99 international 3400 t444e NO WAIT TO START LIGHT.

[8Linermemphis]

Hello everyone I’m new to the forum and would appreciate any help or opinions you may have.

So bought this church bus and it’s been sitting up for 2 years. Bought new fuel filter and installed it along with fresh diesel in bowl. Checked oil everything good along with new batteries. Hit with light touch of starting fluid and fired right up. Sat and ran for 45 minutes. I take off down road and about 2 miles lose all accelerator pedal and I pull over and it dies. I replaced another fuel filter and cleaned out bowl and new diesel again. By the way was still full of diesel in filter bowl so was pumping in there. And I remember turning key on and waiting on the wait to start light to go off before trying to crank it. It fires back up and I take off again and within 1 mile it does it again. Now I don’t have a wait to start light and my rpm gauge not jumping either. I called myself checking all fuses and I replaced cam position sensor and icp sensor and still nothing showing fire at the relay under hood and hear it click but I don’t know what else to do. I know if wait to start light not coming on the computer not doing what it’s suppose to do to send power to idm and ipr. If anyone can help me with this I would greatly appreciate it. I have been trying to get going for 3 days. Thanks a bunch

[8Linermemphis]

Also if you have a wiring diagram of the wiring harness that would be great too can’t find what I need online

[ewo1]

In this thread you will find wiring info but it is for amtran re busses. These diagrams are based on a t444e motor .

Im real confident that the starter circuit wiring will be real close.
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f49/a...ams-25055.html

Your leaving out pertinent info regarding your issue. Your post is written with more frustration instead of info.

Have you inspected and cleaned ALL power and ground connections?

Are your batteries FULLY charged ?

When you turn the key to the on position, do all your dash lights come on?

Have you done any wire cutting/work before this issue ?

Have you triple checked emergency door/window sensors?

Don’t go chasing/replacing parts untill you have verified your electrical first.

Do you have access to servicemaxx?

[cadillackid]

no wait to start but the engine will crank over? something seems off.. usually no wait to start means the ECM is missing one of its power feeds.. one of the extra wire connections that go direct to the batteries that EWO and his diagrams suggest..



FULL batteries are a MUST.. these engines like to spin when cranking

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

no wait to start but the engine will crank over? something seems off.. usually no wait to start means the ECM is missing one of its power feeds.. one of the extra wire connections that go direct to the batteries that EWO and his diagrams suggest..



FULL batteries are a MUST.. these engines like to spin when cranking

My '99 Dt466, when you turn the key ON the wait to start NEVER turns on and she fires right up cold or hot!

I been thinking about checking the bulb.....

I have no clue about a T444...

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by 8Linermemphis

Also if you have a wiring diagram of the wiring harness that would be great too can’t find what I need online

Are you good with diagrams and wiring ???

Speak up !!!

[Omnibot2000]

First step, check fuse(s)at the battery box including grounds.

Next, check wiring at the starter. So many feeds coming off it. It's also used as a junction point.

I know you checked the relays under the hood. Have you back probed the relay with a test light. You should have 1 ground, 1 signal, 1 battery supply and the 4th wire is the feed to the component.

I say again. Check your grounds. Often over looked. On Friday I replaced a hi and low pressure switches that another mechanic said was faulty(took Friday off). I was greatly disappointed to find the ground to the A/C clutch had 14.5k ohms. Bad ground the whole time. Reason for misdiagnosis, the way the clutch is engaged now......it goes through the BCM. Diagnosed incorrectly.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by Omnibot2000

I say again. Check your grounds. Often over looked. On Friday I replaced a hi and low pressure switches that another mechanic said was faulty(took Friday off). I was greatly disappointed to find the ground to the A/C clutch had 14.5k ohms. Bad ground the whole time. Reason for misdiagnosis, the way the clutch is engaged now......it goes through the BCM. Diagnosed incorrectly.

LOL...BCM's are gonna be the worst nightmare real soon....

[PorchDog]

Originally Posted by ewo1

LOL...BCM's are gonna be the worst nightmare real soon....

I am old and the older I get-- the more cynical I get-- I feel for folks tied to a BCM-- we have seen two Tahoes in the last three weeks where the headlights flashed on and off-- and if the wipers were on-- the wipers staggered when the lights flashed. Bad headlamp control module, and apparently was killing the CAN bus that fed the wipers. When this stuff gets a few years old-- and you can't get these modules...???

I am a wires and mechanical switches and relays kind of guy...

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by ewo1

My '99 Dt466, when you turn the key ON the wait to start NEVER turns on and she fires right up cold or hot!

I been thinking about checking the bulb.....

I have no clue about a T444...

99% of the DT466E dont have a pre-heater.. (an intake heater was offered but rarely purchased). all T444E are shipped with glow plugs.. (and use a wait to start function even when hot the light comes on for a second or 2)

[8Linermemphis]

Sorry work at night so just got up.

