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Old 04-06-2021, 08:22 AM   #1
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DT466E Front Cover Removal and inspection

So I have been going through all the mechanical issues on my bus starting with the engine and transmission. Have been addressing several different problems.

Had issues with multiple oil leaks, front and rear, as well as coolant leaks, and power steering I believe. Also had an issue with oil in the antifreeze but was just a little oil on top floating right below the radiator cap.

Since swapping the transmission out, I replaced the rear main seal and wear sleeve, also replaced the rear cam seal while I had it apart.

Will be replacing the oil pan gasket too, and planning on pulling the oil cooler to see whatís going on with that.


Now working on the front, Iíve pulled the radiator, and charge air cooler, water pump fan clutch and front damper, and the gear driven oil pump that sits behind it.


The radiator Iíve decided to replace it with a new one, its been ordered. The charge air cooler is good. Going to replace the water pump and belt tensioner as well as the fan clutch because I donít think mine is engaging properly.


Questions for the people that have experience with pulling the front cover.

Would you replace the oil pump since I have it out? I donít know how to tell if its worn.

There is a wear sleeve on the damper, is it necessary to change? Also looks like there is a pressed in seal on the oil pump hosing, is that something to change?

What other seals or parts would you change while you had this apart? I know there is a front main seal, is that the seal in the pump housing or have I not reached it yet?

Looking for pointers, and things to look for, I have never done this before but have worked on a lot of gasoline engines.


The hub that holds the fan clutch that bolts to the timing cover seems to have a bearing in it, would you replace that while itís off?


Iím planing on pulling at least the front cover and possibly the rear half, I have all the bolts out except the lower engine bracket bolts on the front cover. I may try and get that off today.

Main reason is to check for any issues in there and hopefully fix the oil leaks I have.


A side note, I did crack the wet side of the air tank, I got maybe a teaspoon of oil out of it, not sure if thatís normal with age or something I should be concerned with.


I donít just donít want to have to pull this apart because I didnít replace something that should have been. Because its on a flat nose and pulling the front bumper and headlight assembly and all the other stuff just to get in there, just donít want to have to do this again. Trying to make this thing as dependable as possible and to fix what needs repaired and trying not to cut corners.

Sorry for the long post! I appreciate all input and advice, I know you guys have got lives of your own and taking time out of your day is definitely appreciated.

Thanks Jesse
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:15 AM   #2
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I would be concerned with the oil in the air-brakes wet-tank. I just replaced my compressor, and that was an issue that was mentioned. A newly rebuilt compressor ain't cheap, though. But it's your brakes!
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Old 04-06-2021, 08:09 PM   #3
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Well I pulled the front timing cover and noticed a groove around the cam gear. Not sure if thatís normal, it doesnít look like it should be there. Like itís rubbing the rear timing cover.

What does that mean? What is wrong now!

Also apparently none of my timing marks is correct on my gears, I had the crank damper on TDC but it must have been off a revaluation. Because itís off. I donít know!

This is the times I wish I just built a tiny house on a trailer. At least you wouldnít have to deal with the drivetrain, and just haul it.
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Old 04-06-2021, 08:24 PM   #4
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The groove behind the cam gear definitely looks like machining marks from the factory. I've never looked that closely at another DT front cover but that definitely looks like machining marks to me. If it were from the cam gear I would think the marks would all be going in one direction.
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Old 04-07-2021, 06:17 AM   #5
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looks like machine marks to me.. if the timing marks were off a half rev the engine wouldnt even run
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Old 04-07-2021, 07:29 AM   #6
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Wow. You are tearing into it.

How much play between the gear and the back plate.
Are the mating gears flush , flat with each other..
It could be machines but it sure would not make any sense or purpose other then that they had to make it fit.
Does that shaft has any axial play?

You are going pretty deep. Not sure if the reliability in itself is going to be better but now that you are becoming an expert the bond between man and machine is much stronger and that will pay of when you need it most.

Nice work,
Johan
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Old 04-11-2021, 09:32 PM   #7
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Do you have a service manual?
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Old 04-11-2021, 09:44 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone for the input! Iíve been pretty busy and havenít had time to post.

I did happen to get the rear half of the timing cover off, it was a real pain in the butt.

I was trying to get the HPOP off and cracked a bolt loose thinking it went to the timing cover, it didnít. Went to snug it up and was going to torque it later, well it seemed like it stripped🤬🤬

That kinda ticked me off, like I need anymore problems. Oh well it happened. Nothing I can do about it now.

The gasket on the rear cover on one of the water jackets on the left hand side did look burnt looking and like maybe the gasket failed there. Not sure.

Pretty tired, I hope I can get this thing back together, I hate tearing into something and taking weeks to get it back together, Iíve got narcolepsy and that doesnít help my memory lol. But Iíll keep plugging away.

