Problem Bus!

[JT20]

Originally Posted by s2mikon

Have you finished the inside of your bus? Or is it still bare metal? If you have not finished the bus it is not going to be any harder to repair it. You will get grease and oil inside working on it but at this point it won't matter. Plus you have a place to put all the parts.

No I haven’t finished the inside yet, still bare metal, just got the roof raise completed, I’m glad I haven’t went any further on the inside.

[peteg59]

Air compressor seals might also be the culprit?
If the compressor has cooling lines that go to the rad.?

Good luck, and hope you don't have anything major wrong mechanically...

[JT20]

So i have ordered the scan gauge D, and a radiator pressure tester, so while waiting on that to come from Amazon I have been researching my issues. This evening I was crawling under the bus and found a connector unplugged, which I think is the speed sensor which kinda makes sense, the speedometer never worked. Plugged it in and drove it down the road and it seemed to run better, along with it revved higher to 2600 plus rpms, before it would only go to 2K. Leaving the speed sensor unplugged cause issues? And why would someone unplug it Intentionally? Called LKQ and I’m looking at 2K$ for a reman transmission out of Ohio. I’m probably going to go ahead and replace it, since I want this to be dependable, I don’t want to have to worry about it down the road.

[Rivetboy]

Originally Posted by crowcreekcabin

My dad always told me... Get it running, then make it look pretty...
I learned this the hard way myself despite his advice...
My heart bleeds for you.

I have been building my TC for three years tires, brakes, engine, trans, paint, exterior lighting and as of today i finally took up the floor and sanded and osphoed and am ready to rutoleum it yeah!

Your Dad was right.

[Rivetboy]

Originally Posted by JT20

So i have ordered the scan gauge D, and a radiator pressure tester, so while waiting on that to come from Amazon I have been researching my issues. This evening I was crawling under the bus and found a connector unplugged, which I think is the speed sensor which kinda makes sense, the speedometer never worked. Plugged it in and drove it down the road and it seemed to run better, along with it revved higher to 2600 plus rpms, before it would only go to 2K. Leaving the speed sensor unplugged cause issues? And why would someone unplug it Intentionally? Called LKQ and I’m looking at 2K$ for a reman transmission out of Ohio. I’m probably going to go ahead and replace it, since I want this to be dependable, I don’t want to have to worry about it down the road.

More than likely that unplugged sensor was at least one of your error dodes and possibly some more. Maybe now would be a good time to at least tug test most of your plug in connectors even better to unplug them and spray a little contact cleaner and reseat it. This simple practice has chased many an error code away. Or not your MMV..

[JT20]

Definitely will be going through all the connectors. What was surprising about this one, is there was a zip tie around several plugs and that one was almost an obvious one they left unplugged, it didn’t make a lot of sense to me. But hopefully that solves some issues I’ve been having.

[JT20]

Originally Posted by Rivetboy

I have been building my TC for three years tires, brakes, engine, trans, paint, exterior lighting and as of today i finally took up the floor and sanded and osphoed and am ready to rutoleum it yeah!

Your Dad was right.

I bet yours looks good! I’m definitely going to hold on the inside work until I get this thing mechanically sound and dependable.

[Rivetboy]

This is where I started..

[sportyrick]

Your TOO FAR IN to quit now, I wanted to burn mine to the ground on the way home but figured it out..... eventually. Work out the problems and your knowledge and understanding of what makes your bus tick will just get better with time and money. Getting another one with different problems is just picking another shell (shell game which bus is better). Attention everyone: this bus conversion stuff is not for the faint of heart, if you don't have the gumption to hang with the stubborn dogs and work stuff out then stay on the porch (not hammering on rivetboy). We all have horror stories of our conversions just ask any one of us. I bought a 427 gas motor because I was most familiar with that format, after 13 years of hating it I did a complete conversion to diesel including tranny and rearend and no regrets, but what an absolute ass load of work. Get out of the way, it's fast now. sportyrick

[JT20]

Originally Posted by sportyrick

Your TOO FAR IN to quit now, I wanted to burn mine to the ground on the way home but figured it out..... eventually. Work out the problems and your knowledge and understanding of what makes your bus tick will just get better with time and money. Getting another one with different problems is just picking another shell (shell game which bus is better). Attention everyone: this bus conversion stuff is not for the faint of heart, if you don't have the gumption to hang with the stubborn dogs and work stuff out then stay on the porch (not hammering on rivetboy). We all have horror stories of our conversions just ask any one of us. I bought a 427 gas motor because I was most familiar with that format, after 13 years of hating it I did a complete conversion to diesel including tranny and rearend and no regrets, but what an absolute ass load of work. Get out of the way, it's fast now. sportyrick

Cheers to that! I’m definitely sticking with it to the end. I’m pretty stubborn when I want to be.

