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Old 01-14-2023, 04:28 PM   #1
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T444e losing power dies

Hi. I have a 96 t444e. It is the 4th 7.3L engine I have owned and am familiar. I am leaking oil slowly at front of valley. I recently lost power, got worse then died once oil / engine is warm. Re started limped home. I have had warn engine light on since I bought it. MAP sensor out of range. I replaced map and cleaned tube, still have same Warn Engine code after clearing it.

1. any ideas on map?
2. do you think i should replace hpop first? 271k miles on her.

Thanks

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Old 01-15-2023, 12:54 AM   #2
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Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,607
Year: 1996
Coachwork: AmTran (Now Navistar)
Engine: DT444E (7.3L) International
Rated Cap: 31,800 pounds
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Originally Posted by IntlHarvistar View Post
Hi. I have a 96 t444e. It is the 4th 7.3L engine I have owned and am familiar. I am leaking oil slowly at front of valley. I recently lost power, got worse then died once oil / engine is warm. Re started limped home. I have had warn engine light on since I bought it. MAP sensor out of range. I replaced map and cleaned tube, still have same Warn Engine code after clearing it.

1. any ideas on map?
2. do you think i should replace hpop first? 271k miles on her.


Thanks

FIRST RULE OF TROUBLESHOOTING:
DO NOT throw parts at problems.


If the MAP sensor is out of range the fuel mixture cannot be properly maintained. This alone can cause all manner of running issues including loss of power, engine stoppage, failure to start, and more.


Determine the cause of the MAP code (test and inspect the sensor and the wiring to it) and correct THAT problem first.


As for the HPOP,..... AFTER you resolve the MAP code, if yo still have issues, TEST the HPOP and inspect it. If it fails, THEN you would replace it.


Parts failures have two main times that they fail.... when they are very old (as in beyond design lifespan) and when brand new. Throwing new parts at a problem without having diagnosed that part as having failed introduces additional potential points of failure into the equation. Just troubleshooting, by disconnecting and connecting plugs and other connections introduces potential failure points. In the end, you may well find that the initial problem was solved by one of the parts thrown at an issue but that you had introduced some other failure point before throwing that part at it.... such as a bad out of the box component that you threw first.
If you're troubleshooting a failure and, after throwing the latest part at the problem and the failure mode remains but symptoms have changed..... there's a good chance that one of the earlier parts introduced a failure mechanism (the part, it's wiring, or something displaced or damaged while replacing that part).
ALL THAT SAID..... there are failures and symptoms that an experienced mechanic will throw a part at because over the years it's the most common cause. For instance, a code indicating "gross evap system leak" will have the experienced mechanic IMMEDIATELY go to the fuel cap and check that it's on and also that it operates properly (the venting system). I don't know how many gross evap leaks I've repaired by putting the gas cap on or by replacing a bad one but it's A LOT.
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Old 01-17-2023, 10:08 AM   #3
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Location: CSRA Georgia
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Year: 1994
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford B-700
Engine: 12V 5.9
In a pickup, the 7.3 will kinda run with a bad fuel pump.

My 2001 F-250 has a framerail fuel pump, which failed and was why it was on Govdeals as 'blown motor.' Two batteries and a fuel pump later and it was back to Powerstrokin!

It started and ran on the trailer until I opened the engine fuel filter, breaking the siphon and then it would not restart.

When it is quiet, you should hear the fuel pump run briefly going to KEY ON. Trace the fuel lines to the tank and somewhere there will be a pump. It should make some noise.

If no pump noise, you can open up that filter housing, remove the filter, and turn on your key to check for fuel flow from the pump. There may be a drain lever on the back of that filter housing. If the housing stays dry, no fuel pump. This can also be caused by a rubbed/cut wire, blown fuse etc, so you'd need to check for 12V at the fuel pump.

Powerstrokes like clean Motorcraft diesel oil, Motorcraft oil filters, and clean fuel.

Your oil leak may be completely unrelated to the current problem.

Keep us posted OP, that parts cannon can wear a wallet out fast!
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Old 01-29-2023, 07:41 AM   #4
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Low oil. Add oil and will come out of limp mode. Had this happen on mine that was burning a gallon of oil every 100 miles. My fix sold it.
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Old 02-20-2023, 09:37 AM   #5
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oil level is good
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Old 03-05-2023, 01:56 PM   #6
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Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Calgary,AB, Canada
Posts: 42
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Jimmy/Corbeil
Chassis: 96 International 3800
Engine: T444E, AT545
Rated Cap: 36
First, is it hard starting? Crank over your engine. There should be white clouds coming out the tailpipe. That's unburned fuel. Means your fuel pump is working. I highly suspect yours is about to die. Its a bitch getting the bolts undone, be patient. Gonna have to take the turbo off. don't forget to do all new seals with the fuel lines to the pump. Don't skimp, it will leak.
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