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Old 03-29-2024, 12:04 PM   #1
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Md3060- intermittent check trans light

So mow on my way back to Texas and another new problem.

Check trans light intermittently hoes on off, engine seems to hiccup too.
At high speed i take my foot of the pedal and step-down again, we keep on driving!
It has happened at least 20 times in the last 200 miles or so, still need to go another 1,000 miles.

Slow crawl, traffic or parking lot she does it too but jumps to N.

At idle, out of the blue engine will hiccup, either tach or mph needle jumps, engine does not stall.

180k miles on trans.
Trans fluid not bright red but it is red, clear almost, not burnt, fluid level good.

Im thinking/ hping electrical.
Gonna check power wiring right now but could really use some ideas here.

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Old 03-29-2024, 12:18 PM   #2
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possible but not likely, I would say a faulty input speed sensor.
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Old 03-29-2024, 12:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albatross View Post
possible but not likely, I would say a faulty input speed sensor.
Hrmmm
Does that mean removing the tires/drum ?

I’m not having any of these issues, hard shifting, limited gear operation, delayed shifting and rough shifts.

She shifts fine but hiccups at high soeed and drops out to N at a crawl
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Old 03-29-2024, 01:07 PM   #4
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Another thing i noticed is that my TCM fuse in the batt box gets warm to the touch and the ECU fuse does not.

The only changes done since last travel was removing the batterries in irder to charge them. They went dead while parked for 2 months in s fla.

Goona undo the terminal and clean everything to see if it still gets warm
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Old 03-29-2024, 02:56 PM   #5
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Well cleaning up the connections did not work and now…. Fan belt just blew off..


Arghhhh !
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Old 03-29-2024, 03:16 PM   #6
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check trans light comes from the TCM so if the TCM loses power you wont get a Check trans light.


almost sounds like the J1939 data link might be intermittent?
that will trigger a check trans light and will also unlock the converter as it then uses the converter slip to approximate throttle load on the transmission.. the speed sense would be lost from the trans to the dashboard.. you would see RPM increase due to unlock and see the MPH die .. either freeze in place or drop to 0.



the output speed sensor is a possibility but you'd likely feel full on downshift into as close to limp mode as it could get..



the speed sensors are on the transmission itself.. im not as familiar with the 3000 as i am the 1000/2000.. but they are typically each external, one near the front and one near the tailshaft, each with a 2 pin weather-PAK connector..



ABS sensors are the ones by the wheels and wouldnt trigger a check trans light if they die or go wonky.. (they will trigger ABS light).. and even those can be removed without taking the wheels off, or hubs apart..
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Old 03-29-2024, 05:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
check trans light comes from the TCM so if the TCM loses power you wont get a Check trans light.


almost sounds like the J1939 data link might be intermittent?
that will trigger a check trans light and will also unlock the converter as it then uses the converter slip to approximate throttle load on the transmission.. the speed sense would be lost from the trans to the dashboard.. you would see RPM increase due to unlock and see the MPH die .. either freeze in place or drop to 0.



the output speed sensor is a possibility but you'd likely feel full on downshift into as close to limp mode as it could get..



the speed sensors are on the transmission itself.. im not as familiar with the 3000 as i am the 1000/2000.. but they are typically each external, one near the front and one near the tailshaft, each with a 2 pin weather-PAK connector..



ABS sensors are the ones by the wheels and wouldnt trigger a check trans light if they die or go wonky.. (they will trigger ABS light).. and even those can be removed without taking the wheels off, or hubs apart..
Thank tou chris,

I had left my chinese nexiq plug in, no laptop.
Would that have caused a j1939 issue ?

All this started last night after using cruise control for the first time.
It was turned off and i turned it back on with servicemaxx.

She shifts fine , smooth, no slippage.

But the check trans light still comes on unexpectedly at idle and shuts off right away without doing anything. Lasts maybe a second, but when it flashes the engine idle seems to go down for that one brief moment and then idles normal.


Next new problem, serpentine tensioner shot! I replaced the belt with a non a/c belt and my engine temps stay at 180, does mot go up.
I onow, good temp, but i saw the same thing when i lost my a/c belt and the the a/c oil lamp came on.
Thats how i founf out belt was gone .

Currently i am stuck at a rest area on I-10, wb at the jefferson county rest area just before Tallahassee.

The tallahassee ic dealer does not have any parts, belt, tensioner or sensor.

Being easter weekend looks like i might stay here at rest area till monday unless i can find parts tomorrow morning.

What can i do to troubleshoot the check trans siruation?
I got another 1,000 miles to go !
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Old 03-29-2024, 06:01 PM   #8
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Anyone know where the j1939 terminating resistors are located on a 2005 re 300. - amtran????
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Old 03-29-2024, 07:27 PM   #9
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I just pulled a code via the tranny pushpad.
Only one stored code
D1=3500
D2= - - (no code stored)

The fuse on the tcm fower wire has a crimped barrel splice.
This wire/fuse was also getting warm to the tuch.

Gonna try crimping a new splice in the morning, nothing to lose right now.

Code 3500 is for power interuption
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Old 03-29-2024, 11:36 PM   #10
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Oh NO!