[JT20]

Looks like mine, but mostly trans fluid on my end.

[JT20]

So I got the scan gauge today, reset the codes and took it for a spin. It did pretty well, couldn’t get it hot enough to see if the fan was going to engage and never could tell if it did. I got it to 200 and once at 210 which should have engaged the fan when I topped a hill when it did and started going down hill and couldn’t tell a sound difference.

It’s still throwing code 152 when I hit the diagnostic button on the bus, which is BAP Barometric Absolute Pressure signal out-of-range low. I’m not sure where that sensor is located at on a flat nose or what exactly it does. The scan gauge shows code 108, which isn’t really a correct code. So maybe it’s not reading the exact code numbers? Not sure.

Tomorrow I’ll pressurize the coolant system and go from there. I’m not expecting to see any coolant leaks, I would imagine I would have seen something by now with it being ran and up to operating temperature. I’m guessing I’ll either have to drop the pan or pull the oil cooler to find if it’s a oil cooler issue or liners. Possibly pull the radiator to see if there is a leak in it, I don’t so. I’m pretty sure I’m seeing oil in the coolant but can’t seem to find any other fluid mixing.

[JT20]

So I pressurized the radiator this evening and found a leak at the top of the radiator. I’m wondering if I have to pull it to replace it, should I replace it with a factory OEM or change it out with a different design. My current one is the split type, one side radiator and the other is the charge air cooler. Would you get it from international or go after market?

[mokibrabrant]

Originally Posted by JT20

Can a bad timing cover cause fluids to mix? I haven’t heard of that causing fluids to mix. Can bad oil cooler cause fluids to mix?

The simple answer is YES. BACK IN THE DAY WE called them heat exchangers. And it's a basic technic. A series of tubes that carry oil and a series of tubes carrying coolant. The practice being coolant cooling oil. I have NEVER seen oil like what the OP is showing. Frankly doesn't make sense. A leak of oil into the cooling system is going to cause that gray pudding . Same if water escaped into the crankcase.
Pudding. I can only assume there is no coolant in that radiator. Because there appears to be no contamination if the oil there by water. I have dealt with a failed oil cooler in the past. Yup oil in the water. I have dealt with cracked heads and blocks.
Yep oil in the water and sometimes both.
Don't know if the OP checked all these things prior to taking possession of this bus. But overheating will cause these problems. Why anyone would invest money and time in a platform that is ride with unanswered questions is just incredible. And dine far to frequently.
This is a mess. I'm sure the OP agrees.

So much invested in this thing already. Throw into a move to AZ an engine throwing codes, magic clean uncontaminated oil where it shouldn't be....
With all invested already...???
Find a mechanical 8.3 mated to a MT64(3) (4) A running take out....but he'll then what.
Bad place to be. King puns and wheel bearings? You might be better cutting off your beautiful roof, putting it in a flat bed and scrapping that Tennessee bus.
Sorry. If it ain't broke don't fix it and if it is broke don't fix it. Appears to be where you're at with this one. Hate to be the bearer of bad tidings.

[JT20]

Originally Posted by mokibrabrant

The simple answer is YES. BACK IN THE DAY WE called them heat exchangers. And it's a basic technic. A series of tubes that carry oil and a series of tubes carrying coolant. The practice being coolant cooling oil. I have NEVER seen oil like what the OP is showing. Frankly doesn't make sense. A leak of oil into the cooling system is going to cause that gray pudding . Same if water escaped into the crankcase.
Pudding. I can only assume there is no coolant in that radiator. Because there appears to be no contamination if the oil there by water. I have dealt with a failed oil cooler in the past. Yup oil in the water. I have dealt with cracked heads and blocks.
Yep oil in the water and sometimes both.
Don't know if the OP checked all these things prior to taking possession of this bus. But overheating will cause these problems. Why anyone would invest money and time in a platform that is ride with unanswered questions is just incredible. And dine far to frequently.
This is a mess. I'm sure the OP agrees.

So much invested in this thing already. Throw into a move to AZ an engine throwing codes, magic clean uncontaminated oil where it shouldn't be....
With all invested already...???
Find a mechanical 8.3 mated to a MT64(3) (4) A running take out....but he'll then what.
Bad place to be. King puns and wheel bearings? You might be better cutting off your beautiful roof, putting it in a flat bed and scrapping that Tennessee bus.
Sorry. If it ain't broke don't fix it and if it is broke don't fix it. Appears to be where you're at with this one. Hate to be the bearer of bad tidings.

