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Old 04-06-2021, 04:34 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by laegion View Post
Hahaha, oh boy that is embarassing. I wasn't reading very closely this morning.

At least I wasn't wrong about the other mystery item...
Haha if that's the worst mistake you make this week then that's a victory in my book. Identifying filters can be tricky, I'm only as good as I am with it because I do services on a wide variety of vehicles and have been for a few years now. When I started out I didn't know what I was looking either. It's actually the bowl on the bottom that gave it away for me.

I've never seen a retrofitted catch can before so idk know if you're right or wrong without further pictures. I wasn't aware people were putting them on larger diesels, but the basic principle is still just as sound as any other application especially with the focus on emissions as of late.

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Old 04-06-2021, 04:43 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Truthseeker4449 View Post
Haha if that's the worst mistake you make this week then that's a victory in my book. Identifying filters can be tricky, I'm only as good as I am with it because I do services on a wide variety of vehicles and have been for a few years now. When I started out I didn't know what I was looking either. It's actually the bowl on the bottom that gave it away for me.

I've never seen a retrofitted catch can before so idk know if you're right or wrong without further pictures. I wasn't aware people were putting them on larger diesels, but the basic principle is still just as sound as any other application especially with the focus on emissions as of late.
The way I can tell is that it's plummed into the crank case vent from the valve cover then another hose goes to the intake boot on the turbo compressor.
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Old 04-08-2021, 11:04 AM   #43
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I just bought this bus, it seems okay, but running a bit rough. I'm new to busses so I don't really know what to expect.
I looked up air brake tests before I drove it home. It was fine when I left on my 150 mile journey but about half way home the air pressure alarm started going constant, sometimes changing tone almost going off, then starting again. During all this the pressure stayed above 110 on the gauge. I tried the airbrake tests that are required for the certification and everything was fine with the tests of whether the brakes or tank hold pressure, except the test where you time how long it takes to get back up to full pressure. It seems to take around 3-5 minutes, however it does reach full pressure and stays around 110-120psi, seemed to work and stop properly but would still recharge slowly.
It didn't cause any scary problems so I drove it home. I'm just working on tearing the interior out and I won't be driving it for at least a year, but I figured it would be good to look into the issue. I've worked on a lot of cars but I'm not familiar with diesels specifically, and definitely not air brakes.
Is it possible the pressure sender for the compressor has gone bad and is leaking pressure? or am I way off? Any thoughts or suggestions?

Also, what would be things to look for if it's running fairly smooth but seems to lose power in the mid rpms and surge at idle when cold? boost leaks? worn charge pipes? needs oil changed and trans service? or is that just something that's normal with the power curve of a diesel?
You raised a major red flag in your statement when you said you'd be renovating the bus and not driving it for a year. DIESELS must be driven at mininimum weekly or you're going to see a slew of other problems crop up, especially with the brakes. It needs to be exercised and not just around the block and back.

PRIORITY NUMBER ONE is to get those BRAKES attended to PRONTO. Slack adjusters rust. Callipers and drums stick/freeze up. AND then get that bus out and EXERCISE her on-the-road every week!. Also, if you're in any sort of humid or especially cold climate, how are you going to keep condensation out of the fuel?. Mechanical/Electrical/BRAKES FIRST!...Play Pretty's later!
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Old 04-08-2021, 12:37 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by therage View Post
You raised a major red flag in your statement when you said you'd be renovating the bus and not driving it for a year. DIESELS must be driven at mininimum weekly or you're going to see a slew of other problems crop up, especially with the brakes. It needs to be exercised and not just around the block and back.

PRIORITY NUMBER ONE is to get those BRAKES attended to PRONTO. Slack adjusters rust. Callipers and drums stick/freeze up. AND then get that bus out and EXERCISE her on-the-road every week!. Also, if you're in any sort of humid or especially cold climate, how are you going to keep condensation out of the fuel?. Mechanical/Electrical/BRAKES FIRST!...Play Pretty's later!
Unfortunately not everyone has a living situation that allows weekly driving. That would be great but isn't realistic for where I'm at.

No need to be rude about it.

