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Old 09-15-2021, 02:55 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus View Post
Buy more than one!
Lol of course, like a kit or assorted pack

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Old 09-15-2021, 03:41 PM   #42
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Christopher told you originally here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
no warning light means you either likely lost a fise or fusibkle link to the computer.. check your battery cables.. the computer gets BAT power on mine from separate wires going to the Batteries (smaller ones).. and there are 2 ECM fuses in the chassis panel.. DIAG and ECM BAT must be good or the engine wont turn over or start.. remember turning-over is NOT starting.. turning over is the engine spinning with the starter,, Starting up or firing is when it starts..

so I dont know what you have when you jump the starter.. it should turn over but not start if you jump the starter and the computer is dead..

I brought the point home as I felt you overlooked it, as it very often is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus View Post
Buy more than one!
2nd this.

And clean the connections in the connector as well. Clean all the connections in that box, and then maybe check the wiring to see if you can find a chafe or something that would have caused that to blow, as it's not a wear item that should need replaced regularly.
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Old 09-15-2021, 06:20 PM   #43
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The little filter before that button (looks like a two inch long thimble) is called the rock catcher. Open it unscrew it and clean it up before trying to pump prime back up.
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Old 09-15-2021, 07:39 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27 View Post
Lol of course, like a kit or assorted pack
NO buy the ones specific to your vehicle.
there should not be an assortment pack even available?
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Old 09-15-2021, 07:54 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
NO buy the ones specific to your vehicle.
there should not be an assortment pack even available?
What kind of fuse is this? Sounded like a standard auto fuse the way I read it. And those do come in assortment packs.
Did I miss something?
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Old 09-15-2021, 08:07 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by HamSkoolie View Post
What kind of fuse is this? Sounded like a standard auto fuse the way I read it. And those do come in assortment packs.
Did I miss something?
It is a standard 40amp fuse that normally does not come in a assortment pack. A multi pack yes.

As Booyah eluded to, this fuse blew for an unknown reason while driving I assume. If only one is purchase it could blow when it is first inserted and you're back to square one.
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Old 09-15-2021, 08:32 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus View Post
It is a standard 40amp fuse that normally does not come in a assortment pack. A multi pack yes.

As Booyah eluded to, this fuse blew for an unknown reason while driving I assume. If only one is purchase it could blow when it is first inserted and you're back to square one.

I've seen them in both multi and assortments. Then again I worked in an automotive and bus shop purchasing through retail and industrial suppliers.
If the fuse blows when installed, yep, you'd need another.....but FIRST you'd need to figure out WHY it was blowing.
Of course being a skoolie, you could always just put in a 50 or 60 amp fuse.......JUST KIDDING DO NOT DO THAT ANYONE
However, it can be cheaper when troubleshooting to buy a circuit breaker type "fuse". That way when you THINK yo found the issue you can give it a go. If it blows, pull it and it will reset for use when you again think you have it sorted out. In the shop we used to have several CB's with spade connectors on wires and then alligator clips on spades for use in difficult troubleshooting. Most of us had 15, 20, 25, and 30 amp CB's in our boxes. We made up a couple of 40, 50, and 60 amp sets for the shop.

You wouldn't believe how much juice a cop car can pull when running code 3 and everythings on.
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Old 09-15-2021, 10:31 PM   #48
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I pulled all the fuses in my panel and installed circuit breakers..


I had an issue in my DEV bus for a good while where when id hit a Large bump it would pop the fuse for the dash lights / tail lights. but installing a new fuse they came right back soi I couldnt find the short.. I put in a circuit breaker that would auto reset so at least I didnt have to stop each time it happened.. I finally found the issue was in the light switch itself.. just touching the rheostat for dash lights made the switch pop, crackle and trip the breaker.. replaced the switch but left the breakers in.



as others have said Never replace with a bigger fuse.. you can start a fire.. or you can blow a fusible link.. those are often undetectable as to which one popped.. they are pieces of wire that act as fuses and will blow without mwlting the insulation.. you dont want to blow one of them as they are a royal PITA to track down.. they usually blow at a higher current than the fuse will.. they are an extra failsafe.
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Old 09-15-2021, 10:36 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus View Post
It is a standard 40amp fuse that normally does not come in a assortment pack. A multi pack yes.

As Booyah eluded to, this fuse blew for an unknown reason while driving I assume. If only one is purchase it could blow when it is first inserted and you're back to square one.
Think you're right. All the assorted packs were about 30 amps and lower. I got a multi pack
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Old 09-16-2021, 06:10 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I pulled all the fuses in my panel and installed circuit breakers..


I had an issue in my DEV bus for a good while where when id hit a Large bump it would pop the fuse for the dash lights / tail lights. but installing a new fuse they came right back soi I couldnt find the short.. I put in a circuit breaker that would auto reset so at least I didnt have to stop each time it happened.. I finally found the issue was in the light switch itself.. just touching the rheostat for dash lights made the switch pop, crackle and trip the breaker.. replaced the switch but left the breakers in.



as others have said Never replace with a bigger fuse.. you can start a fire.. or you can blow a fusible link.. those are often undetectable as to which one popped.. they are pieces of wire that act as fuses and will blow without mwlting the insulation.. you dont want to blow one of them as they are a royal PITA to track down.. they usually blow at a higher current than the fuse will.. they are an extra failsafe.
Dang fine advice. 🙂
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Old 09-17-2021, 06:15 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
It's not in a compartment. It's in with the batteries in the battery box.

