T444E Cranks but Won't Start

[TheNewGuy]

I recently bought a 1999 International T444E thats cranks and sounds like it wants to start but won't. The best I've found is possibly the wiring cause they're were rats nests all through the engine bay. I've checked the air filter and the hose attached as far as I could see so I don't believe it the intake. So my next best guess is its not getting enough fuel. It has all of the fluids and a good charge. New to Diesels and School Buses so if anyone has any advice its very appreciated.

[nikitis]

Describe in text the exact sounds you hear.



Is it like a Click up by the drivers side then an electric buzzing type of noise.


Or is it like a click up by the drivers side and you hear the starter engage turning the engine over but the engine isn't popping off?

[TheNewGuy]

It gets really close to starting but then loses power is what it sounds like, but the more you try the less it wants to start.

[cadillackid]

sounds like a fueling issue to me... there is a fuel pressure test point right up by the fuel bowl. its a mechanical pump so needle bounce on a gage is normal but should bop up and down in the 20-40 range to start..



could be glowplugs but generally with bad glowplug relay or harness it will want to start more the longer you crank.. however if the batteries start to get low the computer will not fire the injectors.. these engines like fast cranking..


if you turn your key to on but not try and start does your WARN light come on and go off? does it come on and stay on?



if it stays on there may be some codes set which can help diagnose electrical issues..

[TheNewGuy]

Yeah the glow plugs seem to work not for sure, but the light kicks on and of after about 20 seconds. I could see a fuel issue being the problem but equally the wiring because of the mice. So order a computer to test for codes and check its getting fuel?

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by TheNewGuy

Yeah the glow plugs seem to work not for sure, but the light kicks on and of after about 20 seconds. I could see a fuel issue being the problem but equally the wiring because of the mice. So order a computer to test for codes and check its getting fuel?

Just because the light comes on the dash does not necessarily mean the glow plug circuit is working. Glow plug selinoid is on your right side on top of the engine. One large post is battery power. The other large post is power to the glow plugs. There should be two small posts on the selinoid. Put a test light jump across the two small posts. At key on the test light should light up. Then use test light and determine which one of the large posts are battery power. When that's figured out you put the test light on the other post and see if it lights up once you key on. You can test the whole glow plug circuit with an amp meter on the battery supply to the glow plug circuit. Should be a larger wire. You can even give the large cable a wiggle test, if the glow plug selinoid is burnt inside the large posts may just break off. Just don't be yanking the wiring with force. Be smart about it.

Fuel pressure is another cause, low pressure could be a chewed up fuel line by your mouse. Another check as well would be pulling the fuel filter and crank the engine to see if the bowl fills up with fuel. That is flow only though, still check pressure as listed.

Another check is camshaft position sensor. They are cheap and easy to swap out, even if that does not fix it, good to hang on as a spare. It's the only sensor on the engine that provides a timing signal to the ECM for injection timing.

Next check, IPR, otherwise known as the injection pressure controls regulator. This threads into your HPOP also known as the high pressure oil pump. This is located in the "V" of the engine toward the front. There is a little nut on the backside of the regulator. They can back off and the coil can become loose impacting the operation of the regulator.

You have the sensor for the IPR found on the left cylinder head. It's a 3 wire plug. Just unplug it for diagnosing purposes. This should revert the ECM to a default reading programmed in for an open circuit condition.

From there if it's cranking you need a good strong set of batteries, just as someone else had suggested.

While cranking you may see white smoke from tail pipe, if you do then I would go back to the glow plug circuit but it would take alot of cranking. The exhaust system is long.

If that is all good, pull plugs at the valve cover gaskets. Inspect and do a smell test to see if they are burnt or smell burnt. Then pull covers and replace cover gaskets and under cover wire harness.

Another thing you could do, if you have a block heater you can plug it in to pre-warm the engine. If it starts then you go back to either a poor operating glow plug system or a worn out engine.


At this point if everything looks good. Pull the scanner. Scanner will need to see RPM's and I believe 500psi HPOP oil pressure for the injectors.

That's a start....