If you don't have constructive advice then please don't comment.
I appreciate your opinion but couple it with advice or you're just badgering.

I am aware that brakes and metal components can rust. I've worked on many vehicles...

Last time I checked this bus has a fuel/water separator filter. Also additives.
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Old 04-08-2021, 01:18 PM   #45
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Direct and to the point does not equate to rude nor is it badgering.
What he said was all very good sound advise, mechanical things need to be worked or problems develope. It's unfortunate that your situation doesn't allow it but it doesn't change the fact that it's good advise.
Good luck with your bus
Stay safe out there
Cheers

Oscar
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Old 04-08-2021, 01:41 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Oscar1 View Post
Direct and to the point does not equate to rude nor is it badgering.
What he said was all very good sound advise, mechanical things need to be worked or problems develope. It's unfortunate that your situation doesn't allow it but it doesn't change the fact that it's good advise.
Good luck with your bus
Stay safe out there
Cheers

Oscar
How do you defend your post then? 0% advice. This person literally used their first post to be rude. That's nice that you can't read between the lines...but your criticism of my criticism is pointless and compounding the issue.

As I've stated many times in this thread, I've worked on other vehicles, I'm new to Diesels and airbrakes specifically. Nothing he mentioned applies only to diesels and airbrakes or even specifically to busses, or even applies to my actual questions. He's parroting common knowledge.

I don't want to argue, but I don't enjoy or intend to deal with pushy or rude criticism. This post is a request for helpful and friendly advice. Which up until this point has been amazing and helpful.
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Old 04-08-2021, 02:05 PM   #47
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Just looking at this bus it's clear it's already been sitting, evident from the lack of rust underneath with plenty of window/roof leaks and rust under the plywood floors. I expect to replace many brake components and such...but it's a 20 year old well-used bus, that was never a question, it was something I counted on.

I'd love to drive it weekly but right now, until it's converted and I can move somewhere else it is unfortunately pinned in behind cattle panels.

The filters, oil, coolant, transmission fluid, brake components, air dryer, (probably the tires too), hoses, charge pipes, (probably a turbo rebuild), other wear items and gaskets, etc, etc will all be inspected and replaced before it drives anywhere again. I've actually mentioned some of this in the thread.

So for those who haven't bothered to read the thread but make snarky comments anyway...now you know.
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Old 04-08-2021, 02:15 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laegion View Post
How do you defend your post then? 0% advice. This person literally used their first post to be rude. That's nice that you can't read between the lines...but your criticism of my criticism is pointless and compounding the issue.

As I've stated many times in this thread, I've worked on other vehicles, I'm new to Diesels and airbrakes specifically. Nothing he mentioned applies only to diesels and airbrakes or even specifically to busses, or even applies to my actual questions. He's parroting common knowledge.

I don't want to argue, but I don't enjoy or intend to deal with pushy or rude criticism. This post is a request for helpful and friendly advice. Which up until this point has been amazing and helpful.
Wow!
Nothing I said I need to defend and I have read the thread.
I’m certainly reading between your lines!
Carry on and enjoy your bus
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Old 04-08-2021, 04:17 PM   #49
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Unfortunately not everyone has a living situation that allows weekly driving. That would be great but isn't realistic for where I'm at.
Eh, you're probably good to go. As full time RVers we're in a living situation where we could drive every week, minimum, but we park for weeks or months at a time. Most RVers don't get their diesels out every week and the thing don't blow up on 'em. I seriously doubt that many of the folks on this forum "exercise" their buses once a week.
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Old 04-08-2021, 04:33 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
Eh, you're probably good to go. As full time RVers we're in a living situation where we could drive every week, minimum, but we park for weeks or months at a time. Most RVers don't get their diesels out every week and the thing don't blow up on 'em. I seriously doubt that many of the folks on this forum "exercise" their buses once a week.
As far as I'm aware, you're right. There are certain things you want to be aware of like condensation in the crank case and fuel, and of course the fact that the air brakes in the rear are locked when there is no pressure, etc...then there are ways to make sure they won't be a problem. Many people store diesel vehicles for long periods of time. I'm sure they cover these kinds of things.
That's why I was annoyed with the lack of realistic advice in the post.
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