DT466E Oil Cooler Lines & Fittings

[halfdime]

I’m in the process of adding an in-line Setrab oil cooler for some added heat rejection. Runs a little warmer than I would like and trying to get things dialed before any towing.

Anyone happen to have an idea of an oil filter relocate kit or line / thread sizes for the existing oil lines?

I would guess in-line at the heat exchanger or oil filter housing would be a good insertion point within the oil loop.


2002 DT466E / 24V elec tan conversion

Setrab sells the fittings, M22 to AN10,12,14,16, just don’t have a good feel other than order and try.. anyone know off hand?

Thanks!
Dave

[Booyah45828]

What's your current oil temp? IIRC the dt466e has an eot pid that you can monitor with a scangauge or bluefire. I'd check that before I'd commit to doing this.

Truthfully I feel you're wasting your time.

The dt466 has a pretty efficient oil cooler from the factory, and it's almost unheard of having too hot of engine oil on one. Don't get me wrong, they'll overheat, even more so in an RE bus. But that's not from too hot of engine oil. Being an RE bus, I'd look more into making sure your current cooling system is in tip top shape, including the fan and drives, as that will do more to keep you cool then an additional oil cooler. RE buses are just notoriously hard to keep cool because of no ram air for the radiator, it needs the fan blowing for air movement and cooling.

[halfdime]

Much longer story. Thanks for the input.

To keep it simple, just looking for answer the question, not the design guidance ;)

[Booyah45828]

Okay, well, since you're having oil temp issues, I assume you went with your electric cooling fans and are running hot, so you're trying to eliminate heat sources to the coolant. If that's the case, you might as well grab 2 oil coolers and run the transmission through it's own cooler as well.

I'm sorry that I'm not much help, I've only got experience with stock stuff and repairing it so that it works. You're in uncharted territory with this, which is why searching reveals nothing, and commenters are few and far between.

Bigger the better as far as the lines go, stock oil system pumps something like 30+ gpm IIRC. So AN16+, I think they make AN20? You can get hydraulic hoses 1" or larger, but I don't think they're cheap. Moral of the story is that I wouldn't skimp, as resistance to flow could be catastrophic.

Also, be sure to adjust your oil level by the volume you've increased it, you don't want to pump the pan dry.

[cadillackid]

ive really only seen oil temp issues really when there is too much blowby or the coolant temp is too hot.. in the case of the latter, the liner seals wont be long for this world..

[halfdime]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Okay, well, since you're having oil temp issues, I assume you went with your electric cooling fans and are running hot, so you're trying to eliminate heat sources to the coolant. If that's the case, you might as well grab 2 oil coolers and run the transmission through it's own cooler as well.

I'm sorry that I'm not much help, I've only got experience with stock stuff and repairing it so that it works. You're in uncharted territory with this, which is why searching reveals nothing, and commenters are few and far between.
.

Correct, overall VERY happy with the setup, just fine tuning. Exactly the approach on decoupling trans ans engine as 2nd step. In-line cooler first.

Thanks for the response, hopefully this thread will help someone. I also know I’m in custom design test uncharted territory (and I signed up for it). You would not believe the swag methods of industry engineering approach from parts MFGs.

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Bigger the better as far as the lines go, stock oil system pumps something like 30+ gpm IIRC. So AN16+, I think they make AN20? You can get hydraulic hoses 1" or larger, but I don't think they're cheap. Moral of the story is that I wouldn't skimp, as resistance to flow could be catastrophic.

Also, be sure to adjust your oil level by the volume you've increased it, you don't want to pump the pan dry.

Also helpful. I’m trying to keep pressure drop as low as possible and all the custom / alternate thought parts ideas are appreciated as well. Overall oil radiator is less than 1psi at flow plus fittings.

I’ll recap all this when I’m done.

[halfdime]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

ive really only seen oil temp issues really when there is too much blowby or the coolant temp is too hot.. in the case of the latter, the liner seals wont be long for this world..

I removed upper cowling for engine bay intake, added door pickups and swapped to 6x24vx1200cfm fans that push 2” of external static resistance at full cfm flow.

I can almost blow away small children when standing behind it at idle.

Operational issue is the temp creep on 105F highway days on the long low grade climbs at 65 MPH. Hits 220 per scan gauge.

[Booyah45828]

Originally Posted by halfdime

I removed upper cowling for engine bay intake, added door pickups and swapped to 6x24vx1200cfm fans that push 2” of external static resistance at full cfm flow.

I can almost blow away small children when standing behind it at idle.

Operational issue is the temp creep on 105F highway days on the long low grade climbs at 65 MPH. Hits 220 per scan gauge.

What's your coolant temp when it's at 220?

If it mirrors oil temp then congrats, the system is working.

220 oil temp itself isn't hot IMO, especially if you're against the governor pulling a head wind while loaded 30k lbs. My oil temp will mirror coolant temp when on the interstate, which can be anywhere from 210-220°F. Thermostat is a 195 unit, so it's going to run that warm.

Now, 220 is warmer then what I expect to see driving around town, but it's still not outlandish or overheating.

I too feel that a 466's liner o-rings will last longer at cooler temps. But newer ones have a thermostat of 195, which is fully open at 210 or so. With those, 220 isn't out of line or hot when loaded. Old models with a 180 thermostat, yes 220 is hot and people would be losing there minds at 220.

[halfdime]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

What's your coolant temp when it's at 220?

If it mirrors oil temp then congrats, the system is working.

220 oil temp itself isn't hot IMO, especially if you're against the governor pulling a head wind while loaded 30k lbs. My oil temp will mirror coolant temp when on the interstate, which can be anywhere from 210-220°F. Thermostat is a 195 unit, so it's going to run that warm.

Now, 220 is warmer then what I expect to see driving around town, but it's still not outlandish or overheating.

I too feel that a 466's liner o-rings will last longer at cooler temps. But newer ones have a thermostat of 195, which is fully open at 210 or so. With those, 220 isn't out of line or hot when loaded. Old models with a 180 thermostat, yes 220 is hot and people would be losing there minds at 220.

Along the way I’ve replaced the T-stat (195F) and coolant radiator. It will idle all day long at 190-195F. It’s defiantly highway creep under load. Slowing is an easy fix, just annoying.

Did make the mistake of needing to make a large grade climb out of a park in Arkansas that I thought I was going to loose a piston. I hit the temp alarm at 227 (per scan gauge). I honestly have not paid a ton of attention to temp splits between oil and coolant temp, but at the rate it “recovers” from high temp, it’s working; just needs a bit more help or I need to carve off the trans.

Thanks for throwing out thoughts.

Ps: I’m 29.8k Lbs

[sportyrick]

The tans cooler goes through the radiator to help heat the oil to get rid of moisture and acids from fluid especially in the winter, I wouldn't take it out of the loop.