Not able to get engine over 1500 rpm.

[Gorzie]

Ok we have a plot twist on the RPM issue. (Good info on the oil change stuff by the way)

I plugged in the block heater last night for awhile and started up the engine on the second try after giving the glow plug a few more seconds to warm up then reved it up to just under 1500 and set the idle speed and waited a minute or two then turned off the idle speed. I then reved it up to 2000 plus . Hard to troubleshoot when it is not happening.

I did visually check the ICP and did not see any oil in the connection.

I will still change the oil this weekend when it is back up to the mid 40s or 50s and go on another 5-10 mile drive and see what happens.

[Booyah45828]

Originally Posted by Gorzie

Ok we have a plot twist on the RPM issue. (Good info on the oil change stuff by the way)

I plugged in the block heater last night for awhile and started up the engine on the second try after giving the glow plug a few more seconds to warm up then reved it up to just under 1500 and set the idle speed and waited a minute or two then turned off the idle speed. I then reved it up to 2000 plus . Hard to troubleshoot when it is not happening.

I did visually check the ICP and did not see any oil in the connection.

I will still change the oil this weekend when it is back up to the mid 40s or 50s and go on another 5-10 mile drive and see what happens.

Sorry about that, got side tracked with something I'm passionate about and ran too far with it.

Anyways, with it working fine now, I'd say your engine was in a derate mode due to some fault seen by the computer. That fault is no longer active so it runs normally again. I'd likely disregard the oil change if it's not needed, maybe swap your lights to see the flash patterns like christopher alluded to, or get someone with a scan tool and the right software to read the codes for you.

I'm not fluent with non oem software like your scan gauge, so I'm no help with what you listed in the first post, sorry.

[Gorzie]

I will definitely try swapping some lights in the dash maybe even add some solder to some of the connectors that are lacking it. It would be nice to have the wait to star light and others working again. And do a diagnostic run. That is the button by the computer plug in correct?

As for the oil change I will still do that as I have no idea when it was last changed. I would like to change ,or at least test, all the fluids before I make a bigger trip with MOe. The transmission fluid looks alright the coolant tested ok too. I do need to add power steering fluid and check differential level.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Gorzie

I will definitely try swapping some lights in the dash maybe even add some solder to some of the connectors that are lacking it. It would be nice to have the wait to star light and others working again. And do a diagnostic run. That is the button by the computer plug in correct?

As for the oil change I will still do that as I have no idea when it was last changed. I would like to change ,or at least test, all the fluids before I make a bigger trip with MOe. The transmission fluid looks alright the coolant tested ok too. I do need to add power steering fluid and check differential level.

It's a good idea to take a Sharpie and write the oil change date on the filter itself, so when checking it's easy to know when it was last changed.

[banman]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

What’s the advantage of switching to full synthetic on a 200k engine ? Mine has been fed T4 it’s whole life. Is there reason to switch? And isn’t that really thin oil for a HEUI engine?

The biggest advantage to me is the synthetic oil will maintain it's proper viscosity to a higher temperature. Or, better put, it's less susceptible to thermal breakdown. This is why it will stay cleaner longer, and since all my vehicles are turbo, except the Scout, the higher heat protection is important.
I use the same diesel spec oil in my Scout (same SV as found in dump trucks and school buses...) because it has the higher zinc and phos to help protect the flat-tappet valves of the SV's. Modern spec gas eng oil can slowly kill the cam lobes on your flat tappet engine...

Damn, my TSC was out of the 2½gal jugs. I didn't even think to check the price on the 5gal...

[banman]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

I have gone back and forth on the synthetic Vs conventional oil.

As best I understand it, the primary advantage of extending oil change interval.

I am currently driving less than 6000 miles a year. Eventually I hope to be putting on a lot more miles but until then I will stick with conventional and change twice a year.

Am I missing anything? Any fault in my reasoning?

Absolutely imho... At ~$150.00 for diy oilchange instead of dumping your oil at 3000 miles take an oil sample and send it off to Blackstone labs. For $28 they'll tell you the condition of the oil and give you insight into the wear on your engine. But I think you're changing your oil too often which can actually be detrimental not just to your wallet but to the engine itself -- the constant flush of engine cleaners in the oil never balances out with the zinc and other soft metals preventing wear on startup of your engine.

Drink the koolaide -- let oil analysis run your life -- with the money I just saved you consider buying me a tasty beer!

[banman]

Originally Posted by o1marc

It's a good idea to take a Sharpie and write the oil change date on the filter itself, so when checking it's easy to know when it was last changed.

I use a paint pen on radiator and other hoses.

Thanks for mentioning TSC online --
My local store was out of oil but I just ordered two 2½gal jugs to be delivered to my local store (for free!) at the $43.99 sale price.
They'll email me when the oil comes in!