It was dark so couldnít get a good picture. Thanks everyone for the input so far! Itís always nice to hear others input and helps me to stay motivated!
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Old 04-11-2021, 09:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmattarn View Post
Do you have a service manual?
No not a hard copy, I believe I’ve got a link to a online one, not sure if it’s the exact one I’m needing, but I’ve been thinking about ordering a hard copy off of ebay.
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Old 04-11-2021, 11:19 PM   #10
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As a fellow DT466e owner, I'm rooting for you here, man. As a non-mechanic I can't do a damn thing for you except link to Youtube videos I've seen on rebuilds of this engine and offer to take pics of my healthy engine if you need them for reference.
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Old 04-12-2021, 08:36 PM   #11
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Well I got the rear half of the timing cover on! Glad to be putting something back on instead of taking it off.

I tried to clean everything really good, and went ahead and removed the HPOP and the compressor/power steering.

I did confirm one of the bolts in the HPOP is stripped, not sure how, because I was just snugging it up when it happened.

I would like to rebuild the compressor while I have it off instead of just replace it, I wonder if thatís something I can do myself.

Got my 4FT torque wrench, now I got to figure out how Iím going to fit it in there. 😬
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Old 04-12-2021, 08:52 PM   #12
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While you have this down are you going to check the oil cooler? I would.
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Old 04-12-2021, 09:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
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While you have this down are you going to check the oil cooler? I would.
Definitely will be pulling it off to check it! Iíll probably end up replacing it, by the time I close it up, the only gaskets Iíll havenít pulled is the valve cover and head gasket.

Who knows I may even end up getting in there before itís over.
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Old 04-12-2021, 09:20 PM   #14
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These delays will repay you later with a more reliable power train. Tows on these things are expensive.
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Old 04-12-2021, 10:20 PM   #15
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These delays will repay you later with a more reliable power train. Tows on these things are expensive.
I recommend titling your bus as an RV, then getting AAA+RV roadside assistance for $85 a year. Covers 4 tows up to 100 miles each. A single 100 mile tow of a bus would cost upwards of $1000. Ive had mine towed a bunch while I was working the kinks out
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Old 04-12-2021, 10:51 PM   #16
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Definitely will be pulling it off to check it! Iíll probably end up replacing it, by the time I close it up, the only gaskets Iíll havenít pulled is the valve cover and head gasket.

Who knows I may even end up getting in there before itís over.
Wow! You are really getting in there! I know how you feel though, I did this kind of thing when I put a used engine in my Subaru...just did every gasket besides splitting the case.

I'm going to be doing some work on my DT466e this year and probably a reman or rebuild air compressor is in the future for me. Did you have to remove the front cover to take off your compressor? or would you to take off the drive gear for it?
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Old 04-13-2021, 06:11 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by laegion View Post
Wow! You are really getting in there! I know how you feel though, I did this kind of thing when I put a used engine in my Subaru...just did every gasket besides splitting the case.

I'm going to be doing some work on my DT466e this year and probably a reman or rebuild air compressor is in the future for me. Did you have to remove the front cover to take off your compressor? or would you to take off the drive gear for it?

There are two pretty good sized bolts that go through the timing cover into the compressor, they get torqued to 46 pounds. On mine I was already pulling the radiator, but to me it looks like it would be tuff to get those bolts in there while the radiator was in.

I definitely think you donít have to pull the cover to replace the compressor, the drive gear on the compressor fits through the hole on the back of the timing cover.

The compressor on mine, is heavy though, I think itís going to be tuff getting it back in.
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Old 04-13-2021, 08:35 PM   #18
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I got the idler gear bolts torqued down, the top to 240 and bottom to 470. Had to order two sockets to fit, 20mm 12 point 3/4 drive and 16mm 12 point 3/4 drive.

I replaced both bolts with new ones from international. Had to remove the front engine bracket to fit the torque wrench in there. Itís 48Ē long.

My wifeís dad had to see how I was going to fit that big torque wrench in there lol.
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Old 04-13-2021, 10:21 PM   #19
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I got the idler gear bolts torqued down, the top to 240 and bottom to 470. Had to order two sockets to fit, 20mm 12 point 3/4 drive and 16mm 12 point 3/4 drive.



I replaced both bolts with new ones from international. Had to remove the front engine bracket to fit the torque wrench in there. Itís 48Ē long.



My wifeís dad had to see how I was going to fit that big torque wrench in there lol.
I didnt replace those 2 bolts, im really hoping that doesn't screw me later
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Old 04-14-2021, 06:20 AM   #20
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According to international just the top one gets replaced, I thought both did and bought both bolts, I went ahead and used both new ones. Top one has some kind of sealant on it, I know itís screwed into a coolant passage, when I pulled that bolt antifreeze ran out of the bolt hole.
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