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Old 06-22-2017, 10:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bigskypc50 View Post
My bus had a new radiator installed in 2006 there is a sticker on it that says the date, the service records just simply say "Massive Leak" & "New Radiator" with no date or milage. Also I don't know if all bus's have them but right in front of the radiator are air powered shutters that totally close off all air flow to the radiator. All I know its they close after a I start the bus and are open when I shut it down when it's warmed up.

How can I tell if my RAD is OEM and of the split or full? I can tell you it has a sight glass thats up from top center and a petcock at the bottom. I still can't figure out how to add coolant if it every needs it, sure there is the little bottle under the wire nest service door but I hope it has a rad cap? Is it behind the genesis plate thing.
the split radiator has a definite vertical line down the middle... if you are outside facing the bus you will see the left (passenger) side is radiator and the right side (driver side) is the turbo cooler.. it looks slightly different.. a full radiator looks just like a norm,al radiaotr and goes all the way across the front.. if your bus doesnt have a turbo cooler (some DT-466's didnt) then it will have a full radiator for sure..

the air shutters were optional for northern climate busses.. my carpenter has them.. and they work... I installed an override switch on mine to disable them in summer.. as I want them open always.. I leave them set for auto in winter.. and when i travelled from florida to ohio in 8 degree weather this past winter... I had forgotten to set them to auto.. I had trouble getting hot enough heat to keep me warm.. once I enabled the shutters my bus warmed up nice inside.. the temp on the dash went from 175 or so to 195 and that made the heater warmer.. unfortiunately theres no outside temp sensor for those.. so they will turn on even in summer if the temp cools down... and theres some lag so if they are closed and you start climbing a hill.. you can get hot pretty quickly until they open... thus why I turn mine off in summer..

my RedByrd doesnt have them as it is a Texas Bus..

both of my busses have 'MODINE' aftermarket radiators in them.. the navistar radiator would have a part number on it that if you referenced it would come back as a navistar part number.. the stickers on mine both said 'MODINE'..

-Christopher
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Old 06-22-2017, 11:16 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
if your bus doesnt have a turbo cooler (some DT-466's didnt) then it will have a full radiator for sure..

-Christopher
My 93 Genesis does not have a turbo cooler. Has the full size radiator. How much trouble do you think it would be to add one? Thinking it would help with the EGT if I turn it up.
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:59 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Asetechrail View Post
My 93 Genesis does not have a turbo cooler. Has the full size radiator. How much trouble do you think it would be to add one? Thinking it would help with the EGT if I turn it up.

It actually works the other way. Intercooler results in more dense air in the cylinder, which allows more fuel to be burnt. More fuel burnt equals higher EGT.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:51 AM   #24
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Just for the record...

While considering various options on my rig, several people noted that an intercooler (or as some say...CAC...charge air cooler) was not necessary on a turbocharged engine. Checking with the local diesel gurus who rebuilt my motor, they said a CAC would typically improve HP & MPG by between 10 & 15%.

I kept the CAC in my system (actually, I am having a custom one made to fit the new engine space).
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:40 PM   #25
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the CAC is worth it.. just fro,m the old days of grunge racing where it would get hotter later in the day and out cars would slow down even though we had good tire hook up... just from the ouitside temperature rise..

even with the small turbos we are running in our busses.. on average many of them pushing 14-18 PSI of boost.. the intake air temp acan go up quickly.. for people who have Zero space, you can employ a liquid to air turbo cooler which requires a small footprint under the hood and a closed-circuit coolant loop to a remote fan forced radiator.. theres work if you have decent under-hood space but very little front frill space..

Navistar got the bright idea to cut the radiator size in half and install the CAC alongside it in many of their trucks and busses.. ive only ever seen this practice on DTA-360, DTA-408, DTA-466, and T-444E engines.. they may have done it on the 7.3 IDI (I think it was turbo?).. other than finding a CAC that will physically fit, they are very easy to install.. and the turbo piping is readily available should you have a bus that was built without on and you want one..

-Christopher
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:13 PM   #26
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My 466 in my 40 footer runs at the same nice, lower temp all day. Has no cooler, full rad.
My 444 in the shorty stays cool as a cucumber cruising around town, but heavy traffic or high speeds make the temps climb. It never overheats, but the cooling system is very obviously more marginal that the setup on my 40 footer.
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:20 PM   #27
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My 466 in my 40 footer runs at the same nice, lower temp all day. Has no cooler, full rad.
My 444 in the shorty stays cool as a cucumber cruising around town, but heavy traffic or high speeds make the temps climb. It never overheats, but the cooling system is very obviously more marginal that the setup on my 40 footer.
the CAC wont help the 466 run cooler, but adding one might very well give you a few extra Horsies to play with.. and probably still stay cool... my DT-360 never runs hot... running it all over the south in 90+ heat with 2 A/C's blasting at 60-65 MPH and it sits there at 180-185 all day long... and it does have the split.. the DT must be more efficient engine than the 444.. it weas 90 here and very humid yesterday and I ran that bus foot to the floor )68 MPH). and most it did was I heard the fan run a little more than usual..
-Christopher
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:52 PM   #28
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Ok I looked under the bus and sure enough it has a split rad. Is that bad? That would explain why I saw the temp climb so fast and drop so fast. I also have my hoses looped and my heater valve closed, with that and the split rad do I have too little cooling capacity?
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:16 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by bigskypc50 View Post
Ok I looked under the bus and sure enough it has a split rad. Is that bad? That would explain why I saw the temp climb so fast and drop so fast. I also have my hoses looped and my heater valve closed, with that and the split rad do I have too little cooling capacity?
Its not BAD, but several of us on here are wanting to improve upon it.
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:08 AM   #30
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Install of the new fan clutch

Well 90 something in the shop on thursday, 113 out on the road, pulled out from the shop and floored it the 5 miles up the small grade to the big mile long hill down the other side and turned around and did it again never went above 200 . Anytime i let off it would come right back down to 180, Im running very light right now around 18000, and wasn't pulling any load. The fan noise was very noticeable the whole time! So I'm calling this ( so far ) a success , we will see when i put the rover on the back and pull a trailer with a load how it does I'm sure i won't be running full boar, but i felt much more confident knowing that fan is blowing its heart out! Note the two piece rad. I can't believe this is enough! When i look at my 9 liter set up it looks twice the volume easy but like you said if it has no where to go than whats the use? and how fun screwing the fan clutch back on the shaft was !
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Old 06-24-2017, 07:23 AM   #31
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yep you have a kit-masters clutch and a success!! this very thing fixes my DT-360.. thats why I write up severasl times in this forum for people to check these fan clutches..

there are special wrenches to get them off the bus.. if you dont have them then it gets interesting but not impossible..



-Christopher
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