Remove bearing race from hub

[Sp6saz]

Hi, everyone 2006 international ce 300 school bus any tips tricks for removing wheel bearing race from hub thanks in advance

[Booyah45828]

Cold chisel and a hammer, they make them in different lengths, so get one that's long enough and use a visegrip to hold it instead of your hand. Use the biggest hammer that you can safely and efficiently handle, and then work your way around giving smacks every 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn until it pops out.

[somewhereinusa]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Cold chisel and a hammer, they make them in different lengths, so get one that's long enough and use a visegrip to hold it instead of your hand. Use the biggest hammer that you can safely and efficiently handle, and then work your way around giving smacks every 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn until it pops out.

What he said but, I use a drift, will work better than a chisel and won't mess up the chisel. Something like these. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-82...36924526&psc=1

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Cold chisel and a hammer, they make them in different lengths, so get one that's long enough and use a visegrip to hold it instead of your hand. Use the biggest hammer that you can safely and efficiently handle, and then work your way around giving smacks every 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn until it pops out.

Yup I was looking for some magical advice so old school is the only way. How much you think a shop might charge off I bring them the hub just to take them out and press in the new

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

What he said but, I use a drift, will work better than a chisel and won't mess up the chisel. Something like these. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-82...36924526&psc=1

Thanks for the link I think I have a long chisel type no long punches though I already broke them all thanks for the help I appreciate it.

[Booyah45828]

I prefer chisels, unless the drift punch is ground at an angle to keep it on the cup you're hammering out.

The magical advice is using a bearing cup remover with an H-frame press. An auto-centered machine shop might have something, or a larger sized truck dealer might have one as well. We don't have such luxuries, so old fashioned is how I do it. If it's stubborn, you might have to re-sharpen the chisel a few times. Don't make it too sharp that it cuts into the hub though.

If you're good with an acetylene torch, I've seen guys cut a slot through the cup, which after cooling will allow the cup to fall right out. I've never tried it, though, for fear of ruining the hub.

[Booyah45828]

And I can't stress enough how much easier it is with a bigger hammer. We've got a 10 lb sledge with a short handle I'll use sometimes(hence the vise grip to hold it). But if you can't handle it or hang onto it, it's more of a liability for injury.

If all you have is a hobby style claw hammer, I'm afraid you're wasting your time.

[sportyrick]

If you have a welder then run a couple of passes on the inside of it, flip it over and go get a cup of coffee, it will fall out in about 5 or ten min. If not then it will tap out easily. Be sure to clean out the hub very well because you introduced weld bb's into it. Put the race in the freezer overnite and it will go in easily using a drift punch while working around the perimeter.

[cadillackid]

I use a Puller....tool made for the job and it works great.... also can install as well (no press required)

[Tejon7]

EZRider359 on YouTube makes some really good diy truck maintenance videos. There's one where he shows some bearing job tips like the welding trick sportyrick mentioned.
https://youtu.be/tXBuAh8lZI0
My bus is in the shop now getting new bearings and races. I wanted to try it myself, but lack of time and only a dirt lot for a workspace changed my mind.

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by Tejon7

EZRider359 on YouTube makes some really good diy truck maintenance videos. There's one where he shows some bearing job tips like the welding trick sportyrick mentioned.
https://youtu.be/tXBuAh8lZI0
My bus is in the shop now getting new bearings and races. I wanted to try it myself, but lack of time and only a dirt lot for a workspace changed my mind.

Did mine in dirt driveway wasn't hard only fear itself was stopping me never did a full size bus before
I used a 3/4" wide × 8" long cold chisel who's tip was dull and blunt from years of me pounding stuff and a 3 pound Sledge hammer. They came right out... then I took my grinder to the old races side and ground them down all the way around till they dropped right in the hole they were in loosely and I ground a notch on each side of them to be able to knock out pry them out just in case they got stuck. I used my 3 1/2" spindle nut socket on the outer race on top of my home made tool to drive in the new race and on the inner race I used the Sledge hammer sideways across my home made tool to drive that race in.

