3800's ...
Yeah I've been told a lot about IH clusters, surprisingly all mine worked but while at a redlight after getting off the interstate I saw my temp gauge was reading 0. Going to take some readings with my meter and see if its dash or sender. I may eventually bite the bullet and map out my wires and rebuild my dash with off the shelf gauges. lucky my DT has no computer to argue with so it may be feasible..
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Old 02-26-2024, 11:12 AM   #4
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,843
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malevolence4845 View Post
Yeah I've been told a lot about IH clusters, surprisingly all mine worked but while at a redlight after getting off the interstate I saw my temp gauge was reading 0. Going to take some readings with my meter and see if its dash or sender. I may eventually bite the bullet and map out my wires and rebuild my dash with off the shelf gauges. lucky my DT has no computer to argue with so it may be feasible..

its actually quite feasible... your tach might be the hardest gauge to replicate as the tech signal is mechanical.. there is a hall effect sensor on the flywheel housing monitoring pulses.. I believe its 132 pulses per engine rev..



speedometer is a hall effect woith 16 pulses per driveshaft rev on the transmission..



your oil pressure and air brake pressure are actually hard lines on this engine..



fuel appears to be pretty standard 0-90 ohms..



and temperature is resistance based..
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Old 02-26-2024, 11:57 AM   #5
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Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 93
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas (Thomas Vista)
Chassis: International 3600
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
its actually quite feasible... your tach might be the hardest gauge to replicate as the tech signal is mechanical.. there is a hall effect sensor on the flywheel housing monitoring pulses.. I believe its 132 pulses per engine rev..



speedometer is a hall effect woith 16 pulses per driveshaft rev on the transmission..



your oil pressure and air brake pressure are actually hard lines on this engine..



fuel appears to be pretty standard 0-90 ohms..



and temperature is resistance based..
Man if no one has said it recently I will, Number 1 thank you 2 you're a wealth of knowledge, I was on the right track with most of this but you pretty much confirmed everything. Can't express my gratitude enough
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Old 02-26-2024, 12:31 PM   #6
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Location: South Carolina
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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Back when my speedometer wasn't working people thought my gauge cluster was bad but it wasn't. That being said it's worth it to remove it. It's simply 2 screws, and then with a small wrench unwrench the two air lines. (Remember which color goes to which hole as there'll be two, and then there is an oil line for oil pressure you have to unwrench as well and have something under it as it will drip a few drops of oil as you unscrew. The rest is electronic through the 3 harness ports on the back of it. I believe you have the same bus as me but 1 year newer, but it's the same until 1997.

What you are looking for are cracks in the underside where the middle green( I believe it's the green one). Regardless the Middle port, check the pins and solder joins for any micro cracks. you can view with a magnifying glass and see. It's also good to take a multi meter and touch the tip of the pin, and a trace anywhere connected to the pin on the board and do a continuity test. If you are getting continuity the pin is fine, move onto the next pin and find a trace connected to it not masked and repeat if you come across any pins between the point and the trace on the board, and there is no continuity, get a soldering iron, and add some leaded solder to the point to fix it. That solder is old so if you have to do it to one, you may as well just add some solder to all of the pins to re-melt it like new. Solder gets brittle over time and the vibrations from buses and trucks will crack those pins. This ended up NOT being the case for me as I had continuity on all of mine, but my speedo didn't work because of the bad Speed Sensor.

Also of note, while you have the gauge cluster out, and you have to potentially remove the casing to see the gauges or replace bulbs, you may find that because of it's age the glue used to hold the gauge status lights paper like "Warning" lights or brake lights etc, may slide out and it will be impossible to keep it in place afterwards, so be prepared to get some like clear colored glue (Do not use a white elmers or anything as it will discolor the black over time chemically.) Use a clear glue, and glue the edges and place it in it's place and it should be good for another 30 years.
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