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Old 02-10-2017, 03:36 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Removed heaters - now DT466E overheats in 2 miles

Hello, got a bit of a problem.

I removed my 2 rear heaters and looped the lines at the driver's heater core. I topped off the coolant and parked it on a hill to try and bleed any air out of the system. I then took it for a quick test drive. I could watch the temp needle climb to 210 as I accelerated. Not even 2 miles down the road the alarm came on and the temperature rose to 235 before I was able to pull over safely.

Here's what I know:
- Top and bottom rad hoses are hot. Top started out hotter than the bottom, then they both got REALLY hot with no temp difference.
- 2 hose valves are open on the coolant lines that lead to the heater cores.
- Coolant is flowing through the rear heater bypass I created (as evidenced by a leak I fixed) but this coolant never gets hot. Even with the engine overheated, the coolant lines are stone cold.
- Nothing else has been done to the engine or supporting systems since I parked it to start the conversion.
- I started the bus once after some electrical work and let it idle for a few minutes. I did NOT have the heater hoses looped at this time. When I shut the bus down I could hear some gurgling for a few seconds through the open hose.

- Do I maybe have an air lock in the system? How else can I troubleshoot this?

Thanks!

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Old 02-10-2017, 07:14 PM   #2
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some thoughts

Howdy! I'm one step behind you (just pulled my heaters and rerouted the lines), but haven't refilled with coolant yet. In my "research" (lots of YouTube videos), it looks like you've gotta keep adding coolant after cutting lines and draining anything. Air will get trapped in the system. So maybe that's the issue?

Other than that, I'm wondering if your loop/reroute has a kink or something?
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:16 PM   #3
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(one more half-baked thought)

Did you start it up and keep adding coolant, while running, until the radiator was topped off? That's what all my YouTube idols were doing
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:58 AM   #4
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It sounds as if you have a vapor lock in the system that is not allowing the coolant to flow freely through the whole system.

When you broke into the system a lot of coolant that was in the system that was not eliminated most likely leaked out leaving you with air pockets.

Parking on a hill will help but opening bleeders on heater cores will work a lot faster.

You don't mention how much coolant you had to add after you got the loop all hooked up. If you didn't add at least 2 gallons of coolant I would say you are not close to full of coolant.

You may have to start at the engine and crack open the heater coolant lines at every joint and heater core along the line in order to get all of the air out.

It could be worse. I had to do a total system drain to fix a major leak in my Setra motorcoach. IIRC it took 46 gallons to fill it all back up. There were 22 different heater/defroster units that I had to bleed the air out of before I finally was able to get hot water up to the driver.

Good luck!
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Old 02-12-2017, 05:27 PM   #5
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Bleeding Instructions? Or Hints?

Soooo, you said you bleeded the heaters. I'm guessing you mean you got the air out of the lines. How did you bleed them? Simple access valves or something?
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Old 02-12-2017, 06:00 PM   #6
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I found one bleeder valve at the bottom of the radiator. I opened it and let it drain into a bucket with the engine running for about 10 minutes. Didn't see any bubbles or spurts out the valve. Can't locate any other valves. Currently looking for a manual for my bus and engine.
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Old 02-12-2017, 06:01 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I topped off the tank on the driver's side of the bus, but it doesn't seem to be entering the system. Just sitting in the tank
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowkee View Post
I found one bleeder valve at the bottom of the radiator. I opened it and let it drain into a bucket with the engine running for about 10 minutes. Didn't see any bubbles or spurts out the valve. Can't locate any other valves. Currently looking for a manual for my bus and engine.

Uhh, at the bottom of the radiator?

That's not a bleeder, that's a drain.
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Old 02-13-2017, 03:08 AM   #9
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Look at the heater cores. Somewhere on one side or the other there will be a bleeder screw. It will look like a bolt head, most likely a 7/16", with a screw head in the center. Loosen the bolt head a little and then screw the head of the screw out a little. Air and water should come out.
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Old 02-13-2017, 07:38 AM   #10
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got it!

