Dt466e Coolant reservoir?

[nconn]

Hey all, complete noob here but trying to learn as quick as possible.

I recently bought a bus and the person I bought it from said the reservoir by the windshield wiper fluid is extra coolant that the engine will use if needed. (It says coolant on it).

However the coolant inside it is red but when I open the radiator cap the coolant is green. Everywhere I’ve red it’s a big no no to mix the two different types.

Am I missing something and Are they two different systems? Or should I do a complete coolant flush?

Thanks for your responses

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by nconn

Hey all, complete noob here but trying to learn as quick as possible.

I recently bought a bus and the person I bought it from said the reservoir by the windshield wiper fluid is extra coolant that the engine will use if needed. (It says coolant on it).

However the coolant inside it is red but when I open the radiator cap the coolant is green. Everywhere I’ve red it’s a big no no to mix the two different types.

Am I missing something and Are they two different systems? Or should I do a complete coolant flush?

Thanks for your responses

First thing to do is go to the User CP above and fill out some basic info in the Your Profile section for the bus you have. It would help for any future questions, like maybe if you had a code issue. So how did that work out?

Should be the same system. Personally I would flush the entire system and refill with the recommended coolant. Not all red coolant are the same so you really don't even know what you have in the reservoir. Better to start with something you know and avoid future headaches.
That's the first time I've seen any recommendation on an International chassis but that's not saying too much. The attached pdf says not to mix different types with the elc. I don't think you will find Texaco coolant now, maybe Havoline(?). I used Peak Final Charge Global ELC.

http://scyr.org/stellablue/images/st...texaco7997.pdf

[nconn]

Thanks for the quick response.

I will work on updating my profile to display my bus specs.

As far as the engine codes go, It ended up being a faulty ICP sensor. Once i replaced that all the error codes disappeared.

[nconn]

As far as flushing the system goes it seems pretty simple. Just drain current coolant, flush with hose until clean, bring bus up to operating temp, and flush with water again, and then add new coolant.

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by nconn

As far as flushing the system goes it seems pretty simple. Just drain current coolant, flush with hose until clean, bring bus up to operating temp, and flush with water again, and then add new coolant.

To clarify the product info says you can mix but "will reduce the products’ extended life benefits" and you would still need to add the required sca's.

It took me several flushes to get to clean water. Include your interior heater system with the flush. You should have a coolant filter on the side of the engine that needs to be changed to a filter without any additives or a 'blank' filter. I used Hastings WC8 but you can cross reference that to something available to you. I also used a full strength coolant which was diluted with distilled water.

[nconn]

Thanks for all your help on this. I’ve search the forum many times without getting answers to my questions.

My last question is how did you account for all the water in the lines with your mixture? If I did a 60/40 mix I feel like it would end around 30/70 once all the water in the heaters/lines mixes with it. I’m thinking of doing about an 80/20 mix with the peak final charge global concentrate to account for it, but again that is just a guess.

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by nconn

Thanks for all your help on this. I’ve search the forum many times without getting answers to my questions.

My last question is how did you account for all the water in the lines with your mixture? If I did a 60/40 mix I feel like it would end around 30/70 once all the water in the heaters/lines mixes with it. I’m thinking of doing about an 80/20 mix with the peak final charge global concentrate to account for it, but again that is just a guess.

I only had one heater to contend with and there wasn't that much water. I did disconnect the heater hose firewall (dog nose) and applied slight pressure to see how much water would drain out. I was also replacing the radiator, thermostat and water pump. I would not plan on exceeding a 60/40 mix based on the final charge website info.
Just after replacing the parts and coolant I took it on a test drive and it did great temperature wise. I parked it and came back later to find a heat core leak.