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Old 10-16-2022, 11:05 AM   #101
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
Cut off the big end of the rod and bolt that back on the crank throw.

remove the pushrods for that cylinder.

A friend years ago had a piston failure. buick nailhead 425

piston broke, swinging rod broke off the oil pump pick up tube.

dropped the oil pan. scooped out the broken parts. removed the oil pump and

parts. cut off the big end with a hacksaw and bolted that back on. took off the

valve cover removed the two pushrods from the dead cylinder. over filled the

crankcase with motor oil. Drove the 1966 ford pickup towing a 64 buick

wildcat with broken piston. The drive was three hours on seven cylinders,

and splash oiling towing the other broken car on a trailer.

william

never gonna do that on a diesel without the engine flying apart.. the rest of the rotating assembly is too heavy and will crash the main bearings.. high compression means high pressures on all the mains,.. if there was a way to balance the crank like heavy weights on the flywheel he would stand a chance

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Old 10-16-2022, 03:07 PM   #102
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: USA/BCS Mexico
Posts: 45
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas Vista
Chassis: 3600
Engine: T444E 175HP +AT545
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
Cut off the big end of the rod and bolt that back on the crank throw.

remove the pushrods for that cylinder.

A friend years ago had a piston failure. buick nailhead 425

piston broke, swinging rod broke off the oil pump pick up tube.

dropped the oil pan. scooped out the broken parts. removed the oil pump and

parts. cut off the big end with a hacksaw and bolted that back on. took off the

valve cover removed the two pushrods from the dead cylinder. over filled the

crankcase with motor oil. Drove the 1966 ford pickup towing a 64 buick

wildcat with broken piston. The drive was three hours on seven cylinders,

and splash oiling towing the other broken car on a trailer.

william

Already cut the rod but now the counter balance is hitting the cylinder since it can now spin. Going back in and grinding the whole thing down more. Grateful that I have electric tools over hack saw and file.
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Old 03-16-2023, 11:13 PM   #103
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: USA/BCS Mexico
Posts: 45
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas Vista
Chassis: 3600
Engine: T444E 175HP +AT545
Hey everyone, My 1996 T444e has been stored and now needs to get back moving. Can anyone tell me where the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor is located on this engine (94.5- 97) or if it has one?


I can't see any sensors anywhere near the turbo stuff. no waste-gate actuator coming in from outside.



Please include a diagram or photo if possible. Can't find one.


Also, what purpose does the sensor by the back right side of the head serve?
(Drivers side towards the rear, exact opposite of the ICP).


-Having every confidence that victory and triumph is yours.
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Old 03-18-2023, 06:28 AM   #104
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
if your engine was built for a southern climate it very well may not have an EBPV valve.. (or a sensor).. are you getting an error code for it?


on the 94-96(97) there were 2 coolant temp sensors.. one up front on the vicinity of the thermostat (computer) and one on the head(dash gauge)..


did you fix the rod? or are you going to try and run it on pistons?


I didnt think the turbo had a waste gate on the low HP versions in those years.. the High torque versions had waste-gateed turbos.. low torque had non wastegated turbos..

they are different than the fords which I think always used waste-gated turbos..
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