IC RE300 No Start

[Dsuhoski]

Hello,

We have a 2006 IC re300 with a DT466e and Allison 3000 series. We've been slowly working on our conversion and the bus hasn't been started for a while. It started up great last time and we haven't made any modifications to electrical or anything since it started last.

When we put the key in and switch it to on, all the lights on the dash come on, gauges cycle through, and the low air warning beeps since it's empty. The problem is that the "wait to start" light doesn't turn off like it used to. All the other warning lights stay lit as well. If you try to crank it, it just clicks and doesn't try to do anything. There is also a click from the selonoid in the fuse panel by the seat. Both batteries are brand new, thinking that was the issue originally, but it didn't make a difference. Checked all the fuses already. Could possibly be a relay? Maybe fuel isn't primed? I'm not sure what would cause it to not try to do anything. I don't have a code scanner for it yet, and obviously I can't start it to take it to see if there's any codes. If anyone had a similar experience or any ideas please let me know. Thank you!

[skoontz]

For your bus, there should be an engine shut off switch in the engine compartment. I had the problem where my bus would not start because I had bumped the switch in the rear, and I think (but don't remember for sure) that I had similar symptoms. If that doesn't work, I would also try to open and shut all of the emergency doors/windows, just to make sure that the sensors are reading the closed position.

[Dbacks2k4]

On the REs check the red "engine kill" switch in the engine compartment. This is a video I made a while back with some generic DT466e no-start troubleshooting steps...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDgauk3lEN4

[Dsuhoski]

Thanks for the replies! I did go check the engine kill switch in the back and it is set to run. I was hoping that was the issue and it was an easy fix haha. All of the safety interlock wiring from doors and windows has been removed a while ago (started and ran fine after removing). Any other reason the dash warning and wait to start lights won't go out and let me try to start it? Here's a pic of what's lit up in case that matters. Also, the volt meter drops when the key is turned on, when it's off it reads in the green over 12.

[Dbacks2k4]

Originally Posted by Dsuhoski

Thanks for the replies! I did go check the engine kill switch in the back and it is set to run. I was hoping that was the issue and it was an easy fix haha. All of the safety interlock wiring from doors and windows has been removed a while ago (started and ran fine after removing). Any other reason the dash warning and wait to start lights won't go out and let me try to start it? Here's a pic of what's lit up in case that matters. Also, the volt meter drops when the key is turned on, when it's off it reads in the green over 12.

The voltage drop is normal while the wait to start light is on. That means the grid heater is running which sucks up a ton of juice. When the grid heater shuts off and the wait to start light goes off you should see the voltmeter rise back up to normal. If the wait to start light is staying on for longer than 30 seconds it could be a bad sensor or relay. However, your entire dash showing that many warning lights sounds like a bad connector or ground somewhere.

You said the batteries are new - I would also double check that you didn't miss a wire or inadvertantly put a wire on the wrong terminal (I've done it a dozen times). Also double check none of the fuses attached to the wires in the battery box are blown. There should be at least one if not three in there.

Beyond that, unfortunately I think you're at the point of needing either a code scanner, or what I recommend a Nexiq adapter (or chinese knockoff) and a copy of Servicemaxx to read the codes.

[frostybeer]

Is this resolved?

[Dsuhoski]

Originally Posted by frostybeer

Is this resolved?

Not yet unfortunately. We're going to have to get a mechanic to come out or just someone who can scan the codes to see what's going on. We're not in a huge hurry to take it anywhere yet, but I still want to be able to start it and run it.

[cadillackid]

I see you are in the C-bus.. I have the software to read your computer.. im guessing there will be one of the smaller BAT+ power wires cut or damaged someplace causing the issue.. but it may be as simple asa wire in the rear control box.. the RE were sort of infamous for having bad key switches either in the rear box or the front dash which would cause no-starts..

[Dsuhoski]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I see you are in the C-bus.. I have the software to read your computer.. im guessing there will be one of the smaller BAT+ power wires cut or damaged someplace causing the issue.. but it may be as simple asa wire in the rear control box.. the RE were sort of infamous for having bad key switches either in the rear box or the front dash which would cause no-starts..

Yep we're just south of Columbus in the Lockbourne/Obetz area. If you're in the area and have time that would be awesome! I can pay you for a diagnostic or whatever you charge. I was trying to find a mobile diesel mechanic or someone that could help out, so that may be perfect. If you want to send me contact info, or I can give you mine either way. Thank you!