2010 no start. Dash lights on.

Miles O Roads · 03-13-2023, 11:39 AM

So, went to start the bus with no luck. Dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. I believe it is something in the wiring. One thing I noticed is the wait to start light does not go off. But the engine, water in fuel,brake,and wts light stays on. When trying to start I get a silinoid click in driver box. It does not even try to turn over. I may start running wire to see if any rodents have got into it. I keep poison in all areas and some in the bus but they still could got to it i guess. I order a nexiq2 and a new multimeter hoping to shed light. Just throwing out there to see if anyone has a similar problem.

Flying I 365 · 03-20-2023, 12:56 PM

I’ve never seen this issue specifically. But I have had something similar on mine. When I tried starting mine once, I had the “Service” light on, along with the “WTS” light on, I didn’t have the “Water in Fuel” light on but I did have the “Brake” light on (cause the parking brake was set) along with both the “ABS” and “Trac” lights on and the engine wouldn’t crank. Backtracing the wires I found the ECM relay bad and the fuse for the ECM blown. Replacing both got the engine to crank over.

Yours (being an RE) might be a bit different but I would backtrack the wires with a diagram and check all the fuses and relays for the engine itself (ECM or IDM) and perhaps check the fuse for the starter itself. Checking the relay for the “Wait to Start” might be advisable too. Might be something that simple as a bad relay, a blown fuse or a bit of corrosion in the wiring connectors. (The solenoid in the drivers box might be for the starter signal to engage the starter and turn the engine over). Next step could be something went awry with the ECM.

I’ve primarily dealt with CE conventionals (both the VT and DT engines), but perhaps this info might be of some help with your RE.

rossvtaylor · 03-20-2023, 01:15 PM

If your bus is a rear-engine bus, have you tried starting it from the rear start panel?

Dbacks2k4 · 03-20-2023, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossvtaylor

If your bus is a rear-engine bus, have you tried starting it from the rear start panel?

I'm guessing an RE. If I recall right, IC didn't make an FE with the Maxxforce line, they were too big. The conventionals got the newer upgraded dash.

OP - make sure the "engine kill" switch in the engine bay isn't flipped. That has gotten me more than once!!

rossvtaylor · 03-20-2023, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dbacks2k4

OP - make sure the "engine kill" switch in the engine bay isn't flipped. That has gotten me more than once!!

I think we've all been victims at one time or another. OP, this might be of interest:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkRK0LRMheY

Dbacks2k4 · 03-20-2023, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossvtaylor

I think we've all been victims at one time or another.

Yep, it's even gotten my mechanic a few times! Always makes me feel better that someone who does this for a living still forgets from time to time.

Flying I 365 · 03-21-2023, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dbacks2k4

I'm guessing an RE. If I recall right, IC didn't make an FE with the Maxxforce line, they were too big. The conventionals got the newer upgraded dash.

OP - make sure the "engine kill" switch in the engine bay isn't flipped. That has gotten me more than once!!

IC conventional buses yes did get the upgraded dash cluster while the FE and RE buses did not (I have no idea why). The FE did come equipped with the Maxxforce DT engine as well as the DT466E in older model years, as the Inline 6 was the only engine option available given the chassis design. A V8 like the VT365 or Maxxforce 7 wouldn’t fit in the chassis and consistent with IC nomenclature, the FE was marked solely as the FE300.

HamSkoolie · 03-31-2023, 11:23 PM

If you have a "crank inhibit" relay in the back like in my 96 IH I'd check that you're getting the proper inputs and outputs. Mine was jerry rigged when I bought the bus (the relay was out and the insertion block had wires running to a relay attached next to the stock row of relays. It was done that way because the crank inhibit relay wasn't getting the correct signal from the computer. During troubleshooting I determined that everything else worked except for the signal from the computer so it's still got the rewired non stock relay and starts just fine.
Also check the power to the ECM and all the fuses in the rear panel.
And yes, the kill switch in there as well. It's not hard to bump that while working back there.

dbsoundman · 04-01-2023, 06:09 AM

One other obvious thing no one else has said…batteries! If they haven’t been put on a charger, charge them. If it still won’t crank, get them tested. Make sure all the terminals are tight. That got me once.

Miles O Roads · 04-03-2023, 07:54 PM

SORRY guys has been a minute. Comments were pretty close. My buddy delt with a cat motorhome close to the same thing. He asked if my transmission indicator was lit up. I noticed it was not,and was showing no voltage on cluster. He said in his deal it was the switch. Said a year before customers wouldn't start with key but in the back. Mine did that also but started working up front again. Anyways I flipped switch handfull times with nothing. Started wiggling connector behind it and BOOM, relays on motor came to life. Checked dash and all lights were off. Hit the key and we are running. Spent part of the day a while back checking to make sure no mice had got into the harness and everything was good. So yes,today has been a relief of some stress. I plan to extend the switch into the bus and use it as a theft toggle for when we leave the bus. Also don't want anyone to be able to shut us down from outside in remote areas. Thanks for the replies, just wanted to post the bus is alive again.

Dbacks2k4 · 04-04-2023, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miles O Roads

SORRY guys has been a minute. Comments were pretty close. My buddy delt with a cat motorhome close to the same thing. He asked if my transmission indicator was lit up. I noticed it was not,and was showing no voltage on cluster. He said in his deal it was the switch. Said a year before customers wouldn't start with key but in the back. Mine did that also but started working up front again. Anyways I flipped switch handfull times with nothing. Started wiggling connector behind it and BOOM, relays on motor came to life. Checked dash and all lights were off. Hit the key and we are running. Spent part of the day a while back checking to make sure no mice had got into the harness and everything was good. So yes,today has been a relief of some stress. I plan to extend the switch into the bus and use it as a theft toggle for when we leave the bus. Also don't want anyone to be able to shut us down from outside in remote areas. Thanks for the replies, just wanted to post the bus is alive again.

Allison 3000 dead shifter issue?

Miles O Roads · 04-10-2023, 04:49 PM

The shifter was not powered up. Just dark indicator.

ewo1 · 04-10-2023, 05:08 PM

Dark shifter panel is easy to troubleshoot/fix once you understand the wiring.

Read here how I fixed this problem, twice !

Miles O Roads · 04-17-2023, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ewo1

Dark shifter panel is easy to troubleshoot/fix once you understand the wiring.

Read here how I fixed this problem, twice !

I'll check it out.

Feel I'm going to check like every plug and put some dielectric grease in the plugs.

rossvtaylor · 04-17-2023, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ewo1

Dark shifter panel is easy to troubleshoot/fix once you understand the wiring.

Read here how I fixed this problem, twice !

Well, that was kind of a cool blast from the past...your first post, way back in 2018, and you were an immediately-helpful soul even then. Thanks for being here.

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