This isn't my image, but refer to this to get an idea.

What's labeled as idm and ecm fuses in the picture is what I want you to check.
Ok so, I replaced the blown 40 amp fuse and when I turned the ignition to "ON" I get nothing but heard a popping/zapping sound. I checked the new fuse and as expected it was blown. I tried another new fuse and this time it didn't blow. Not sure why but I get the "WARN* ENGINE" light again! I've been saying "WARM" the whole time.

AND, the battery guage goes up close to 12 like usual, rather than stay on or close to 10 like before. Good sign if you ask me...?

I can't start it because I have to figure out how to put the driveshaft back on correctly from when the tow driver removedit. Always something, but at least it seems I'm closer to solving this. Think the fuse solved this? I sure hope so

Thanks to everyone helping me with this, greatly appreciated!
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Old 09-17-2021, 09:09 AM   #52
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Since you heard a "pop-crackle" sound and the new fuse blew, you still need to trace that circuit. The insulation on that wire is compromised somewhere.(even though the second fuse didn't blow) Pay special attention anywhere the wire crosses exposed metal or passes through metal (missing grommets?)
The 2nd fuse didn't blow because a wire got moved and the short was temporarily eliminated. At the most inconvenient time, that wire will eventually move again and blow the fuse again.
As added insurance, I'd use plastic wire conduit any place that the wire crosses a bare metal edge.
Glad you are making progress on this, electrical issues can be the worse kind of PIA.
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Old 09-17-2021, 09:15 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27 View Post
Think the fuse solved this? I sure hope so
Solved? Definitely not.

You found out why it won't start. Now you have to figure out why that fuse is blowing.

Maybe in the interim you can install a self resetting circuit breaker like cadillackid mentioned, but that isn't much of a solution either. More of an aid so that you're not constantly replacing fuses. The solution is to find what's blowing the fuse. Trace the wires, look for cuts, thin spots in the insulation, loose or corroded terminals, burned spots, etc.

Fuses don't blow for no reason. There's a reason this is happening, find it and your problem is solved.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:16 PM   #54
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did you find the short?
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:27 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnYardCamp View Post
did you find the short?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnYardCamp View Post
did you find the short?
Actually, no. But I literally just tried to start it to see what happens and she started right up! No stall at all. Gotta put the driveshaft back on before I can drive it but I'm happy it starts again.

Super crazy how one little fuse had the whole bus down for so long

Thanks to all who helped me out. You guys are awesome. Still gotta figure out what caused that fuse to blow 🤔
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Old 09-20-2021, 02:39 PM   #56
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these IH are very susceptible to wire harness chaffing.. the wiures snake through many metal holes that are / were once lined with rubber grommets.. rubber grommets that wear down, dry rot, get oiled, and otherwise mutilated / removed and gone.. then the wires can rub on the bare metal and short out.. a snap-popple-crackle and then it works is often just carbon being deposited on the metal or the wire conductors itself.. creating a very temporary insulator so now theres no short...



until you vibrate again just right and the bus shuts down.. you know like right when you have hammered the throttle to make an unprotected left turn in front of a semi... yeah I would be checking EVERYTHING that 40 amp fuse handles before driving that bus.....
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Old 09-20-2021, 03:19 PM   #57
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If you haven't found the cause of the issue, taking it on the road is like playing Russian Roulette.
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Old 09-20-2021, 03:20 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
these IH are very susceptible to wire harness chaffing.. the wiures snake through many metal holes that are / were once lined with rubber grommets.. rubber grommets that wear down, dry rot, get oiled, and otherwise mutilated / removed and gone.. then the wires can rub on the bare metal and short out.. a snap-popple-crackle and then it works is often just carbon being deposited on the metal or the wire conductors itself.. creating a very temporary insulator so now theres no short...



until you vibrate again just right and the bus shuts down.. you know like right when you have hammered the throttle to make an unprotected left turn in front of a semi... yeah I would be checking EVERYTHING that 40 amp fuse handles before driving that bus.....
what he said
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Old 09-20-2021, 07:54 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
these IH are very susceptible to wire harness chaffing.. the wiures snake through many metal holes that are / were once lined with rubber grommets.. rubber grommets that wear down, dry rot, get oiled, and otherwise mutilated / removed and gone.. then the wires can rub on the bare metal and short out.. a snap-popple-crackle and then it works is often just carbon being deposited on the metal or the wire conductors itself.. creating a very temporary insulator so now theres no short...



until you vibrate again just right and the bus shuts down.. you know like right when you have hammered the throttle to make an unprotected left turn in front of a semi... yeah I would be checking EVERYTHING that 40 amp fuse handles before driving that bus.....
Hard earned words of wisdom that you would be smart to heed.
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