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by banman

The biggest advantage to me is the synthetic oil will maintain it's proper viscosity to a higher temperature. Or, better put, it's less susceptible to thermal breakdown. This is why it will stay cleaner longer, and since all my vehicles are turbo, except the Scout, the higher heat protection is important.
I use the same diesel spec oil in my Scout (same SV as found in dump trucks and school buses...) because it has the higher zinc and phos to help protect the flat-tappet valves of the SV's. Modern spec gas eng oil can slowly kill the cam lobes on your flat tappet engine...

Damn, my TSC was out of the 2½gal jugs. I didn't even think to check the price on the 5gal...

So T6 has the ZDDP equivalent that flat tappet cams need? Try pickerington I have 4 jugs waiting on me there I online bought and will pick up Friday. West broad was out.

My superior has an SV392 and as of now I have standard 10W40 in it with a zinc additive I used when hot rodding. ( before I built every motor with roller cams)

[banman]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

So T6 has the ZDDP equivalent that flat tappet cams need?
Yes, exactly that.
Try pickerington I have 4 jugs waiting on me there I online bought and will pick up Friday. West broad was out.
And won't have more till next Tuesday... I'm hoping what I ordered comes in sooner. And I hate to drive to Pickerington just for oil... The TSC in London shows it in stock as well...
My superior has an SV392 and as of now I have standard 10W40 in it with a zinc additive I used when hot rodding. ( before I built every motor with roller cams)

The zddp is definitely important to the SV's. Wiping out cam lobes seems to be a thing on them...

I definitely wanna get together soon -- have you see if I've missed any life threatening issues on my bus and show off my "built" SV 304. I am proud of that overhaul -- the bus has distracted me from re-dialing the carb for OH altitudes...

[Gorzie]

ok so i am in the middle of changing the oil and I decided check the power steering fluid and found it is very low what kind of fluid should be used in a 97 international 3800. I have seen everything from motor oil to transmission fluid. and I dont see anything specified in the manuals I have.

[banman]

Originally Posted by Gorzie

ok so i am in the middle of changing the oil and I decided check the power steering fluid and found it is very low what kind of fluid should be used in a 97 international 3800. I have seen everything from motor oil to transmission fluid. and I dont see anything specified in the manuals I have.

Pull the dipstick out and wipe on a white towel/napkin to see the color of the oil.

If it's reddish/pinkish it's ATF and being a '97 I'd use DEX III equivalent.
*The later DEX/Mercon #'s are NOT backwards compatible and should not be used -- The material of the seals/hoses might not be compatible...

If it's golden brown, it's engine oil --

If it smells burnt replace it all.

[backporchguy]

I have a 2002 Ford E450 shuttle bus with a 7.3l. I recently experienced the same symptoms. The problem was the injector wiring harnesses. The wiring harness issue resulted in two injectors not firing (the engine was running on six cylinders). I had the harnesses replaced and glow plugs replaced and the bus runs like a champ.

[Truthseeker4449]

Originally Posted by backporchguy

I have a 2002 Ford E450 shuttle bus with a 7.3l. I recently experienced the same symptoms. The problem was the injector wiring harnesses. The wiring harness issue resulted in two injectors not firing (the engine was running on six cylinders). I had the harnesses replaced and glow plugs replaced and the bus runs like a champ.

I'm almost positive that I've had a similar experience with my '97 truck and it was the Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM). I had poor acceleration, and I think a miss or two. I didn't bother trying to drive too far, was in somewhat of a hurry to get somewhere and to have been towed back would have been horrible.

The truck has broken down so many times that it's getting tough to remember what happened and when....

[Gorzie]

I should have mentioned this first I originally took the top off the resivore and looked in and it looked reddish but I also dipped a white paper towel to verify the color and it was more of an amber color. This is what made me wonder

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Sounds like limp mode.

Limp mode?

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by kidharris

Limp mode?

https://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/limp-mode/

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

What’s the advantage of switching to full synthetic on a 200k engine ? Mine has been fed T4 it’s whole life. Is there reason to switch? And isn’t that really thin oil for a HEUI engine?

I read somewhere that synthetics advantage was that all of the molecules were the same size whereas normal oil was composed of a range of sizes. Don't see where that's much of an advantage with an older engine, maybe someone can set me straight.

[Booyah45828]

Originally Posted by Gorzie

ok so i am in the middle of changing the oil and I decided check the power steering fluid and found it is very low what kind of fluid should be used in a 97 international 3800. I have seen everything from motor oil to transmission fluid. and I dont see anything specified in the manuals I have.

Whether it's atf or engine oil, you can use a generic power steering fluid in it and it will be okay. Most of the time they ran atf in them, but I've ran into issues using atf in certain systems, so I now use power steering fluid and haven't had an issue.

[Gorzie]

Thanks Booyah. I needed about half a quart. I guess I should change that filter too. I never knew that these engines had so many filters impaired to gas engines.

[Booyah45828]

Your power steering has a filter? Is it an inline job found in the return hose? If so, those are nothing more then a screen and possibly a magnet. They're installed after replacement of either the pump or gearbox to capture contaminants that might ruin the new part. They don't need to be replaced at an interval or anything, only when you replace the pump or gearbox again.