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Old 05-24-2019, 11:04 AM   #21
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Getting closer, got the injectors put in last night, but am going to need to get . a smaller torque wrench to snug them down with.

Think i am going to stick with the current harness for now. Seems in good shape, and it looks like the clips go way up in there so i don't think there will be an issue with that one connector.

Once I get everything back together, what is the trick to getting everything primed? I also have new fuel filters that go in

Thanks, dave
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:02 PM   #22
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Getting closer, got the injectors put in last night, but am going to need to get . a smaller torque wrench to snug them down with.



Think i am going to stick with the current harness for now. Seems in good shape, and it looks like the clips go way up in there so i don't think there will be an issue with that one connector.



Once I get everything back together, what is the trick to getting everything primed? I also have new fuel filters that go in



Thanks, dave
Usually just crank it till it starts . keep an I on that connection they can send you on a lot of goose chases
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:56 PM   #23
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I think your year of 466 does have a fuel primer pump to at least pump the rail full..(a little plunger pump on the left side of the engine



crank for 10 seconds wait for 20 seconds, crank for 10.. etc.. have a battery charger on the batteries.. it wont start with low batteries..

-Christopher
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Old 05-24-2019, 01:06 PM   #24
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Some dt466 have a screw on filter, the ones with the green canister have a prime plunger at the bottom of the canister you turn to the left and pump. I think it just primes the filter canister though, not sure about the rail.
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Old 05-24-2019, 01:18 PM   #25
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It should prime the whole system up to the fuel pump. Once the plunger starts to get hard to push, lock it in place and crank. You'll have to try cranking a few times before the fuel and oil will get to the injectors. Once it does start, it will run rough until the air is all bled from the system.

Replace the harness, in your picture, the connector between your middle and pointer finger looks to be missing a terminal.
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:52 AM   #26
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Appreciate the advice guys.

the clip on the wiring harness that seemed to be gone was actually just pushed back a little bit. i was able to push it back forward to where it actually went and made sure the wire didn't slip when i plugged it into the injector.

Think i got it all put back together yesterday, but the batteries were too low to turn the engine over so let them charge overnight.

Fresh oil, oil and fuel filters changed. Filled with liquid through the outer holes before installing.

Also, I found the fuel primer pump as mentioned and pushed up and down like 100 times. at that point the line going into the fuel rail wasn't quite tight and loosening it a bit had fuel there. Tightened it back up.

Briefly tried to start this morning, no luck, tried 2x for prob 10 seconds each.
Did show an error code 108 but haven't been able to see what that is . yet.

Will try again tonight.
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:24 AM   #27
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code 108 or the PID for the code is 108? I dont have a code 108 in my book.. PID 108 relates to the Baro sensor.. (maybe got unplugged by accident? although the sensor is supposed to be under the dash someplace according to the book)..
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:35 AM   #28
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Appreciate the advice guys.



the clip on the wiring harness that seemed to be gone was actually just pushed back a little bit. i was able to push it back forward to where it actually went and made sure the wire didn't slip when i plugged it into the injector.



Think i got it all put back together yesterday, but the batteries were too low to turn the engine over so let them charge overnight.



Fresh oil, oil and fuel filters changed. Filled with liquid through the outer holes before installing.



Also, I found the fuel primer pump as mentioned and pushed up and down like 100 times. at that point the line going into the fuel rail wasn't quite tight and loosening it a bit had fuel there. Tightened it back up.



Briefly tried to start this morning, no luck, tried 2x for prob 10 seconds each.

Did show an error code 108 but haven't been able to see what that is . yet.



Will try again tonight.
What is your icp at cranking speed ?
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:47 PM   #29
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I couldn't get the pump to ever build any pressure, so I replaced it and it still does nothing, only the resistance of the spring in it. Pumped a couple hundred times, nothing. Hopefully the tech coming tomorrow will have her up and running. Mine sits right on top and behind the fuel filter. Still trying to find out where the opening is on my airfilter housing so I can try some starter fluid.
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:55 PM   #30
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I had to positvely pressurize my DT360 system once... couldnt get the lift pump to ever pull fuel no matter how much I cranked and stabbed that pump.. I took the line off where it came from the tank and into the water separator and pushed fuel fro ma jub with a hand pump and stabbed that little pump. and finally got it to start on its own.. once I hooked back up to the tank all was good... not sure why sometimes that hand pump seems to do zero...
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:07 PM   #31
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The mechanic said they pressurize the tank sometimes to help, by putting a rag over the opening and blowing air into the tank. Sorry, but I just don't see how that method would build more than a lb or 2 trying to pressurize through a rag. Would it help to drill a hole in the cap and mount a Schrader valve and pressurize it to 4-5lbs
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:16 PM   #32
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it doesnt take much to move a column of fuel out of the tank.. 4-5 PSI is a lot of pressure on such a big area of metal.. seems like you would oil can it, a schraeder, a bicycle pump going EASY and taking a line loose as close to the pump as you can get till fuel runs out..tighten and see if the primer works while the tank is Slightly pressurized..
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:45 PM   #33
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it doesnt take much to move a column of fuel out of the tank.. 4-5 PSI is a lot of pressure on such a big area of metal.. seems like you would oil can it, a schraeder, a bicycle pump going EASY and taking a line loose as close to the pump as you can get till fuel runs out..tighten and see if the primer works while the tank is Slightly pressurized..
I had to do some pressure washing way off grid one time - l needed a 5 gal per minute water supply, so l came up with the 'bright' idea of half filling a home heating fuel oil tank with water and pressurizing it with air to achieve the needed flowq rate - it took VERY little air before the tank was the shape of a balloon - the upside was perhaps a balloon shape holds more water - lol - it takes very little air pressure to move a lot of fluid, or to inflate a steel tank - lol
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Old 05-27-2019, 03:40 PM   #34
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I had to do some pressure washing way off grid one time - l needed a 5 gal per minute water supply, so l came up with the 'bright' idea of half filling a home heating fuel oil tank with water and pressurizing it with air to achieve the needed flowq rate - it took VERY little air before the tank was the shape of a balloon - the upside was perhaps a balloon shape holds more water - lol - it takes very little air pressure to move a lot of fluid, or to inflate a steel tank - lol