Okay, that's super helpful. I'm gonna explore ... thanks!
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Old 02-15-2017, 10:32 AM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
Look at the heater cores. Somewhere on one side or the other there will be a bleeder screw. It will look like a bolt head, most likely a 7/16", with a screw head in the center. Loosen the bolt head a little and then screw the head of the screw out a little. Air and water should come out.
Thank you for the description! Someone also told me there could be a bleed screw on the head. Here's a picture, is that is?

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Old 02-15-2017, 03:35 PM   #12
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Engine: DT466E Allison 3000
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In terms of finding a manual that tells you about the auxiliary systems such as heat, good luck. I have service, troubleshooting, and diagnostic manuals for the 466e, but they only cover the engine itself

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Old 02-15-2017, 04:24 PM   #13
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bluebird, thomas, AmTran / IC have a chance at getting manuals from the body manufacturer of the bus.... since those companies are still in business.. I know bluebird has been helpful with mine.
-Christopher
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:25 PM   #14
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bluebird, thomas, AmTran / IC have a chance at getting manuals from the body manufacturer of the bus.... since those companies are still in business.. I know bluebird has been helpful with mine.
-Christopher
I think I tried calling IC for my amtran but had no luck

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Old 02-15-2017, 05:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowkee View Post
Hello, got a bit of a problem.

I removed my 2 rear heaters and looped the lines at the driver's heater core. I topped off the coolant and parked it on a hill to try and bleed any air out of the system. I then took it for a quick test drive. I could watch the temp needle climb to 210 as I accelerated. Not even 2 miles down the road the alarm came on and the temperature rose to 235 before I was able to pull over safely.

Here's what I know:
- Top and bottom rad hoses are hot. Top started out hotter than the bottom, then they both got REALLY hot with no temp difference.
- 2 hose valves are open on the coolant lines that lead to the heater cores.
- Coolant is flowing through the rear heater bypass I created (as evidenced by a leak I fixed) but this coolant never gets hot. Even with the engine overheated, the coolant lines are stone cold.
- Nothing else has been done to the engine or supporting systems since I parked it to start the conversion.
- I started the bus once after some electrical work and let it idle for a few minutes. I did NOT have the heater hoses looped at this time. When I shut the bus down I could hear some gurgling for a few seconds through the open hose.

- Do I maybe have an air lock in the system? How else can I troubleshoot this?

Thanks!
If you know someone with a vacuum filler for coolant systems, that will make it very easy to get rid of those pesky Air pockets, as well as alert you to any leaks. One brand is airlift I believe.

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Old 02-15-2017, 07:29 PM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Looks like I got it fixed!

I unscrewed some bolts on the radiator cover and took it off. That's where I discovered the pressure cap on the side of the radiator... derp. I filled it with a gallon of Fleet Charge and a little over a gallon of distilled water before the tube was full. Parked it on a hill for 30 minutes with the pressure cap loose. I then drove it around for a few miles. It got up to 190 going up a hill, which I'm not too impressed with, but it didn't overheat. When I parked it the fill tube by the radiator looked empty again. I'm going to try adding more Fleet Charge and water when I fire it up to go to the truck wash tonight. Got to spray down my floors before painting.

So, apparently the tank on the driver's side that says "engine coolant only" is NOT where you fill it. Is that the surge tank?
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowkee View Post
Looks like I got it fixed!

I unscrewed some bolts on the radiator cover and took it off. That's where I discovered the pressure cap on the side of the radiator... derp. I filled it with a gallon of Fleet Charge and a little over a gallon of distilled water before the tube was full. Parked it on a hill for 30 minutes with the pressure cap loose. I then drove it around for a few miles. It got up to 190 going up a hill, which I'm not too impressed with, but it didn't overheat. When I parked it the fill tube by the radiator looked empty again. I'm going to try adding more Fleet Charge and water when I fire it up to go to the truck wash tonight. Got to spray down my floors before painting.

So, apparently the tank on the driver's side that says "engine coolant only" is NOT where you fill it. Is that the surge tank?
Yes the small tank should be overflow

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Old 02-15-2017, 07:58 PM   #18
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Engine: DTA360 / MT643
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190 is normal for a DT-466.. the thermostats are ewither 180 or 190 depending on the year... so its always going to run at that range..
-Christopher
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