Dt466e no start - Page 2

rensch26 · 02-06-2019, 10:14 PM

By '04 I think they had switched to a different fuel filter/primer housing than what was on slightly earlier 466E's. Earlier housings actually have the fuel filter hanging with their openings facing up.

Your fuel filter housing should have a round knob on it. That is your primer. I'm not sure where the schrader or air valve is on the housing if there is one at all. Most likely at the top of the housing in an effort to get all the air out.

rensch26 · 02-06-2019, 10:17 PM

Can you post up a picture of your fuel filter housing?

Does it look like this one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4f0m--W2Vw

Entech.medic · 02-06-2019, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rensch26

Can you post up a picture of your fuel filter housing?

Does it look like this one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4f0m--W2Vw

Yes it does, with the exception of the bleeder valve. And the primer that he replaced looks like mine(in the very beginning of the video you see the one he removed on the wheel well and it looks just like mine. But it is immobile. Not sure if it's just seized or designed that way. On my cap it says "use drain to vent" but indent really understand how a drain on the bottom will let air escape?

Mannix · 02-06-2019, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Entech.medic

Another example is everything unread says I should have a coolant filter. I bought a new one but for the life of me can not find it anywhere, and it's not exactly a tiny filter! So that's why I'm hoping someone here can share some wisdom! Thanks for the input/ideas you guys are throwing out!

I have a DT466 front engine bus. My coolant filter is located on the "passenger side", near the front.

Mannix · 02-07-2019, 12:22 AM

How wet did the engine get during the coolant exchange? Was it still wet when the problem started? If yes, maybe a wet connection is creating a fault that is preventing the bus from starting.

EastCoastCB · 02-07-2019, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Entech.medic

Yes, it has been disconnected since I purchased it. It was unplugged from the sensor at the reserve tank. I squeezed all hoses repeatedly while topping off and i used the bleeder screw on the top of the tube e that goes to the thermostat. Similar to what you would do in a car/truck. I have researched coolants and although there are many many different opinions out there it seems the red heavy duty with sca is the general consensus. But I may be wrong?

Be very careful with ether. You have an intake grid heater.
Your bus came with red. Did you flush the system?
The heaters have quite a bit of coolant in them.
The 04 I had was swapped to blue cummins coolant by the school. I have no idea why but I'll bet it was after the tsb.
There was a tsb for that engine. If/when they started to leak the dealer would put "block sealer" in it. Total shadetree stuff.

Entech.medic · 02-07-2019, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mannix

I have a DT466 front engine bus. My coolant filter is located on the "passenger side", near the front.

Thanks. Any chance you could tell me what its mounted to or have a picture of it? Thanks again

Entech.medic · 02-07-2019, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mannix

How wet did the engine get during the coolant exchange? Was it still wet when the problem started? If yes, maybe a wet connection is creating a fault that is preventing the bus from starting.

It didnt really get wet. Coolant pretty much fell down into container. Thanks!

Entech.medic · 02-07-2019, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Be very careful with ether. You have an intake grid heater.
Your bus came with red. Did you flush the system?
The heaters have quite a bit of coolant in them.
The 04 I had was swapped to blue cummins coolant by the school. I have no idea why but I'll bet it was after the tsb.
There was a tsb for that engine. If/when they started to leak the dealer would put "block sealer" in it. Total shadetree stuff.

To be honest this is my flush. I've filled it up with distilled water to flush it when I started having this problem. Just kind of figured it would be easier to say coolant swap instead of explaining that I'm flushing it with water. So the dealer would put block sealer in when the sleeves would start leaking? I wouldnt think that would last very long. I've never seen blue coolant! Thanks!

EastCoastCB · 02-07-2019, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Entech.medic

To be honest this is my flush. I've filled it up with distilled water to flush it when I started having this problem. Just kind of figured it would be easier to say coolant swap instead of explaining that I'm flushing it with water. So the dealer would put block sealer in when the sleeves would start leaking? I wouldnt think that would last very long. I've never seen blue coolant! Thanks!

I was a pretty big fan of Navistar products. Still like a lot of them but I sure was let down when I found out about that block sealer tsb.

Entech.medic · 02-07-2019, 08:04 AM

Yeah I can understand that. But just goes to show you that just because it's a dealer doesnt mean its good work!

EastCoastCB · 02-07-2019, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Entech.medic

Yeah I can understand that. But just goes to show you that just because it's a dealer doesnt mean its good work!

I don't think the quality of work is as much the issue. Corporate's fix was to do that.

Entech.medic · 02-07-2019, 11:33 AM

Alright guys, bus still wont crank. I was able to get the plunger lose and use it. Previous owner had used rtv or something to seal it. I cleaned it up, replaced the o rings and reinstalled. I disconnected the the injector harnesses, pumped the primer until very hard and bled. I did that 6 rounds then would turn the motor over for about 20 seconds. I repeated that whole process half a dozen times. Plugged harnesses back in and attempted to start. It still not start. The problem I'm seeing is that I dont have a schrader valve on my filter housing. The cap says to vent using drain so each time the primer got hard I'd vent out the drain. However, im not seeing how this will get rid of air seeing as it drains out if the bottom. Each time I drained it it looked the same. No noticeable difference from the first time I drained to the 36th time i drained. Definitely struggling here if anyone has any ideas.

cadillackid · 02-07-2019, 12:10 PM

is your WARN light coming on at all now?

Entech.medic · 02-07-2019, 12:13 PM

No, still no warning light on

Entech.medic · 02-07-2019, 09:31 PM

Update: I replaced the primer pump and bought a cap with a valve ($110 ouch!) As mine didnt have one. I primed the pump and vented until no air. Then with injector harnesses unplugged cranked about 20 seconds. Repeated 6 times. Had good pressure in the filter housing each time with no real air escaping. I also pulled the two fuel lines going to low pressure pump and replaced orings. Plugged injector harnesses back in and tried to start. No go. Still wont start. Warning light was on while harnesses were unplugged but went off once plugged in. I havent tried ether again. Anybody got any suggestions on how else to bleed this or anything else I should try? Thanks

Mannix · 02-11-2019, 02:24 PM

Any luck yet?

Booyah45828 · 02-12-2019, 04:21 PM

Did you ever check for codes? What's the oil level look like?

dt466e uses heui injectors and if the hpop is going out you'll have what you're experiencing. Won't start on it's own but will start and continue running if a little ether is used. Has to do with the pump not making enough pressure while cranking, but will make enough to keep it running if it's already running. You could also have bad injector o-rings to cause this.

Rawlings · 02-13-2019, 03:46 PM

This might be a longshot but I am assuming DT means detroit. I have a crown with DT 671. I took the bus to get the tires changed and when I got back the bus wouldn't start it would crank but not fully turn on, I was so scared, I diagnosed everything and nothing.... then one of the shop guys said when they moved the bus the engine wouldn't shut so the young guy pressed the "Engine Shut Off Button by the key ignition" haha thats an emergency button and will drop a lever somewhere which suffocates the engine and will shut it off, if that lever doesn't get manually re-adjusted the bus will crank but won't turn on because there's not enough air I am guessing, anyways after I readjusted the lever the bus turned on!! Hopefully this is it for you!! You might have an emergency engine button that got moved or the lever got moved when changing the coolent or something look for that!!!!

Dirtdoctor · 02-13-2019, 04:02 PM

does the engine turn over? Is it in neutral- my neutralLockout switch broke -internal inside the transmission, so I bypassed it. Check the sensors on the face of the engine- unplugged it will turn over but never fire.
Wiggle and ensure it’s in solid contact. It’s on the timing cover easiest to reach on the right hand side of the engine

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