the operative word is PSI.. or pounds per square inch.. the larger the piece of metal the more the total "weight" against it.. and obviously the bigger the piece the more it has to span without structural components.. when you start doing the math , numbers get big quick.. onside of a gas tank .. 48 inches long by 20 inches wide. and next thing you know you have 2 tons of pressure on it at 4 or 5 PSI... !
-Christopher
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:06 PM   #35
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the operative word is PSI.. or pounds per square inch.. the larger the piece of metal the more the total "weight" against it.. and obviously the bigger the piece the more it has to span without structural components.. when you start doing the math , numbers get big quick.. onside of a gas tank .. 48 inches long by 20 inches wide. and next thing you know you have 2 tons of pressure on it at 4 or 5 PSI... !
-Christopher
I was quite aware of lbs per sq inch, and gals per minute as I worked with it as part of my business - what surprised me ( I guess because i didn't think I needed to calculate it first ) was how little air pressure it took to deliver 5 gal per minute through a garden hose, and how little pressure it took to make a giant steel beach ball out of a heating oil tank - 4 or 5 lbs of air pressure is ample to squirt diesel oil out of a small line - it might even create a bulge in the fuel tank - from experience I know that blowing into the filler pipe can quickly feed gasoline to an old style gas pump mounted on the side of a motor in the other end of a car - The old pumps would get worn and couldn't suck gas from the tank once the car had run out of gas - you primed it ( after adding gas to the tank ) by loosening the gas line on the fuel pump and blowing in the tank ( make sure your cigarette smoking buddies are standing well back - lol )
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:15 PM   #36
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I was quite aware of lbs per sq inch, and gals per minute as I worked with it as part of my business - what surprised me ( I guess because i didn't think I needed to calculate it first ) was how little air pressure it took to deliver 5 gal per minute through a garden hose, and how little pressure it took to make a giant steel beach ball out of a heating oil tank - 4 or 5 lbs of air pressure is ample to squirt diesel oil out of a small line - it might even create a bulge in the fuel tank - from experience I know that blowing into the filler pipe can quickly feed gasoline to an old style gas pump mounted on the side of a motor in the other end of a car - The old pumps would get worn and couldn't suck gas from the tank once the car had run out of gas - you primed it ( after adding gas to the tank ) by loosening the gas line on the fuel pump and blowing in the tank ( make sure your cigarette smoking buddies are standing well back - lol )

I tried blowing into a tank line once.. yeah got the wrong one so when I stopped I got a face full of fuel... (I blew in the supply by accident and the return was stopped up. ugh... little hand pump like i use for transferring oil from a 5 gallon bucket to the engine works.. it will pump air in small quantities which is perfect for this type of stuff.. like you say doesnt take much..
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:19 PM   #37
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I tried blowing into a tank line once.. yeah got the wrong one so when I stopped I got a face full of fuel... (I blew in the supply by accident and the return was stopped up. ugh... little hand pump like i use for transferring oil from a 5 gallon bucket to the engine works.. it will pump air in small quantities which is perfect for this type of stuff.. like you say doesnt take much..
I feel better now knowing that I'm not the only one that makes mistakes - lol
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:17 PM   #38
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What is your icp at cranking speed ?
tried again tonight, first few cranks, i don't think it moved from 0

the second few cranks it ranged from maybe 150 to 450

the next crank.... It started


Seems to run great although i am not at a point where i can drive it around yet.
Still some smoke coming out of the pipe after prob 10 minutes of running although nothing like it was.

I am hoping maybe the smoke goes away after it has a chance to warm up to normal operating temps, idk.


Thanks sooo much for all the help on here, you guys have been great!
I wouldn't have even tried this had it not been for the support here.


That being said, i still have a long way to go and lots to learn
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:31 PM   #39
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Sounds like you got the hpop primed with oil it speeds up the process if you fill the resivore from the top as opposed to cranking till it's full from the oil pump
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Old 05-28-2019, 08:06 AM   #40
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