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Old 09-26-2021, 06:32 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I’ve used SKF brute force u joints for years I like them and they don’t seem to break . The big thing is make sure you get u joints with a grease zero so you can grease them. Part of greasing is not just lubrications but pushing out the dirt from the inside so I am not a fan of permanent lube u joints
When installing the new U-Joint does it matter what orientation it's in? I mean should the grease zerk be on the right, left, doesn't matter? Do I have to flip the UJ or sit it in the caps a certain way or anything like that?

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Old 09-26-2021, 06:55 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27 View Post
When installing the new U-Joint does it matter what orientation it's in? I mean should the grease zerk be on the right, left, doesn't matter? Do I have to flip the UJ or sit it in the caps a certain way or anything like that?
It's constantly turning, it doesn't know where it's zirc is.
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Old 09-26-2021, 08:01 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
It's constantly turning, it doesn't know where it's zirc is.
I figured. Just thought I'd make sure, never know.

When I got it back started after a single blown fuse killed the engine I looked under the bus to see if anything was spinning I noticed the the spline was slowly spinning around. I don't know if that's normal or because of vibration from the engine running. Will this put anything out of phase? I'm assuming not since I'll have to line up the piece that was removed with the rest of the driveshaft. Just wanna make sure. I just went under there and tried to see if I can spin it by hand and it's quite easy so I guess it was vibration.
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Old 09-27-2021, 08:41 AM   #44
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Put the zerk in a position so that you can grease it easily.

It doesn't really matter per se, but it makes it easier if you clock all the zerks in the same rotational location on the shaft. That way you can park the bus with the shaft in the right orientation and then grease them all without having to move it again. Also, you'll occasionally find a joint that doesn't allow easy access between it and the yoke to get a grease nozzle. If the zerk was flipped, that interference wouldn't occur. Typically, that's only a problem on smaller, automotive joints, and not your medium/heavy duty units.
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Old 10-02-2021, 07:35 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by rossvtaylor View Post
Yup, nothing special. Did they take out the whole thing? Or, as is more common, did they just unbolt it at the end where it connects to the differential (and then tie the driveshaft up to hang on something)? Hopefully they just undid the one end and you can just bolt it back in place. I'll try to go back and look at the photos more closely...

EDIT after looking at the pics: Yes, they pulled out the splined end of the expansion joint. Put a bit of grease inside the shaft opening and push it back into place, then bolt the universal joint back together with a bit of grease on the X parts.

As to the starting issue from earlier, that might be a loss of fuel prime? If there's any leak in any fuel line, which allows air to enter, then the fuel can drain back to the tank. In a front engine bus, this might be more likely if the front end is raised to tow it...maybe? I'm just guessing here.
In case you were interested, I got the bus back running. Turned out to be a single 40 amp fuse in the battery compartment connected to/along one of the battery cables
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Old 10-03-2021, 11:32 AM   #46
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If this is one driveshaft from the tranny to the rearend, there is no phasing to be done.
Look very closely at the splines, there might be one spot where a spline or two is "not there", not cut.
That means the drive shaft at spline end only goes on one way.
At the rear axle it will go on same as it was or 180 degrees from where it was.
If you examine the yoke on rearend and compare it to the cups on the u-joint carefully, you can usually tell by the patterns of stains and crud, nicks or scraps that match where the u-joint was on the yoke.

If impossible to tell, no big deal, it is a big heavy truck.
Not a high rpm formula one racecar.

P.S. I doubt that the tow truck driver after the other tow from the truck stop added any oil to the big ball thing unless you saw him doing it.
If it got towed before he came to your rescue, he likely went under there to untie the wired up end of driveshaft and reconnect it to the big ball thing called a rear axle pumpkin yoke. Being the tow driver before him only disconnected the rear end of driveshaft, and hung it to the frame vs removing it completely from under the bus.
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Old 10-03-2021, 12:20 PM   #47
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happy for you

Glad you found the fuse.... if you dont find why it blew... you are very likely to have to replace it again... keep spares.

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Old 10-06-2021, 09:59 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
Glad you found the fuse.... if you dont find why it blew... you are very likely to have to replace it again... keep spares.

william
Yes, I got some spares on hand. Met someone who's a diesel mechanic that used to work for the school district on buses or something like that. Says he knows all athe buses and will look in to getting me a wiring diagram for it.
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Old 10-06-2021, 11:16 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27 View Post
Yes, I got some spares on hand. Met someone who's a diesel mechanic that used to work for the school district on buses or something like that. Says he knows all athe buses and will look in to getting me a wiring diagram for it.
I have the same bus, ‘99 Amtran RE.
I posted lots of wiring diagrams in this thread.

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f49/a...ams-25055.html


Also that 40 amp fuse that popped in the battery compartment.
If that is your ECM fuse it would be a good idea to follow that wire and make sure it is not rubbing/ chafing somewhere and making a momentary short to ground.