1.Batteries are brand new and fully charged.
2. The wait to start light was working at first because I watched light when starting it for the first time
3. Haven’t cut or modified any wires on it. It cranked up went a mile or 2 and died figured it was old fuel put some tank clean and additive in tank, new fuel filter and fresh diesel in bowl. Cranked back up and wait to start light worked went another mile or so down road and lost all acceleration and it died and hasn’t hit a lick since.
4. I called myself checking all fuses and relays seem to be working check all with test light.
5. Didn’t know anything about a back door switch or sensor for side door but haven’t ever opened the back door at all and can check side door if I know what to look at.


I am so frustrated with this thing. I have been in car business for over 25 years so I have worked and patched on my fair share of junk and stuff with problems but this one here is really bothering me.

I don’t have a wire diagram there is nothing in the bus and can’t seem to find the right anything on the net. I came across this forum and decided to see if I could get anywhere with it. Thanks for any and all help.

[8Linermemphis]

Had wait to start at first now gone and won’t do anything. I will go back over fuses and things again

[8Linermemphis]

One wire going to battery box has a fuse and it’s good and batteries are new I have them on charger now as well. The fuses under dash have metal cover on them so hard to check. Can I replace them with regular fuses ??? If so I will try that now

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by 8Linermemphis

One wire going to battery box has a fuse and it’s good and batteries are new I have them on charger now as well. The fuses under dash have metal cover on them so hard to check. Can I replace them with regular fuses ??? If so I will try that now

those are circuit breakers.. most of them are auto reset but sometimes you'll find them with a little tiny lever which is the reset..



the one labelled ECM BAT and DIAG are the most important ones..



they can be replaced with regular fuses..the required value should be next to the circuit name. the breakers are there because in a momentary failure they will auto reset..


I will say that on my older 3800, someone had replaced a lot of fuses with these breakers but didnt use the longer legged breakers and I had issues with them not fitting all the way in and made intermittent contact.. in my case it caused issues with my lights...

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by PorchDog

I am old and the older I get-- the more cynical I get-- I feel for folks tied to a BCM-- we have seen two Tahoes in the last three weeks where the headlights flashed on and off-- and if the wipers were on-- the wipers staggered when the lights flashed. Bad headlamp control module, and apparently was killing the CAN bus that fed the wipers. When this stuff gets a few years old-- and you can't get these modules...???

I am a wires and mechanical switches and relays kind of guy...

It's already happening. Modules obsolete on 2012 dodge ram 5500 at work. Have been searching for a used module for months. Nothing. Truck has 120,000 kms.

[Omnibot2000]

It is. The theory is you can hook up a scanner and it will tell you what the problem is.

The high and low switch is wired to the BCM. When the BCM is happy with the values from the switches, the BCM will send a voltage to the A/C clutch to command on. No fuses either. Think of it as a virtual fuse. If amperage exceeds set value the BCM kills voltage to the clutch.

In this case I had a code for low amperage to the A/C clutch. You can unplug the A/C clutch. Install a test light to power supply and the BCM provided 12 volts down the line. Check the ground and was no good.

It is not to bad BUT BCM's fail. Trucks from 25 years ago are still on the road. You think they will still make a BCM for a truck 25 years later. So far from what I see .......no chance

Sorry for the thread hijacking.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Omnibot2000

It's already happening. Modules obsolete on 2012 dodge ram 5500 at work. Have been searching for a used module for months. Nothing. Truck has 120,000 kms.

manufacturers are only required to make partd for 15 years.. this is a very old rule when most cars were very worn out or rusted out by the time they hit 10 years... nowadays many many cars have a lot of life left at 15 years... the rule needs to be revised..



luckily with popular vehicles like a tahoe aftermarket companies and even GM themselves continue to make parts because theres still money to be made from it..

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by 8Linermemphis

I know if wait to start light not coming on the computer not doing what it’s suppose to do to send power to idm and ipr.

Does it crank without starting?

My 02 t444E has the Wait to Start light is top right on the dash.

The WARN ENGINE light is on the left.

Does the WARN ENGINE light come on when the key is first turned on?

If it comes on, then you can pull up the codes from the ecm. If not then you have a power problem the the ecm. What is amp size of the fuse in the battery box?

To check codes. There is a momentary button beside the round data port connector under the dash. Push it while turning the key to the on position without cranking. The warn light is going to flash a code. see this thread for a video https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f49/v...ion-43945.html

You said you lost accelerator pedal and then pulled over and it died. So I take that as the bus continued running for a short period of time and then died.

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

manufacturers are only required to make partd for 15 years.. this is a very old rule when most cars were very worn out or rusted out by the time they hit 10 years... nowadays many many cars have a lot of life left at 15 years... the rule needs to be revised..



luckily with popular vehicles like a tahoe aftermarket companies and even GM themselves continue to make parts because theres still money to be made from it..

It's being skirted though. They are saying it's on back order with no ETA.

Reason is computer chip shortage.

Unfortunately aftermarket is not picking up on this. Nothing available. Hence used parts. Sadly the market is chasing after these same used modules AND they have to have the same number on the module to work.

[8Linermemphis]

Code 111 on the diagnostics and no old saved codes. The wait to start light not coming on now and the warn engine light comes on in bottom left side of cluster when turn key on.