No the oil in the top of the radiator doesn’t make sense, and yes there is coolant in the radiator, not just water. I’m familiar with blown head gaskets and the fluids looking murky. But my oil is clean and the antifreeze looks green with just some streaking of oil looking down in the filler neck.

As far as the codes, I’m just getting code 152, I don’t know where that sensor is, if anyone knows, I’m all ears.

As far as checking the problems prior to “taking possession” yes I knew the bus had some issues, yes I knew the transmission wasn’t the best, and at the time no I didn’t know everything about busses and large diesel engine’s. When I got it, I was already planning on putting a different transmission in it.

I posted on this forum for knowledgeable information from people that have worked on them, from individuals that seem to be willing to help others figure out there problems. I know that it would have been best to find a “perfect bus” with the exact drivetrain they are wanting, and with no mechanical issues. Depending on the individual’s circumstances, sometimes that’s not always an option, and sometimes you can’t find them.

I have what I have, and I’m more than willing to put the time in to make it right, by the time I’m done, it will be mechanically sound. I’m not going to scrap it because there’s problems, I’m used to life’s problems. I’m just looking for advice and information on how others have repaired theirs and hopefully in the future I will be able help others in the same way.

[cadillackid]

how much oil is in the top of the radiator.. with a crack in the radiator if you just have a little floaty oil streak it very well couyld be oil / dirt getting sucked in when the engine is cold.. the system goes under negative pressure when you first start it cold and take off.. if theres oily residue on the crack.. its going to suck a wee bit in each time.. and of course that will float when the bus sits. just a thought anyway. you dont always get chocolate milk..



one thing I didnt think of as far as the oil on the ground is could it be powered steering fluid? the power steering pump on these engines is gear drtivern.. many people install Automatic trans fluid in their Power steering system.. so a reddish brown oil leak somewhat near the timing cover could be power steering..

[ol trunt]

OP I appreciate your positive attitude especially when you are being subjected to all of us armchair quaterbacks. Good luck and don't give up on us!
Jack

[JT20]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

how much oil is in the top of the radiator.. with a crack in the radiator if you just have a little floaty oil streak it very well couyld be oil / dirt getting sucked in when the engine is cold.. the system goes under negative pressure when you first start it cold and take off.. if theres oily residue on the crack.. its going to suck a wee bit in each time.. and of course that will float when the bus sits. just a thought anyway. you dont always get chocolate milk..



one thing I didnt think of as far as the oil on the ground is could it be powered steering fluid? the power steering pump on these engines is gear drtivern.. many people install Automatic trans fluid in their Power steering system.. so a reddish brown oil leak somewhat near the timing cover could be power steering..

The crack I saw was at the top of the radiator right at the upper hose, without pulling the rad it’s hard to tell. But yes, just a small amount of oil, just enough to fill the bottom of a shot glass. The only other leak I found while I had it under pressure was on the brass filler neck itself, where it has rubbed a tiny pinhole in it.

As far as the power steering, yes I believe it’s leaking some, and the fluid I saw at the bottom of the timing cover could have been power steering fluid, it was light colored the more I think about it, I will have to double check. The oil that I saw in the rad and on the inside of the cap was black as diesel oil. I added a picture of the oil that I saw, it was at the top and mainly on the cap.

Right now I’m waiting on a call back from LKQ on the transmission, they have some rebuilt ones, there expensive but I’m going to get one from them, has a warranty and they are just trying to get the prices together on the flywheel and other components I’m replacing.

Thanks everyone for all the help, it’s greatly appreciated!

[JT20]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

OP I appreciate your positive attitude especially when you are being subjected to all of us armchair quaterbacks. Good luck and don't give up on us!
Jack

Thanks, I’m trying to stay positive, I’m not going to let these things stop me from finishing what I started. A few years ago I took on putting a car back together that was wrecked it the front and rear, airbags ruined the dash and windshield, valves were stuck open in the head, front of the car had to be cut off. Some thought I was crazy but I finished it, replaced everything that was damaged, welded in a new front end and rear quarter panel, went through the engine. In the end it was better then before it was wrecked. I’m not going to quit on this either.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

if your radiator is brass and you have a torch then you can get silver or brass brazing rods to seal the cracks the hose connection and the fill neck are easy and you dont have to drain all the fluid out.
just enough to get it below the level of where you need to braze.