Maybe check for a loose ground in the J1939 circuit would be my first thought, or the ECM. Maybe find the Box and run a new ground.
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Old 03-30-2024, 06:42 AM   #11
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definitely sounbds like the TCM is rebooting since the only code is a power interrupt.. probably on the BAT circuit.



you cant limp on the non A/C belt to get off the rest area at least? or does ther belt slip as soon as the fan comes on?



im really surprised they have one serp belt driving all of your A/C and the fan and alternator.. that would be the first one ive seen like that.. the A/C is usually driven by a separate pulley mounted on the front of the main.



the diagram i was looking at doesnt show term resistors.. im thinking maybe they are internal to the ECM? its that way ion my IH as there''s none externally.. mine is the previous generation ECM.
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Old 03-30-2024, 12:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
definitely sounbds like the TCM is rebooting since the only code is a power interrupt.. probably on the BAT circuit.



you cant limp on the non A/C belt to get off the rest area at least? or does ther belt slip as soon as the fan comes on?



im really surprised they have one serp belt driving all of your A/C and the fan and alternator.. that would be the first one ive seen like that.. the A/C is usually driven by a separate pulley mounted on the front of the main.



the diagram i was looking at doesnt show term resistors.. im thinking maybe they are internal to the ECM? its that way ion my IH as there''s none externally.. mine is the previous generation ECM.
I put on the non a/c belt and it does slip but at least we limped to the-rest area where we spent the night.
Unhooked the toad and drove 40 miles to town where i was able to get a new serpentine belt and also a new tensioner pulley.

Once i get those on i am gonna cut and recrimp both the power and ground since they are easy to get at in the batt box.

Then i’ll start her up and start wiggling wires to see if i can duplicate the power loss to the TCM.
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Old 03-30-2024, 07:13 PM   #13
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EWO1 is okay guys, He got up and going by replacing the hot wire.

No need to worry anymore, unless he breaks down again.
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Old 03-31-2024, 07:32 AM   #14
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Glad to hear your up and running, your ability to track down the problem and tenacity on the road are inspiring.
Your posts help out this community, thanks.
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Old 03-31-2024, 08:34 AM   #15
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he seriously rocks!! great troubleshooting and getting rolling again!!!
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Old 03-31-2024, 03:48 PM   #16
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Crimp getting warm means high resistance which on the battery voltage supply wire to the TCM will cause that code and other weird issues.
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Old 04-01-2024, 08:30 AM   #17
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made it home !
First i want to say thanks to you guys for the help and suggestions. I have learned so much from everyone here sharing their thoughts and experiences.

The first day out is when the tranny issues began. At first i was concerned it was a result of using the cruise control. The next morning it got worse, dropping into neutral at a slow crawl.
Kim
I mentioned that one of power wires was getting warm to the touch but not getting hot. I did notice my connection could use some cleaning, that didn’t work.

I kept on rolling down the road and that”s when issue #2 came along. i lost the serpentine belt! Bye bye a/c !

Luckily i had a spare mon a/c length serpentine belt. Great thing that on a DT motor you don’t have to disassemble anything to replace the belt. Just feed it thru the fan fins and drop it in place, no tools required!

I didn’t have a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar so i tried to move the tensioner pulley by hand and that’s when i found out how worn out it was. It was relatively easy to move by hand !

This is not normal!
Now i understand why the belt came off but also learned something more important, engine temps.

Before i would always see my temp guage in an overactive “swing”. Meaning that when temps reached 200ish the temp needle would go back and forth from 190 ish to 2100 ish, move back and firth quite a bit.

My can clutch is air operated and i got used to the fact that this was normal.
After replacing the tensioner that all went away and the temp needle became alot more stable in it temp swings.

My thoughts are that the belt was slipping and when the fan clutch kicked in, thats when any cooling control happens.
So now that issue has been fixed !

The tcm…
Going back to troubleshooting 101, always check your power supply FIRST !

With the help of my wife, engine off key on, i merely tapped lightly the fuse holder for the tcm and the check trans light came on and off. Pulled tcm codes and yes, got 3500 again. Tested 3 times, same results.

Cut off inline fuse and replaced. Retested, no more issues!

Drive another 1000 miles to central texas without a hiccup !

Another foolish thing i did, travelling with no tools. For less than 100 bucks i went to a harbor freight in Tallahassee and got a sae/metric 1/2 deep socket set, and both sae/metric wrench set. Dedicating these tools to the bus, nothing else !

So today i’m gonna buy 2 a/c length serpentine belts, 2 inline fuse holders and a six pack of corona to celebrate !

Again, thanks guys for all the wealth of info, knowledge and experiences you share to anyone who asks !
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Old 04-01-2024, 08:36 AM   #18
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Tcm fuse

I’m thinking that the fuse holder was overheating maybe due to the wires breaking inside the insulation.

The fuse holder was hanging iff the side of the battery, bouncing around as you drive which could cause wires breaking over time. Now i have them laying flat and tucked between the batt cables and the too of the battery, no more swinging or bouncing .
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Old 04-01-2024, 09:59 AM   #19
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Could have been the sockets for the fuse in the holder themselves. Who knows, who cares, the fix is replacing the assembly which is what you did.

Good call on finding that the fuse was warm. Copper transmits heat well, sometimes you might find the whole wire warm to the touch if its causing enough resistance. I see those fuses full of corrosion on occasion here in the rust belt.

You ever check codes in either engine or trans with your laptop? I know you said you didn't bring it, but maybe when you got home? If tcm was dropping in/out due to low voltage, engine ecm should have some sort of comms failure code in it from the tcm dropping in/out.
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Old 04-01-2024, 10:09 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Could have been the sockets for the fuse in the holder themselves. Who knows, who cares, the fix is replacing the assembly which is what you did.

Good call on finding that the fuse was warm. Copper transmits heat well, sometimes you might find the whole wire warm to the touch if its causing enough resistance. I see those fuses full of corrosion on occasion here in the rust belt.

You ever check codes in either engine or trans with your laptop? I know you said you didn't bring it, but maybe when you got home? If tcm was dropping in/out due to low voltage, engine ecm should have some sort of comms failure code in it from the tcm dropping in/out.
That is a really good thought on checking for ecu codes. I’m unloading the bus now and will do that when i get done .
Thanks for the suggestion!
Now i’m curious !!!

Ohh, i forgot to mention, no more tcm codes!
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