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I use a Puller....tool made for the job and it works great.... also can install as well (no press required)

Ended up using a 8" × 1" dull cold chisel and a 3 pound Sledge came out easy... having trouble locating the proper puller was the issue. I ground down the old races till they dropped in loose and used those to drive in the new race. All seems well. Thanks to you guys for moral support to keep going. I posted another thread with question of whether an over filled differential could have blown my wheel seal as after leaking and ruining my rear brake shoes and me working on it and losing oil it still leaks out of the fill plug I'm amazed it was this over filled and wonder what the school district was thinking wouldn't this heat up expand and blow seals ???

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by sportyrick

If you have a welder then run a couple of passes on the inside of it, flip it over and go get a cup of coffee, it will fall out in about 5 or ten min. If not then it will tap out easily. Be sure to clean out the hub very well because you introduced weld bb's into it. Put the race in the freezer overnite and it will go in easily using a drift punch while working around the perimeter.

My brother has a welder and his skills are such that he could do this I would end up welding the race to the hub... ha ha.

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

And I can't stress enough how much easier it is with a bigger hammer. We've got a 10 lb sledge with a short handle I'll use sometimes(hence the vise grip to hold it). But if you can't handle it or hang onto it, it's more of a liability for injury.

If all you have is a hobby style claw hammer, I'm afraid you're wasting your time.

Ended up using cold chisel and 3 pound short handle Sledge hammer came right out then ground down old race till it dropped in hole loose and used that to drive in New races.

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

I prefer chisels, unless the drift punch is ground at an angle to keep it on the cup you're hammering out.

The magical advice is using a bearing cup remover with an H-frame press. An auto-centered machine shop might have something, or a larger sized truck dealer might have one as well. We don't have such luxuries, so old fashioned is how I do it. If it's stubborn, you might have to re-sharpen the chisel a few times. Don't make it too sharp that it cuts into the hub though.

If you're good with an acetylene torch, I've seen guys cut a slot through the cup, which after cooling will allow the cup to fall right out. I've never tried it, though, for fear of ruining the hub.

Yup got it out with chisel and 3 pound Sledge ground down old races to use to bang in new ones

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Cold chisel and a hammer, they make them in different lengths, so get one that's long enough and use a visegrip to hold it instead of your hand. Use the biggest hammer that you can safely and efficiently handle, and then work your way around giving smacks every 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn until it pops out.

Thanks got them out like you said was easy

[Booyah45828]

Overfilling "shouldn't" cause any seals to blow. I say shouldn't because if you fill it to the top of the housing, it will, but if it's a quart or two high it likely won't be an issue. There is a vent on the axle that should release any pressure difference created through heat or cooling, and often times I'll see this plugged with rust or dirt, causing the seals to blow out. Seals can leak due to bad bearings as well.

Tough break that your shoes got soaked and ruined. There's no way to clean them AFAIK, only replacement.

[Sp6saz]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Overfilling "shouldn't" cause any seals to blow. I say shouldn't because if you fill it to the top of the housing, it will, but if it's a quart or two high it likely won't be an issue. There is a vent on the axle that should release any pressure difference created through heat or cooling, and often times I'll see this plugged with rust or dirt, causing the seals to blow out. Seals can leak due to bad bearings as well.

Tough break that your shoes got soaked and ruined. There's no way to clean them AFAIK, only replacement.

Yup just finishing replacing all shoes and bearings on side leaking along with new seal. Hopefully it's all set once i finish. Fingers crossed replaced shoes on opposite side as well while I'm at it

[magnakansas]

acetone, coleman fuel, something like that, paint reducer

i have given brake shoes a bath to clean off gear oil..... in a pinch an not much money...... i learned it from the volkswagen idiots guide

william

[Booyah45828]

If it's a coating or sprayed on, you can clean it. If it's soaked in, you can't.