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Old 03-15-2020, 05:03 PM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: State College, PA
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Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas built Navistar
Engine: DT466e, international
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Rear pinion seal

1998 international Thomas built navistar rear pinion seal is leaking could anyone give me a clue where to start and cost? Thanks in advance 🤙
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Old 03-15-2020, 09:09 PM   #2
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Year: 1935
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Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Start cheap? Remove rear pinion input flange, remove and replace rear diffrerential seal, reinstall flange and hope for the best.

Best practice? Disassemble differential, inspect bearings and races on pinion replacing parts as necessary, replace crush sleeve (if so equipped) and rear seal, torque to specs and run down the road.

Doing it right yourself, $100-$150 dollars for parts--add $2-3 hundred dollars for someone else to do it for you.
Jack
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:46 AM   #3
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Join Date: May 2018
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Year: 1954
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what i was taught

using some way of marking the nut and the pinion shaft. I used a punch. one dot on the nut and matching dot on the shaft. unscrew the nut. replace the seal, screw the nut back on... tighten just a tiny tiny tiny bit more than where it was when you took it off.....

I left out the usual.. clean the dirt off and clean the parts......

some yokes, that is what the part is called that the U joint bolts to, some yokes that have splines all the way through will leak oil at splines and you need some sort of sealant on the splines.... I used grey permatex 599b to seal oil surfaces. do not coat the pinion shaft splines, but put a small amount on the yoke just on the end that is under the nut. other wise you might just basically glue the yoke on the pinion shaft you will have a hell of time pulling the yoke off, if you ever need to do so in the future.

avoid hammers on this job as far as anything to do with the yoke, nut parts.

maybe watch some videos of other people doing this first, if you are limited in experience doing this job.

in most cases, I would call this an hour long job.. IF this is a part that is rusted, stuck or damaged two hours.

If your rear end is damaged - pinion bearings bad... time and cost goes up from there.

william
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Old 03-16-2020, 03:51 PM   #4
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
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first figure out what make and model you have?
eaton,rockwell,meritor,spicer and on and on
model number XXXXXX.
for example? mine is an eaton model 16121.
then find a parts diagram so that you can get the correct pinion seal diameter and part number and then you can find a breakdown of procedures to replace it especially the correct procedure and torque rating.
the rear end in my old truck required me to use a torque wrench to read the number it took to take break the nut lose and after the new seal and crush washer then the torque rating of the nut install was 90% of removal torque rotate the wheels 10-20 times and torque it to the original removal torque.
but that was for mine every manufacturer is going to have there own recommended procedure and a lot of people are going to say i did mine like this and didnt have any issues and that might have worked for them but might not necessarily work for your rear axle.
finding the correct seal diameter is a must and truth be known you dont know if yours has ever been replaced before and if it is the correct one.
so pulling it and just going to the store and saying give me another one of these might be an easy approach but might not be the correct one and you are doing it again in a few days,weeks?
better to find the specs for what you have and at least try to match part numbers.
just some advice
good luck
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Old 03-17-2020, 12:23 AM   #5
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: iowa
Posts: 344
Year: 1998
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Engine: 3116 catapillar
Rated Cap: formerly 71 now 2 or 4
if you see a grove on the yoke from the seal get a speedy sleeve for the yoke or a double lip seal
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