That would be no fun on a trip and breaking down because of that.
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Old 10-06-2021, 02:46 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
If this is one driveshaft from the tranny to the rearend, there is no phasing to be done.
Look very closely at the splines, there might be one spot where a spline or two is "not there", not cut.
That means the drive shaft at spline end only goes on one way.
At the rear axle it will go on same as it was or 180 degrees from where it was.
If you examine the yoke on rearend and compare it to the cups on the u-joint carefully, you can usually tell by the patterns of stains and crud, nicks or scraps that match where the u-joint was on the yoke.

If impossible to tell, no big deal, it is a big heavy truck.
Not a high rpm formula one racecar.

P.S. I doubt that the tow truck driver after the other tow from the truck stop added any oil to the big ball thing unless you saw him doing it.
If it got towed before he came to your rescue, he likely went under there to untie the wired up end of driveshaft and reconnect it to the big ball thing called a rear axle pumpkin yoke. Being the tow driver before him only disconnected the rear end of driveshaft, and hung it to the frame vs removing it completely from under the bus.
I'm pretty sure it's multiple shafts (I think). I posted a vid of the whole thing if you want to confirm.

https://streamable.com/shor1n

Also, there's a few parts I was wondering if it was "necessary" to change. The center bearing and as one or two others suggested, the other U-Joints. I would eventually like to replace the others but don't have the time nor money really at the moment. Is it really necessary as far as U-joints? I mean, had the driveshaft never been removed the one I replaced never would have happened. Still would like to change them in the future

As for the center bearing, where the spline is, does that look bad like it needs replacing? Also, does the grease inside the female insert where the spline goes into get greased from the U-joints? Or should I put some in there? Was thinking about trying to clean it out and putting fresh grease inside, unless it's unnecessary.

Thanks.
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Old 10-06-2021, 02:49 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
I have the same bus, ‘99 Amtran RE.
I posted lots of wiring diagrams in this thread.

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f49/a...ams-25055.html


Also that 40 amp fuse that popped in the battery compartment.
If that is your ECM fuse it would be a good idea to follow that wire and make sure it is not rubbing/ chafing somewhere and making a momentary short to ground.

That would be no fun on a trip and breaking down because of that.
Thanks! We were trying to find the diagram. Was told it might be a ground wire that caused the engine to shut off/pop the fuse. Will look into this
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Old 10-07-2021, 10:08 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Absentee View Post
Be Smart, install new u joints prior to reassembling
Would you say it's really necessary to replace all u joints?
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Old 10-07-2021, 03:30 PM   #53
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easier to do them while the driveline is already out and you are at home or wherever and you have time rather than in a bind on the side of the road and no spare or tools.
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Old 10-07-2021, 03:50 PM   #54
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its probably not "absolutely necessary". but in my experience anytime ive ever disturbed older U-joints. . they didnt seem to last real long afterwords..



then again im a Fix-it before it breaks kind of guy.. id rather swap carrier bearings and U-joints in my comfy little storage place while the sun's out.. rather than on a snowy night alongside a freeway where no-one moves over..
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Old 10-07-2021, 08:49 PM   #55
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@Jolly Roger bus 223
@cadillackid

Note taken. Will eventually change them all, more likely in the near future since the u joints aren't really that much.

Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:01 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post

P.S. I doubt that the tow truck driver after the other tow from the truck stop added any oil to the big ball thing unless you saw him doing it.
If it got towed before he came to your rescue, he likely went under there to untie the wired up end of driveshaft and reconnect it to the big ball thing called a rear axle pumpkin yoke. Being the tow driver before him only disconnected the rear end
Forgot to mention I actually saw him put some kind of product in (I think) the pumpkin. The product had like a orange triangle like or cone shaped top. Wish I knew what it was called or were he poured it in.

He might have put connected the driveshaft back. Thinking back, I remember the tow company being assholes so it was probably tied up and before I got the tow guy to help me I couldn't get it started. The whole time I was trying to get it started they never told me they took the thing off. Makes sense. I remember the tow guy mentioning they took something off so they can tow it but don't remember if he had to reconnect himself or they did.
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Old 10-11-2021, 10:53 AM   #57
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Wanna thank you all for all the great tips.

Put the driveshaft back on and took it for a drive and there was no vibration, not that I could tell. It drove normal so I took it to a weigh station

I either accidentally put it on correctly, thank God, or it doesn't matter as far as the 180° rule, in my case anyway. I just lined it up/phased it as good as I could and put the bolts in place. Very relieved
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Old 10-11-2021, 01:49 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27 View Post
Wanna thank you all for all the great tips.

Put the driveshaft back on and took it for a drive and there was no vibration, not that I could tell. It drove normal so I took it to a weigh station

I either accidentally put it on correctly, thank God, or it doesn't matter as far as the 180° rule, in my case anyway. I just lined it up/phased it as good as I could and put the bolts in place. Very relieved
The driveshafts are spun and balanced separately from any vehicle.
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